Party Pilgrims - From Canterbury to Jerusalem

My Pilgrim's Heart

2010-01-19T19:17:00.001-08:00

The first product from the pilgrimage has come to fruition!

For those of you who loved the blog and for anyone out there searching the net for information on pilgrimages this is a must read. Steph has produced a beautiful account of her journey, both with me and with her husband, as she highlights the ups and downs of relationships and life's challenges.

The book can be purchased from all bookstores in Australia or online at

www.voyagermoon.com

Happy reading and stayed tuned for any further installments to the Party Pilgrim's library...

2008-09-15T01:21:00.000-07:00

Well...

Holly crap! I made it :) What started one mild spring evening with two friends downing a pint of ale in a bar a short stroll from Canterbury Cathedral finishes more than 6000kms and 18 months later with a small group of friends enjoying a Guinness in a small Irish pub in Jerusalem.

Apart from time and distance, what separates these two places is a multitude of experiences, some good, some bad, all of which contributed to making this one of the most challenging and fulfilling 18 months of my life.

My journey by foot has come to an end but the real journey continues as it always has...this is life. As many of you know Canterbury and Jerusalem were not locations chosen by me, nor do they hold any particular meaning for me. Rather they were presented to me, this is often the way life works...

All that I did was accept the challenge :)

And what an experience! This is the type of adventure I know will affect the rest of my life; the benefits will surely take some time to realize. I met some amazing people and experienced many breathtaking locations, I'd like to thank you all for sharing it with me, it meant a lot. I know some of you have been here since day one - cheers Niccu from Romania! I feel privileged that you and everyone else who's followed my pilgrimage took the time out of your own lives to participate in this journey with me. Thanks guys...

And then there's the other Party Pilgrims. Dan, whose adventurous spirit started this pilgrimage. Steph, my mother and solid walking companion for seven weeks. And Sabine, the crazy German woman who traveled half way around the world to participate without ever having met me. You guys are awesome and I know the bonds formed in those cold, desolate, hungry times will remain forever, I couldn't have asked for better walking companions! :)

One thing that failed to metamorphasize during the pilgrimage was a reason for doing it. The closest I come is...

Because I could!

And for me that is enough. I'm here to experience as much as life has to offer. Joy, happiness, fear, love, anger, desperation, loneliness, contentment, frustration, the list is endless, but a pilgrimage is an opportunity anyone can take to experience all that life has to offer in a very short period of time...

There are as many paths to God
as there are people on the planet...

I chose to walk...

Supporting MSF :)

2008-09-15T01:10:00.000-07:00

Even though I was happy completing my journey without a reason I'm going to take this opportunity to ask for support for a charity which promotes many of the same values I hold dear, Medecins Sans Frontieres. These guys are awesome and it would mean a lot to me if you could all spare a small sum and follow the link below to make an offering.

MSF

Also, I'd like to recognize a another organization which is helping to open up the world, Couchsurfing. If you have never heard of this sight take a look, the concept sounds unbelievable but I can vouch for the fact it is true to it's mission and it does work. There are literally hundreds of thousands of people opening their homes to strangers worldwide...

Go give it a go!

www.couchsurfing.com

For people who travel regularly I'm going to recommend my phone company Sim4Travel. Forget roaming fees and receive calls in over 50 countries for free!

www.sim4travel.com

And for great travel insurance for backpackers try these guys. World Nomads has insured me for this entire journey and I'm happy to recommend them. They are cheap and have friendly staff but the biggest draw-card is the fact you can start a policy after you have left your country of residence, something that is quite unique. If you are looking for travel insurance these guys are well worth a look...

www.worldnomads.com

Pilgrimage from East Jerusalem to Jerusalem!!! Woohooooooooo ;)

2008-09-12T03:25:00.000-07:00

"Hi, this is Chippy and Nay from HOTfm WA. It must be some ridiculously hour of the morning over there yeah?"

What the...?!?

As the haze starts to clear from my head I realize what's going on, the two chirpy callers are ringing for an interview :) I don't know what their producer feeds them for breakfast but to sound that good first thing in the morning is sickening. But thanks for thinking of me guys :)

Starting to drift back off my second wake up call comes in the way of 1000 Imams all yelling at once. Not since Istanbul have I heard so many voices competing for the airwaves.

Pleased there's daylight the next time I wake a rush of excitement rushes over me. This is it! Jerusalem here I come. Heading to the roof to get a look at my destination in the day I'm pleased with how close it looks...
Only four kilometers to go feet...

Father Roberto meets me for breakfast and for possibly my last "new experiences" of the road pours a big pot of coffee over my cornflakes. Tastes great though, cheers mate :)

Steph and Renee call wanting to meet up and join me for the last stretch. To save confusion I pick a big tower on top of the mount of Olives as the meeting place and set off.

Even the steep hill can't dampen my spirits and very step is a pleasure. Finding the tower is a mission though, it can be seen from all directions but not found :( A quick phone call and an alternative meeting place is all it takes before three very happy pilgrims set off for the old city.

It's strange how life works. Three years ago it was these same three pilgrims walking the Camino De Santiago together when we first met Dan, the guy who's idea is was to do this journey, It seems very right that this is how it's ending :)

Spotting the huge golden dome of the Rock and stopping briefly at the Gethsemane to gaze at the ancient olive trees where Jesus once sat it really hits me where I am. Jerusalem!

Lion's gate appears before us and I prepare for my big entrance...this is it, my journey is coming to a close :) The ancientness of the place is seeped into everything but the tourists are thick!

First stop is the wailing wall, after navigating the throng of mesmerized Jews I manage a little prayer and continue on towards the rock...

"What, it's closed!?! But it says here it is open till 14:30"

"Yes, but now it's Ramadan. It's closed"

"What time does it open tomorrow?"

"From seven thirty to eleven"

Oh well, tomorrow it is. But my pilgrimage will still finish tonight at the pub ;) I'm not dragging my backpack down here again tomorrow morning...

Two of Renee's friends, Quinton and Beverly, join us for the short walk to my third to last destination, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

What's a "Sepulchre" you may be wondering?

Don't know but rumor has it that this is the placed Jesus got nailed...to the cross that is :)

The place is packed and I have to laugh as a huge group of Russian pilgrims push and shove their way towards the entrance of an ancient wooden structure which is obviously the central point of interest in the place. Finally one of the priests looses it...

"Get back! Get back. Look where you are...are you animals?!?"

Renee's treat for finishing is a night in the King David hotel. This five star oasis is THE perfect place to put my feet up and relax....

Aaaaahhhhh... :)

As the afternoon draws to a close I have one final destination before I hang up my boots...the pub ;)

I couldn't think of a more appropriate place to conclude this adventure so making my way down to O'Connells Irish bar I waltz up to the counter and order a Guinness...

Beer never tasted so good...

:)

Pilgrimage from Jerico to East Jerusalem 07/09/08

2008-09-10T12:59:00.000-07:00

Another 4am alarm has me up and about before the sun, but knowing this is likely to be my second to last day I'm not bothered. Steph wishes me well and I head of into the empty streets just as the Imam starts up his call for prayer.

The money changers weren't open yesterday and the local ATM only spat out Jordanian Dinar so I don't have a Shekel to my name. Could be a slight problem if I get thirsty.

Spotting a shop owner I get to ask a question I've been dying to ask for more than 6000kms...

"Good morning. Is this the road to Jerusalem?" :)

Passing a big building check to see if it's a hotel. The armed guards lounging around the front give me a start by diving for their weapons. I suppose they don't see too many people walking around at this hour. The good news is I can see the sign, "Intercontinental". I'm in luck :)

"Good morning. What do you want?"

"I need to go change some money"

"Sorry, you can't. It's closed"

"It shouldn't be closed. I will just go and ask reception"

"No, I can't let you in. Wait here and I'll call"

"Sure"

A minute later he returns with bad news, they don't want to let me in :( Time to act like the arrogant white Westerner I am...

"Look mate, this is a five star hotel. Of course the reception is open. I've stayed at Intercontinental hotels all around the world and I know they can change my money. I'm going to talk to reception"

Walking off the security starts to yell and I think that out of all the places I could choose to storm a five star hotel with a backpack this is probably the worst. I have a slight paranoia in the back of my mind...

Will they really shoot me???

The security guard's getting more irate and I can here him start to chase me. Stepping up to the front door the little voice in my wins out and I pause to let him catch up. Turning with a big smile...

"Look, I'll be two minutes. Just let me talk to the receptionist"

He doesn't answer but it appears he isn't quite prepared to manhandle me out yet. Following me to the counter he stands close as I greet the guy behind the counter...

"Good morning. I need to change some money"

"Good morning. I'm afraid we can only change money for guests"
Fixing him with a hard gaze "Look mate. I understand you are not meant to change money but I also know you can. It is possible! Yesterday the money changers weren't open and the ATM doesn't give out Shekels. I'm walking to Jerusalem today and that's a very long way without being able to buy a drink. I really need to change some money"

Smiling broadly "Okay sir. How much would you like" :)

Perfect...

The security guard suddenly turns in to my new best friend and couldn't be more interested in my journey...or at least he pretends to be anyway ;)

Hitting the road and passing through the checkpoints without a fuss it's into no-man's land. An easy walk to the highway and there's nothing but desert as far as the eye can see.

From four hundred meters below sea level I know I have some climbing today, as the sun emerges from behind the Jordanian hills I start the slow process upwards. It's already hot and and now I'm really glad I began so early.

Intent on getting to the edge of Jerusalem today I make great time. The "sea level marker" comes and goes and by the time I need a rest I'm at 150m. Lying down in the shade of the road cutting, the only shade around for miles, I soon drift off only to wake a couple of hours later sweating and in the full force of the sun.

My water's getting low but I know I only had to make twenty kilometers before finding some facilities...can't be too much further. And it isn't, under an hour later I'm sitting in a great little cafe eating shakshuka, a typical Israeli dish made from eggs and tomato. Delicious :)

After a big rest I get back into it, making another four of five kilometers before staggering into another cafe and collapsing absolutely soaking in sweat. The owner looks slightly amused and a slightly unsure, but after finding out my story is extremely welcoming.

Emerging from the cafe a new man, the sign out the front cheers me up even more...

"Jerusalem 20"

Twenty kilometers to go! Unbelievable, that leaves ten to fifteen tops for the evening. With the slight breeze which has just started and the pleasant temperature the weather is perfect!

Hitting a fork in the highway I decide to take a risk. The road to the right indicates it leads to Jerusalem but from the map I saw yesterday the town to the left should be perfect for me to stop the night in.

My confidence isn't boosted by the first people I talk to...

"Where are you going?"

"Jerusalem"

"Wrong way! You can't go to Jerusalem this way. It's forbidden...forbidden!"

"But for a foreigner is it okay?"

"No, impossible! You have to catch a bus and go back to the highway"

I know I have to pass the dreaded separation wall at some stage and it must be getting close. If I'm going to have trouble I'd prefer to pass today and not have to worry about it tomorrow. My main concern though is the feel of the area I'm in isn't good and it will soon be dark.

As the sun disappears so do all the people, all home to feast with their families. Out of the blue a big church appears...Bingo!!! :) It's been a while since I slept in a religious establishment and I couldn't think of a better place to spend my last night. After knocking a couple of times to get some attention I start to walk away but the creak of the door draws me back. A middle aged priest is there to greet me but is sad to inform me the place is a nunnery and no men can stay overnight. Pointing down the road he lists a couple of other places I might be able to try.

Slowly people start returning to the streets and I'm pleased the tension in the air has all but disappeared. It's amazing what a little bit of food, nicotine and coffee can do for a person ;)

All the churches are closed and none of the mosques will take me, with no hotels in town I'm starting to feel a bit desperate. Following another guys directions I finally come face to face with the wall. And what a sight! One of the more unfortunate uses of modern day engineering...the separation barrier.

Stretching without an entrance as far as I can see in both directions I decide to make my way north. At least if I can't get through I will have to hit the highway at some stage. Without a road I'm sometimes walking through olive groves, sometimes through alleys and sometimes climbing over big rocks all the while with this monstrous slab of cement and barbed wire to my left...and all the while feeling very vulnerable. Starting to get a bit stressed I'm not sure what to do, I don't really want to camp here but I'm running out of options.

An old guy spots me and asks what I'm doing...

"Trying to get to Jerusalem...but I can't find a door through the wall. Is there a door anywhere?"

"Yes, of course. Down that way" Pointing in the direction I've come from "Here, I'll show you"

The guy speaks great English and I'm relieved he seems to know what he's on about. Leading back to a point 100m south of where I started a small gap appears guarded by some soldiers. I call out to the guy in the watchtower...

"Hey mate, what's the chance of me getting though here?"

"Sorry, what?"

"Is there any chance of me getting through here?"

"You want to get through?"

"Yes, into Jerusalem"

Waving me through and giving me a look like I'm slightly mad "Of course, go, go!"

After a quick search of my bag the soldiers on the other side let me past. So here I am! I'm in Jerusalem!!! What a feeling :)

Right next to the checkpoint is a gate to a big church. Pressing the buzzer I'm pleased when thirty seconds later the gate glides silently open. A few priests greet me on the stairs and after hearing what I'm up to are more than happy to put me up for the night. Champions!

Setting myself up Father Roberto appears and asks if I want to have a look on the roof. I'm pretty tired but why not. Winding my way up I'm stocked with the view...there in front of me are the lights of Central Jerusalem!

Only four kilometers to go...

:)

Pilgrimage from King Hussein Bridge to Jerico 06/09/08

2008-09-10T01:21:00.000-07:00

Steph's call to let me know she's leaving wakes me at six. the taxi driver explained to her they only let a set amount of people through each day so we are keen to get in early.

I only just manage to pack up my gear in time, as I sit down on the roadside a big van screeches to a halt next to me...

"Shit, you were quick!"

Pointing to the driver "Tell me about it" :)

Five minutes later I'm back at the bridge, surprised there's already a line up of cars. The good thing about being on foot is it doesn't matter, we're straight to the front.

The place is empty and we find out the immigration office, for people without their own vehicles, doesn't open till eight. We have an hour to wait. One of the cops takes pity on us and lets us sit in his office, happy to chat before the other workers start arriving.

Without too much fuss we're on the bus heading over the bridge and into Israel...

Yes, that's right...BUS! Once again I can't walk across the border, but this one I can understand ;)

Chaos greets us on the other side with noone knowing what's going on anywhere. Finally figuring out their system, which could have saved us 20 minutes with one simple sign, we manage to get through to the Israeli immigration. Now the fun begins...

Steph gets straight through but with two trips to Lebanon and five months in Syria during the last year I'm obviously going to have some problems. Taking a seat a young guy comes over with my passport in hand...

"So Ben, you like to travel?"

"Yes"

"Why did you not fill out this form completely with the countries you visited before here?"

"Because I've just walked from England there's not enough space to list them all" I give him all the details of my pilgrimage including studying in Syria and give him my blog address so he can check for himself...

"You have been to Lebanon twice! Why?"

"Once skiing, once walking through"

"When you were in Syria did you have friends take you around to see anything?"

Laughing "Yes, I have Syrian friends and yes, sometimes we went sightseeing"

"And after you finish in Jerusalem where will you go?"

"Don't know...maybe Yemen"

"Yemen!!!"

"Yes, I need some time out and want somewhere that's cheap"

Shaking his head with a slightly bemused smile he instructs me to wait and leaves me to it. So I wait, and wait, and wait...but I'm not the only one there's a whole seated area designated for people like me. I Chilean woman sits next to me...

"I can't believe it! They're all kids. All of them!"

Which is true. I can't see anyone who looks over twenty five in the whole office, no wonder there's such chaos. And the really amusing thing are the guys doing security. Wearing civilian clothes and walking around toting their M-16s like thugs it's quite a sight.

Finally I get the "okay", meet Steph on the other side and try to work out a town to meet up. Asking at the taxi office the guys not impressed...

Barking at us "What, you want to go to Jerico!?! It's Palestinian!!! What will you do there"

Shrugging "Eat lunch"

I'm glad he doesn't have anything to say to that :) Steph books a bus ticket and I set off, not impressed it's now 11:30 and super hot. One of the gun toting teenagers cuts me off as I'm leaving...

"What are you doing?"

"Walking to Jerusalem"

"You can't do that!"

"Of course I can, I've just walked from England" :)

"Nah, I don't believe you. Your legs are too skinny!"

Laughing "They may be skinny but they got me this far"

"I'm just kidding, but you can't walk through here. It's military for the next two kilometers. You can get a taxi to the edge though"

"How much will that cost?"

"About seventeen dollars"

"Seventeen dollars!!! How can it be seventeen dollars for two kilometers"

Shrugging "That's just what they charge. Good luck"

Luckily they only charge me ten dollars but still, $5/km crazy anywhere in the world! :) Hopping off in the middle of nowhere I set off towards Jerico. The first thing to hit me, well second after the heat, is the stillness. The slight purr of a tractor can be heard in the distance and apart from a bird chirping overhead the only other sound is the squeaking of my backpack. All alone and covered in sweat I start to wonder if this is total madness.

What the fuck is that!?!

A huge yellow gate appears across the road, this must be one on the Israeli checkpoints. Approaching cautiously there's not a soul to be seen...

I stop, wait, call out. No response...

I walk around the side to see if it's possible to bypass it only to be met with a huge wall of cement and barbed wire...

Hmmmm...

Returning back to the gate I spot a small intercom. I press the button imagining a doorbell ringing out through Jerico...

The gate glides silently open. Looking around there's still noone to be seen. Thirty meters later I make out some soldiers behind a thick layer of bullet proof glass, which some kind individuals took upon themselves to test...just to ensure they are safe inside I'm sure :)

Now inside Palestinian controlled territory people start appearing. I'm surprised with the carefree way I'm greeted, the enthusiasm shown by the other Arab countries I've passed through has disappeared. They are still extremely friendly yet greet me with nothing more than a wave before going back to what they are doing. I suppose they've seen it all before.

Dragging myself into the center of town a locate Steph and after a quick discussion find the "oldest hotel in the West Bank"...well, according to the owners anyway. Hisham Palace is way over priced for what it is but with the heat outside we can't be bothered searching for anything else.

Much to our relief Ramadan ends and we head to the square for dinner. After a quick stint on the net we make our way back to the hotel and I psych myself up for my walk to the edge of Jerusalem starting tomorrow morning... :)

Pilgrimage from Middle of Nowhere to the King Hussein Bridge 05/09/08

2008-09-10T01:17:00.001-07:00

After a restless night Steph's up at first light...

"We're short of water, we should get going before the sun rises"

"Sounds good"

"Are you feeling any better?"

"Well that's a very broad question isn't it!" She snaps...

Yes it is, but I think it's answered :)

Looking out over the desert hills I take a moment to enjoy the stillness. Magical! Setting off Steph's still not in a good way. It's already bloody hot and I can tell she's struggling.

Finally a big dam comes into view with small shacks starting to dot the desert. At the first inhabited place we come to I go to get a drink while Steph waits on the road. I'm completely out of water. After I shoo away the dogs and make my way to the camp the woman feeding the cows ignores me completely. Standing in the middle of their yard I notice a scarved head pop out a window smiling broadly...

"Hello"

"Do you mind if I get some water?"

"No problem"

Calling out to the other woman she lets her know what I want. She comes over with a sour look on her face...

"But it's Ramadan!"

"I know...but I'm not Muslim"

The woman's look sours some more, luckily the girl in the window seems to think it's quite funny and saying a few words explains I must be Christian. Sour face gives me a quick glance up and down before indicating I should follow, leading me to a small tent with a big jug of drinking water. Gulping down a mug full I don't feel right asking to fill my bottle. Meeting Steph back on the road I offer to walk her back...

"NO, I don't want to go back! I can't believe you didn't fill your bottle!"

"No, I didn't. But if you want I'll walk you back"

"No!"

I can see Steph's completely out if water but civilization can't be too far away. It better not be anyway or I'm going to be carrying her out :) Ploughing on it's slow going and getting hotter and hotter. Much to our relief an army ute pulls into a driveway ahead, the first car we've seen all day!

"Excuse me, do you guys have water?"

Searching around the truck we're dismayed what they manage to rummage up...empty bottles :(

"Here jump in"

There's not really much choice. jumping in the car they take us down to their office, water never tasted so good! :) Steph collapses on the footpath deciding to get a taxi back to Amman and fly to Jerusalem. She's over it!

Hitching a ride back to our pickup point I make my way down the hill to Steph. She takes a little convincing but I finally manage to talk her into walking the last kilometer to the main road.

Still not sure where we are we decide to hitch. If Steph is comfortable with the driver great :) If not it looks like I'll be heading back to Amman...

Five minutes of standing in the sun and we're over it, the problem is we don't know which direction the closest town is. Just as we're both about to loose it a taxi pulls up...

"How much to Amman?"

"Five Lira"

"Five Lira!!!"

"Yes"

Thats that. We say our farewells and agree to meet in Jerusalem. A bit of a strange parting but under the circumstances it's as good as it gets. I'm still super glad she made the effort to be here :)

Heading west I only make two kilometers before getting invited in for a drink. But this is one of the problems about being a tourist in Ramadan, my hosts can't join me in and I feel slightly guilty gulping down huge amounts of Sprite in front of them :)

The heat's now in full force and when I head off and spotting a market 200m down the road I stop once more. The guys here are great and hiding out the back of their store are happy to sit, smoke and drink tea :)

"How far is King Hussein Bridge?"

"Not far...about eight kilometers"

WOW! That's awesome :) I'm a lot closer than I thought. Not knowing what time they close for the day I decide to leg it down there as fast as possible. Even though it is stinking hot I make reasonable time and after a few short brakes make it down to the bridge...

My last border crossing!!!

Feeling very happy with myself I approach the first checkpoint...

"Sorry, we are closed"

Ugghhhhh! "When do you open next?"

"Eight am tomorrow morning"

Oh well, could be worse. I did hear a rumor they weren't open on Saturdays which would have been a real fucker. An American couple with a hire car also get turned away and offer to give me a lift back to town. Cheers guys :)

With no hotels for 50kms there's nothing to do other than stuff around until dark and camp close to the border. Having no luck finding internet at least one restaurant I ask lets me eat out the back which saves me from being completely miserable. And the heat just keeps getting worse and worse! Even spending the day sitting still in the shade it isn't until 6pm I finally stop sweating! Awesome!!!

Darkness finally sets in and walking a couple of kilometers back towards the bridge I find a nice clearing on the side of the road to set camp. This close to town I feel more comfortable in my tent but even at this hour it's like a sauna, it takes me a long time before I drift off...

Pilgrimage from Amman to Middle of Nowhere 04/09/08

2008-09-09T22:17:00.000-07:00

Oooooh my God!!!

What the fuck am I doing up so early! It's 4am but knowing in another few hours I'll appreciate the effort I drag myself out of bed to pack the remaining gear still lying around the hotel room. Now this is really getting exciting! Due West to Jerusalem!!!

But first we need to taxi it back to the Roman Theater :) Which we do after a quick breakfast at the hotel, one of the main advantages of Ramadan for anyone silly enough to be up at this hour...4am breakfasts :)

The streets are almost empty and with map in hand Steph and I head off in search of our road to the border. It's great to have a walking companion again. It's been three months walking by myself and I'm sure I must be slightly mentally destabilized by the experience ;)

The temperature is perfect and with hardly any traffic the walking is great. Steph knew she would only be walking a few days so her gear isn't up to scratch. Her small backpack starts hurting straight away so I offer to carry her heavy stuff, the least I can do since she made the effort to be here :)

Trying to locate the same road we drove out on a few days ago we think we are in luck and head out of the city. Because of Ramadan none of the restaurants are open but at least we can still rustle together some nourishment from the mini-markets.

Seven or eight kilometers from the city we strike our first hurdle...the highway disappears within a small village. This isn't the road we drove out on! :(

"Where's the map?" Steph asks...

"I didn't bring it, we drove the road the other day and I thought we would just walk straight to the bridge"

"What do you mean you don't have the map!?! Didn't I ask if you had the map before we left?"

Laughing "Yes, you did. But that was only the map of Amman" :)

She doesn't look impressed...

Yep, the joys of a pilgrimage...and yes, obviously I haven't learnt anything from my last 6000kms :) But what it has taught me is I know I will be fine and I know I will get to my destination...

Just might take an extra few kilometers :)

Asking the locals doesn't get us far, all they want to do is send us back to the bus station in Amman but finally asking at a pharmacy we have some luck...

"Yes, go straight down here to Iraq Al Mere. Then ask there..."

So off we head. The temperature's starting to rise and the road begins winding up and down the small hills in front of us. Sweating more than two Sumo wrestlers in a Sauna we stop regularly before finding a great little resting place under a tree by a creek.

Crashing out I'm sleeping peacefully when suddenly a blood curdling scream rings out through the hills. Sitting bolt upright I realize the horrendous noise came from my mother and the two culprits are taking flight as fast as their legs will carry them...

Their reaction confirms their guilt and before I realize it, and still not knowing what happened, I make chase. Racing after them barefoot through the fields I slowly gain as they make it to the road and continue upwards towards the village.

They may be sixteen or seventeen but they definitely aren't fit. Sprinting up the hill I can see them tiring fast and know it's only moments before I catch them. They must realize the same thing, darting up a nearby driveway they turn to lob some rocks, briefly slowing me down, before tearing off again. The good news is they don't have anything in their hands so at least the didn't manage to steal anything.

A car with an old guy driving is making it's way down the driveway and being a small town I'm sure he will know them...

"Hi, do you know these two?"

He looks at me warily, obviously not sure what's happening, and he must have seen them throwing rocks at me so he knows somethings going on...

"No, why?"

"They were trying to steal from us. What are there names?"

Looking more uncomfortable "Sorry, I don't know"

"Are you Muslim? That is Haram! What are their names?"

"Yes, I'm Muslim. And it's Ramadan!" He points in the direction the two fled and spits on the ground "Ramadan!"

I stifle a small laugh. It's one thing to do something wrong as a Muslim in normal times but in the month of Ramadan it's a big no-no. I'm sure this guy must know them and I can understand him not wanting to give me their names. If I get the police involved it will be a big deal for the boys but also a huge problem for the families. I figure this guy is disgusted enough that word will get back to their them and things will sort themselves out. Wishing him well I set off back to the river to find out what happened, and if they did actually steal anything...

Steph laughing "Were you defending my honor?"

"Yes, I didn't know what they were doing but if it was bad enough for them to run like that then it was bad enough for me to chase them. What happened?"

"He grabbed my arse" Steph announces, impressed that even though our cameras and valuables are lying around in the open, the kids decided it was more important to get a feel of her bum than to make a quick buck from our cameras :)

I'm glad she's taking it well and can see the humor in it...little bastards! :)

Getting a little more rest and feeling slightly paranoid some rocks will come hurtling off the mountain side we make a move. The sun's now in full force and we take it easy stopping often.

Collapsing in an olive grove it's time again for a quick nap. As we wake, our next door neighbors pay a visit to find out what we're about. Quickly disappearing they return bearing water and figs and are happy to sit and chat...

"You can't walk this way. Its dangerous! There's nothing out there. Just desert"

"How far does the desert stretch before we reach some more towns?"

"Maybe twenty kilometers"

Twenty kilometers is doable. If we get a good chunk done this evening then start early before the heat we should be fine. Steph starts to look a bit worried though as we set off. I can understand, this is pretty wild country :)

Only a kilometer later and right on the edge of town a few young boys call us over to a little shop to shout us a Pepsi. I can tell Steph's starting to fray around the edges, firstly I've never seen her drink a Pepsi in my life and secondly as we go to leave she doesn't bother buying water...

Will half a liter be enough???

Knowing that she survived over 1000kms walking with me through Europe I let it slide, she's a big girl and knows what she's doing...

Looking out over the hills as we depart there's nothing to be seen as far as the eye can see. Nothing! No trees, no shrubs, no houses, no fences...nothing!

Steph shoots me a glance like she's about to strangle me for not bringing the map...ooops :)

The heat's still intense and even though it's starting to get late, with the steep up and down of the road the walking is hard. I can see Steph's struggling and for good reason, we've had a big day. Having already covered over thirty kilometers I'm happy to call it a night but Steph wants to keep at it. I figure she'd prefer to get as close to the edge of the desert and civilization as possible before tomorrow.

We now are in a funny situation. If there was a bus Steph would bus it out of here but not surprisingly she doesn't want to hitch by herself and we aren't really sure where there is to hitch to.

Kilometer after kilometer of desert finally takes it's toll, Steph cracks. There's been no traffic for couple of hours so I can't even hitch out with her. Darkness is falling and with no other options we set camp to wait out the night...

Just after dozing off I'm woken by a 4WD stopping barely 50m up the road from us...

Shit! I hope they're not hunting...

Steph's also awake and the tension in the air thick enough to carve with a knife. A minute goes by and they still haven't moved and I fumble around for my torch so if someone starts shooting I can let them know we're here.

Finally they depart but it doesn't even feel like I slept for five minutes before being woken again by the "tap tap tap" of a semi-automatic rifle firing close by...

We aren't getting much sleep tonight I'm sure...

Petra and Amman 03/09/08

2008-09-09T11:45:00.000-07:00

With the goal of beating the crowds we're at the gate as it opens. Venturing down the now empty gorge is a completely different experience to yesterday. Rounding the last bend to emerge in front of the treasury I can't believe we have the whole place to ourselves...

Now this is the way to experience Petra!!!

Heading straight for the monastery it isn't long before we hit the steps...

One, two, three...

No...I'm not really counting them :)

The colored cliffs and gorges in the morning light are spectacular, it feels like we're in a different world as we make our way skywards. But the steps keep going and going and going...

Seven hundred and eighty three, seven hundred and ninety four, seven hundred and ninety five...

Finally rounding a bend there it is...the monastery! Easily as impressive as the treasury my guess is the only reason it's less popular is because of the climb. But well worth the effort.

The local cafe owner is just rising and I harass him for a tea...

"Of course, one minute..."

Mosa owns a souvenir shop a bit further up the hill and sits down for a chat. Another local who has hardly traveled yet speaks near perfect English and is a pleasure to talk to...

"If you feel like having a look when you've finished your tea my shop's on top of the hill here and you can see as far as Israel"

"Really, Israel...from here?"

"Yeah"

"Sure, let's go"

Gulping down the last of our tea we join Mosa and his donkey for the trek to the top. With a slight haze around we can't quite make out Israel but the view is stunning anyway. The position of his shop could not be more spectacular, perched barely meters from a hundred meter drop-off Mosa and his mate Muhammad enjoy their whole lives gazing out onto the world below. Magical! No wonder they both have a very relaxed and carefree air about them...

The walk down is much easier and slowly the tourists start filling the gaps where hours earlier there was nothing but rocks. Glancing up to the stalls above I get a big surprise...

"Ha! There's the "Married to a Bedouin" woman" :) I realize I yelled that a bit too loud and that it's probably not the "Married to the Bedouin" woman because we've just been told she's over in Australia. But now I've got her attention I better go say hello...

"Hi"

"Hi"

"Is this you?" Pointing to a poster of the book...

Smiling "Yes"

"I thought you were in Sydney"

Laughing "Yes, I was. I've just come back"

I have to laugh. What a difference writing a book must have made to her life. One minute she's an obscure anomaly in a mountain cave and the next every passing tourist seems to know what she had for breakfast :)

I can't resist buying her book and don't believe I didn't get a photo...but oh well.

Fighting our way back to the entrance through the sea of people flooding in we jump straight in the car and head for Amman. The drive takes a little longer than expected and we arrive just in time for peek-hour. Brilliant :) The plan was to find a hotel near the Roman theater so we could start walking first thing in the morning but the traffic starts doing my head in...

Spotting a couple of hotels to the right "Let's stay here. This is just silly!"

"Sure"

Steph runs in, checks them out and being well impressed with the foyer of the Toledo decides it's a goa. Sounds perfect to me :) After checking in I rush off to drop the car back before returning to put my feet up for the afternoon.

Meeting up with David, the guy we stayed with a few nights ago, and a couple of other Couchsurfers we go for tea and nagile in the city. By midnight I figure I better get home, it's going to be a 4am start tomorrow to avoid the heat...

Wadi Rum and Petra 02/09/08

2008-09-06T11:55:00.000-07:00

Opening one eye I can tell it's first light. There's an incredible stillness in the air and glancing over towards Steph I can see her sitting up straight on her bed gazing out over the desert taking it all in...

"Can yo wake me when the sun's about to rise?"

"Sure"

I doze back off only to wake wit Khalid yelling in my ear...

"Time to get up! Breakfast time!"

Dragging myself out of bed I notice clouds on the horizon, doesn't look like it was much of a sunrise :) Surprised it's already 07:30 I join everyone crowding around the breakfast table and laugh as they poke at the strange substances served up as breakfast.

Steph's booked herself a camel ride out so after packing all our stuff I go to jump in the car...

"So, am I driving back?"

Khalid doesn't look so impressed "You can drive?"

"Of course"

"Hmmmmm, if you want"

Beauty!!! :)

Speeding off in my new toy it's great fun navigating through the sand. Twenty minutes later we arrive back in Wadi Rum village (where most of the local Bedouins actually live) and Khalid takes me over to his brother's house to use his wireless.

Steph appears all to quickly and after a brief stop for tea at the local cafe we say our farewells to Khalid and head off towards Petra.

Wadi Rum is a must see for all travelers to Jordan. A magical place and even though the "touristy side" is a bit much to start with the overall experience is great. And I have to recommend our guide, Khalid (+962 77 540 229), he made the experience all the more pleasant. Just make sure you bargain hard ;)

The drive to Petra takes a little longer than expected and because of Ramadan we arrive starving. A Movenpick resort appears before us and we can't resist, when it's this or nothing it's time to pull out the credit card ;)

Surprisingly the meals aren't too pricey and with a nice glass of wine I'm left feeling very content. Checking in at the first hotel we spot in the center of town it's in for a quick shower before heading down to discover the wonder that is Petra!

And holly crap!!! Where did all these tourists come from?!?

The whole place is teaming like an ants nest, and this is meant to be low season! Making our way through a deep sandstone gorge the colors in the evening light are stunning. Emerging from the gorge we come face to face with Petra's crown jewel...the treasury.

This giant building hewn into the sandstone cliff before us is incredible. A masterpiece of craftsmanship and well worth the trip just on it's own. But the amazing thing with Petra is there's hundreds of these things! Very similar to Cappadoccia in Turkey but with a bit more style.

Tiring quickly we decide to head back and save the Monastery for the morning, the rumor is there's a climb of almost 1000 steps and we aren't in the mood for that! :)

Making our way back to town and enjoying an orange juice on the footpath a lively Australian comes to join us. Rick's a character, an incredibly alive and friendly guy. With dreadlocks and retired at 44 he's not your average anything. Intent on living life by his own terms it's great to meet someone really living to the fullest. Cheers mate, it was a pleasure :)

I head over to the internet cafe leaving Steph and Rick laughing away merrily.

Another perfect day :)

Aqaba and Wadi Rum 01/09/08

2008-09-06T11:47:00.000-07:00

With my dives not starting till ten I have a cruisy morning, enjoying my relaxation time lounging around the hotel. After a quick breakfast I head over, meet the guys and get my gear together.

There were no other takers for diving today so the guide's all mine, perfect :) Gliding silently through the coral I'm well impressed with the variety of things to see, one of the advantages of having low expectations. Everyone I've talked to said if I have already dove in the Red Sea in Egypt don't bother here, it's nice to be pleasantly surprised. The guide leads me round a shipwreck before heading in and popping up in an air pocket. Well impressed, first time I've ever done that!

After a brief break it's in again, this time sticking to the coral gardens. One of the biggest ugliest fish I have seen in my life appears in front of us, so ugly it makes the huge stone fish next to it look cute :) Rounding a bend to find a rock covered in lion fish is the perfect way to finish leaving me glad I opted for second dive.

Meeting back up with Steph I'm stoked she saved me some lunch after splurging at the Movenpick. So with nothing holding us back it's in the car and up to Wadi Rum.

The drive goes quickly and before we know it were haggling with the Bedouins trying to get a good deal on a tour and a night in the desert...well, I'm haggling anyway. Steph decides she's got better things to do with her life and offers to give the guy whatever he wants :) One way to ensure we have a happy guide...

Which he is. Khalid is awesome, the type of guy who could sell ice to the Eskimos and and with his big friendly smile it's impossible not to like him. Racing us through the desert in his four wheel drive we check out a big natural arch, some rock paintings and a huge sand dune before arriving at our "camp"...

Shit, here we go...

Having imagined a bedouin camp to consists of Bedouin families, goats and camels I'm rather surprised with where we are. Clean little tents are lined up in a row with a permanent building housing flush toilets. The only bedouins to be seen are Khalid and the two guys that will cook us dinner...no goats, no camels, no Bedouin families. Then, just to top it off our bedouin experience a truckload of Australians and Kiwis show up on the back of a truck. Wonderful :)

I have to laugh, here I am paying $40 (actually, Steph's paying most of it as that was the deal if we weren't going to bargain :) ) for the privilege of sleeping in a tent in the desert with a tourist group. What's going on?!?

After the initial shock wears off I have to say the experience is great. Dinner is fantastic and lounging round the camp fire smoking nagile, drinking tea and chatting to the tour group it's a perfect way to spend the evening.

Deciding to sleep outside Steph and I grab our mattresses, find a flat patch of sand a short distance away and call it a night. Lying under the desert stars the timelessness of our surroundings can really be felt. A truly magical place!

The Dead Sea and Aqaba 31/08/08

2008-09-06T11:40:00.000-07:00

Waking before the Sun, excited to be traveling as a tourist for a few days we pack up and head straight off in search of the Dead Sea. With little idea of where to go and a dodgy map it's amazing we locate the road out of town without fuss.

Following the street signs I get a huge surprise an hour later when we hit a road block declaring itself as the "King Hussein Bridge", a border crossing with the West Bank.

First of all...

How did we miss our turnoff???

And second of all...

What's this bridge doing so close to the Dead Sea???

The easiest route for a tourist into Israel is through this border crossing but whenever I asked about it or searched on the internet I kept getting the same answer "One hundred and fifty kilometers from Amman"! I have only driven seventy at the most, hence my surprise. The good news is though, instead of trying to get permission from the Israeli embassy to use the other border crossing, it's not far out of my way to use this one. Beauty!!! :)

Turning back we relocate our turnoff and spotting tourist signs to Bethany, the place Jesus was baptized, figure it's worth a look. Arriving as the gate opens we are the only tourists in sight and soon realize why, you can only enter with a tour guide and the tours start at 08:30.

Eight thirty comes and goes but still no sign of the tour guides, the ticket man's in his office though so I go for a chat...

"Good morning. When's the first tour?"

"Good morning. Nine O'clock...usually"

"Usually?!? Can we definitely have a tour at nine, because if not we don't want to wait"

With a big grin "Okay, nine O'clock. Definitely!"

He's not very convincing but we wait it out anyway. Five minutes past nine the tour guide makes an appearance and we set off to explore Bethany. The ruins and the river Jordan are worth a look but what really gets my blood pumping is looking over at Israel. With my feet dangling in the water it's only 3m away!!! Cheating a bit I know since we drove here but still a good feeling ;)

Then it's on to a place I have fantasized about coming to ever since I can remember, the Dead Sea :) And I'm amazed to say it is everything I imagined. It's impossible not to float, on your stomach, on your back, trying to stay vertical...doesn't matter, you'll float. Awesome place! And I have to laugh at Steph's swimsuit :)

With the whole beach to ourselves it's heaven and if it wasn't for the extraordinary heat I'm sure we would be content for hours. But we aren't and before long we are once again hurtling along the highway a 120kms/hr on our way to Aqaba.

the small rolling hills of Israel can be seen on the other side of the sea, combined with the completely barren desert on this side stretching towards steep rocky mountains the scenery is magical!

A couple of hours of driving is all it takes to reach Aqaba and the Red Sea. Booking myself in for some dives tomorrow we find a great little hotel, go for dinner and have an early night...

Amman 30/08/08

2008-09-06T11:30:00.000-07:00

Steph always wakes early and even though she is quiet, I still find myself awake by 7am. "Blogs" is the first thing that comes to mind, I NEED to catch up on them! But trying to write is extremely difficult with wireless internet filtering in through the window...I don't get far :)

"Let's go to the old city for breakfast"

"Sounds good"

Hitting the city, having a nice feed and managing another brief glance at the Roman theater our interest in the city center very quickly dies. It's hot, busy and dusty, I'd much rather be lying at home relaxing.

Hailing a cab we realize that the Amman taxi drivers don't have clue about there city. We thought we had been unlucky with our last couple but a trend is definitely emerging...

We give the guy the street name...

Blank looks...

We show him on the map...

Blank looks...

Finally we try a travel agency to see if he can help out. Amman appears to be navigated by landmarks, not street names and after a brief discussion we think he knows where to go...

We are wrong :)

Time to get a hire car and try ourselves!

The process is amazingly simple and before we know it we zip off in our new set of wheels, very happy travelers :) Let's see if we can navigate the streets of Amman ourselves...

"Go down to the left. Straight along through three sets of traffic lights then turn left at the roundabout"

Sounded very simple but after three sets of traffic lights there's not a roundabout to be seen. Stopping every chance we get to ask directions we eventually locate our apartment, and it's not like a taxi would have gotten us there any quicker anyway ;)

Spending the afternoon lounging around it's down to Wild Jordan for dinner. What a choice! With views encompassing the city and a cool breeze blowing over the balcony the atmosphere couldn't be better. The menu consists of healthy, organic ingredients and with the price for all meals under €10 it's a bargain. If you ever find yourself in Amman and hungry, this is the place to head.

Feeling very content it's back to the apartment for a little writing then bed...

Pilgrimage from Az Zarqa to Amman 29/08/08

2008-09-06T05:01:00.000-07:00

Steph's plane was due at 05:30 and only being 20kms from Amman I'm sure I can meet up with her before lunch. The dreaded sound of the alarm wakes me at six, dragging myself down to check out a guy I haven't met before is in reception...Jihad :)

Yes, Jihad. Rather unfortunate name to have in this day and age, especially being well traveled, which is probably why he follows up with...

"But my Western friends call me Jo" :)

Jihad won't let me go without joining him for a coffee but this early in the morning I don't need much convincing.

Hitting the highway I'm amazed it's already hot, thank God I left the hour I did. Without a map It's impossible to judge how far I've come but with regular coffee breaks I'm sure I'm making good time. Out of the blue I stumble upon a big old Roman theater. This is the one thing we really miss out on coming from Australia, there's nowhere you can walk where you may stumble upon any ancient architecture but in these parts it's common place...

The tranquility of the adjacent park is too much to resist, out comes the Apple and I set myself up for some writing with a tea. A local tourist guide joins me for a chat...

"How far to the city center?"

"This is the city center"

"Here!?!"

"Yes, wait...I'll get you a map"

True to his word he returns bearing a map of Amman and I'm incredibly pleased to see I've already made the city. Heading straight to an internet cafe I call Steph, finding out she's on the other side of town in an apartment she sourced on Couchsurfing! :) Go Steph!!!

Jumping in a taxi it isn't long before I locate our meeting place. The last time I saw Steph was when she left me in Damascus last winter so it's great to catch up...and especially here, less than 100kms from my destination! Cheers mum :)

The apartment is shared with two American guys, Taylor and David who are great value. Both are relaxed and easy going and couldn't make us feel more welcome. With a shower and free wireless I'm in no hurry to go anywhere, the evenings spent relaxing, talking and writing which is perfect...

Pilgrimage from Thughrat Al Jubb to Az Zarqa 28/08/08

2008-09-06T04:45:00.001-07:00

Waking from a wonderful sleep a quick glance around ensures I'm safe to roll over and continue on. The sun has only just risen and there is not a sole to be seen, except for the occasional car driving below on the highway. Perfect :)

Waking again around 7am the air is still cool and with the sky slightly overcast I couldn't ask for a better day. Enjoying the nothingness I pack up my gear and set off...

Tap tap tap...

Big heavy raindrops start falling around me. Slightly panicked I glance skyward and am pleased the sky above me is blue. Rain is the last thing I'm prepared for and the last thing I was expecting out here. My waterproof bags aren't done up and there's no shelter as far as the eye can see. If it starts pissing down I'm in big trouble :(

The view behind isn't comforting, or what I can see if it anyway. Only a few kilometers from where I stand the desert disappears into a thick haze. God I hope that's not rain...

My pace quickens and the big drop ease off, within half an hour there's not a cloud to be seen and the temperature begins to rise...maybe rain wasn't so bad after all :)Encouraged by the continuous flow of waves and cheers from the passing traffic I soldier on. A line from a movie keeps popping into my head...

A merchant wishes the hero well as he leaves his tent "May you find water and shade..."

To someone who has never walked through the desert this is a pretty obvious yet strangely meaningless statement, but now I get it in it's entirety...and I really need some shade! Completely in my own little world I don't even notice the tree on the hill next to me until a rubbish collector yells out, literally jumping off the ground with enthusiasm to get me to join him. Sitting on a bit of cardboard with a little fire next to him for his tea he greets me like he's the happiest man in the world.

With a big toothless grin, sharp eyes, dark weathered skin and a bright orange safety vest he's a character, it's just a shame he's camera shy ;) There's only one glass between us and he insists on forgoing his tea so I can drink. Sitting there in the middle of nowhere enjoying a simple lunch of bread and cheese I feel entirely content.

Continuing on I only make 5kms before the heat starts getting to me again, it's now after midday and the sun is in full force. Spotting a tunnel I think I'm in luck but the incredible stench of wild animal knocks me back. Or is that just me???

Deciding it's probably this or nothing I make myself comfortable and quickly crash out. Feeling dazed on waking I try to get back to sleep but the smell and the flies become too much, I've got to get moving!

An oncoming police car slows down beside me and I prepare to for some questions. The next thing I know I'm blasted with their loudspeaker...

"WELCOME! WELCOME TO JORDAN!!!"

I can't help joining in as their cackling continues out the loudspeaker as they drive off :)

Turning off the highway I'm met with nothing but military facility after military facility. It seems a never ending wall of concrete and barbed wire, and just to tease I'm sure, all the trees are safely tucked away on the other side.

By the time I reach Az Zarqa I'm exhausted, having walked the last 14kms without a break. I'm also about to die of thirst! Collapsing at the first shop I come to I can barely speak and it isn't until finishing my second drink I finally start to make some sense.

Mahmud, Adel and Ahmed are awesome and ensure I'm entertained while I'm there. They don't let me pay and then insist I come across the road for watermelon. Now this is what I needed. Eating so much I can hardly walk I say a big "thank you" to the guys and go in search of a hotel.

Locating the center of town I soon find what I'm looking for...

"Do you have any rooms available?"

He rings up and checks with the boss "Yes, I only have one room left but it comes with TV and A/C"

"How much is it?"

"Twenty-five Pounds"

"Can you do it for ten?"

"The rooms without TV and A/C I could do for ten but this one I can not. Come have a look and then we'll see..."

He takes me upstairs and shows me the room...

"For you, you can gave it for 18 pounds. With a TV this is a good price"

"I will take it for ten, that's it. I really don't need a TV"

"Actually, we have one more room just like this but slightly smaller, you can have that for 15 pounds"

The next room is dodgy so pointing back to the other room...

"If you want I'll take that one for ten, otherwise I'll continue looking"

"Actually, we have one more room if you want. This one doesn't have a TV and you can have it for ten"

Wankers :) Normally I would leave at this stage but I'm hot, tired and want to do some writing...

Sighing "Yep, that will be great. Thanks"

Going for dinner and a quick stop at the internet I set myself up in my room typing. With one blog almost finished the "You are now running on reserve power" warning flashes...

I'll just finish this story then plug myself in...

One story leads to the next which leads to the next. Suddenly the computer shuts down...

Noooooooooooo!!!!!

Why do I do this to myself when I'm behind in my blogs. The document isn't saved!!! Frantically plugging the computer in my fears are confirmed...gone! :( I have a moment of despair, want to cry, want to throw myself out the window then take a deep breath and start again.

It's hard when I get behind on my blogs. All my spare time goes into trying to catch up and the problem is it's never ending, as soon as one blogs finished there's more stories to tell...

Pilgrimage from Syrian-Jordanian Border to Thughrat Al Jubb 27/08/08

2008-09-03T08:48:00.000-07:00

An early start to the day will do me well so waking early I try rather unsuccessfully to get it together. By the time I'm out the door it's almost 9am! Setting off towards Jordan I'm soon to discover the hotel is not actually in no-mans land at all. One more Syrian roadblock is left to cross...

"Passport please"

I hand him my documents...

"This stamp is from yesterday! You can't cross today!"

"What!?! I stayed in the Taj hotel last night"

"Yes, no problem...but you need to go get another stamp"

Now, why the fuck they put a hotel in between two roadblocks that can't be passed on separate days is completely beyond me but the guy's not budging. Taking a deep breath I take my passport and go to head back...

"Wait, I'll stop a car for you so you can get a lift back"

This cheers me slightly as it's a bit of a walk. Arriving at the immigration office and making it to the front of the line I explain to the officer what I need...

Giving me a look like I'm causing him a lot of trouble "Wait here"

I wait as he processes the guy behind me, then the next guy and the next...

"Sorry, is there a problem!?"

"Yes, of course there's a problem! You got your stamp yesterday and your still here!"

"Of course I'm still here! I stayed in the hotel 500m down the road! I don't understand what the problem is!"

"Do you have a receipt?"

"They didn't give me one"

"Well, I need a receipt"

Taking another deep breath I trudge back to the hotel, get my receipt and return rather unamused, but luckily for me with receipt in hand they are much happier. Pulling out a sheet of paper they fill in my details and with so many names I'm obviously not the only poor bugger who's been screwed around by this system...

Smiling broadly "Okay, you can go..."

Forcing a return smile "Thanks"

What a mission! Making it back to the original checkpoint I pass through easily and one kilometer later take my first steps into Jordan :)

There's always a bit of uncertainty in the air when passing into a new country...

How will the police treat me?

How will the military treat me?

Will there be a restaurant in the next 100kms?

Hitting the first Jordanian roadblock a soldier yells out rather aggressively. heading over they demand my passport and ask why I'm walking...

"Your from Australia! Welcome, welcome. Here, take a seat"

"Thanks"

"You have walked from England!?!"

One of them rushes inside and returns bearing coffee...

"Here, please. for you"

The guys are great and we sit and chat for a good ten minutes. I go to leave and a soldier once again disappears inside returning with a big bottle of water. I only just filled up so politely refuse but not to be deterred he rushes back in, this time returning with a can of Pepsi. I couldn't ask for a better introduction to jordan :)

Clearing immigration without a fuss I pass the last checkpoint around 11:30, what a morning! But now there's only 90kms to Amman...and less than 200kms to Jerusalem!!!!!!!!!!!!

Everyone told me "Syria is hot, but wait till you get to Jordan!"

And they were right. The first thing to hit me is the temperature, it's hot! Really hot! So hot when I take a deep breath I can feel the sides of my nostrils start to burn! So hot I have to be careful not to burn myself when adjusting my grip on the camera tripod! It's hot!!! I'm obviously not getting far before evening, but I'll try...

The good news is though it's dry, not nearly as unbearably as humid heat and I find it's still possible to walk. Making four kilometers a little shop appears and I collapse on their balcony. I'd like nothing more than to wait here out of the heat and as I set myself up a guy comes over to chat. He's nice enough for the first five minutes but after that starts to drive me a little crazy. I'm too hot and tired to deal with him and after twenty minutes there's nothing to do other than bludgeon him to death with a blunt object or keep walking...

I keep walking :)

The next restaurant is great and with a big carpeted area filled with cushions I've soon crashed out. Wonderful!!! Wonderful that is until I get the bill. I asked the price of everything as I bought it and know the bill should be two pounds. The guy's telling me ten!!!

After a bit of an argument we agree on two pounds and feeling recharged I get into it. I love walking in the desert!

Stopping at Al Mafraq for internet and dinner I walk off into the night. By 11pm I've covered my 30kms and spotting a little hill just off the highway head up there to find a sleeping spot.

Lying under the starts is magical but as I'm drifting off I can hear some wild dogs barking in the distance...

Let's hope they don't get to close...

Pilgrimage from Khirbat Al Ghazalah to Syrian-Jordanian Border 26/08/08

2008-09-03T08:30:00.001-07:00

Waking with my alarm at 7am the thought passes through my mind "Why did I bother finishing the movie?"

I want to get some blogs written before Maya comes but it isn't going to happen, rolling over I fall back asleep. Snapped back to reality by the phone it's Maya letting me know she's thirty minutes away.

Meeting her as she arrives I'm extremely happy she made the effort and offer to shout her brunch...

"Let's eat in the next street. The restaurants here piss me off"

Which they do, like any tourist area worldwide they are well over priced with a constant stream of people harassing you to buy something. Bugger that :) As we leave the square the last restaurant on the corner gives me a great vibe...

"Let's eat here"

With the tables centered around a fountain the atmosphere is peaceful and even though it looks expensive the environment is worth it. Catching up over a meal of chicken, rice, hommus, yoghurt and olives I'm left feeling very content. The bill arrives and I can't believe my eyes...550 Lira! That's the same amount the other restaurants wanted to charge me for one plate! A bargain with two teas, softdrink and the starters! It's comforting to see not everyone is caught up in the "Let's milk the tourists for all their worth" crowd :) No wonder this restaurant sends off good vibes.

From here it's in to the theater and I'm well impressed. I have to admit, the only reason I made the effort to get here was because all the other travelers I talked to who have seen a lot of ruins all say this is worth the effort. And I'd have to agree...

What makes the Busra theater so unique is that it is still in almost perfect condition. So perfect concerts still get held here. Quite extraordinary! Maya has been here before and is happy to act as my tour guide. From the theater it's down for a quick stroll around the old city before she has to find a bus back to Damascus. Spotting a juice stall in the square maya turns to me...

"Do you want a juice?"

"Sure, sounds great"

"How much is the orange juice?"

"One hundred lira"

"One hundred lira! For for one or for two?"

"For one"

Laughing "Come on, I'm Syrian! You can't charge one hundred lira for a juice. How much really?"

"One hundred lira"

Maya starts to look pissed off...

"Even in the expensive areas of Damascus you don't pay more than fifty lira for a juice on the side of the road. Are you stupid?"

"Oranges are expensive here"

"I'll give you one hundred for two"

"One hundred and fifty for two"

She turns to me...

"Do you still want a juice?"

"Nah, bugger him. I'll just get a bottled drink"

Maya removes two bottles from the fridge and assuming the prices are standard everywhere in Syria hands him fifty lira...

"No, seventy-five!"

"Look, the price for these is forty lira! Fifty is more than enough!"

"No, seventy-five"

Maya slaps her fifty lira down in disgust and walks away...

"See, that's how you have to deal with them. They are stupid!"

I have to laugh :) I'm glad it's not just the foreigners who have to go through this...

The bus isn't until 2pm which leaves us just enough time for a game of billiards. Saying our farewells I head back to the restaurant to wait out the heat. A couple of hours and two cups of tea later I go to leave...

"Could I please have the bill?"

"No"

"No, the bill, the bill"

Making dismissive waving motions at me "No no"

"No money?"

Smiling Broadly "Welcome welcome"

It does give me a bit of faith when I meet shop owners smack bang in the middle of touristville who still maintain some dignity and honor...cheers guys :)

A quick taxi ride back to the highway leaves me on the edge of Seida and not knowing if I'll find any restaurants elsewhere I stock up on more fried chicken. With my belly full of grease and feeling very ill I start hitching back up the highway. A policeman walks down from his office to find out what I'm doing...

"I'm hitching about ten kilometers that way then I'm going to walk to Jordan"

"Why?"

"Just for fun"

"Aaaah, very good. Very good"

Walking into the middle of the road he stops a truck and instructs him to take me where I want. Now that's the way to hitch :) Relocating my intersection I get to it. It's already past 6pm, a bit later than I wanted to start, but it means the conditions are now perfect for walking.

Thoroughly enjoying my last steps in Syria the distance goes quickly and I walk into the night. Rapid footsteps sound as I pass a building, a voice calls out in a mix of French and English...

"Mister, stop! Come here!"

Glancing over I have the feeling I'm next to a military complex but having learnt my lesson after getting shot at in Turkey I'm not game to hit them with my torch...

"Are you military? Police?"

"Stop mister! Stop! You must come here"

They didn't answer my question and are moving close. With my torch beam aimed just in front of he leader I give it a quick swivel up stealing a glance. Flicking from one to the next I don't like what I see. Three young guys, probably 22-25, all well dressed are coming out of a construction site. A bad feeling hits my straight away, they have the look and character of wanna be gangsters and I'm not sticking around to find out...

"Mister, mister! Come here!"

"No...goodbye"

Now, they are probably just university students who have found a good place for a party and want to invite me along but I'm not going against my intuition. Their language is aggressive and if they want to talk they will have to follow me up the road...and if they are willing to do that the conversation will be held in the middle of the oncoming traffic :)

A car zips past and using it's headlights I glance back to check if they are following, much to my relief they have stopped on the roadside watching me retreat.

By 11pm I hit the border and a policeman at the first checkpoint comes out to meet me...

"What are you doing?"

"Walking to Jordan"

"Ha, you can't do that! If you walk past here I will arrest you" Indicating to the car next to him "This is Abu Khali. He will take you to Jordan"

"No, seriously. I'm just walking. I've walked across the other Syrian borders with no problem. Why can't I walk here?"

He doesn't look impressed...

"If you want to walk, fine! But as soon as you pass here I will arrest you"

He takes my arm and much to the amusement of the other offices tries to manhandle me into the car. I decide it's time for some peer pressure. In Arabic and loud enough for everyone to hear I explain that I've walked all the way from England (obviously leaving out the part about driving across the border from Greece to Turkey ; ) ). My ploy appears to work, I suddenly have a big group swarming asking questions, then loosing interest they go back to their dinner. The original officer is still making motions like he's going to handcuff me and I resign myself to being driven. Abu Khali has already gone and there's no more cars, loitering around for another minute I slowly start edging away. The officer looks up...

"Okay, go go"

Making shooing motions at me it's all the encouragement I need :)

The official at the next checkpoint welcomes me with a cheeky look in his eye...

"Please sit, sit" Motioning to the bench next to him

"Where are you going?"

"Amman"

"You are walking?"

"Yes"

"And then?"

"And then I'm meeting my mum on the 29th and after that I don't know"

He gets distracted with another traveller and I get up to go...

"No, please. Sit, sit. I want to talk"

"I have seen you walking yesterday and the day before on the highway. Where did you start?"

"England"

"England, wow! How long has it taken you?"

"In total the walking has taken about eight months"

He explains to the other two workers what I'm up to and they all nod approvingly. Once again I get up to go...

"Ben, I have one question for you and you have to answer truthfully"

Taking a deep breath. Here we go :) I glance up at his face and am pleased he still has a playful look in his eye...

"So, are you going there?" Pointing west

Laughing "You know I can't answer that truthfully. How can I answer that?"

I am normally open with the fact I'm walking to Jerusalem but the one place I really don't want to let them know is here at the immigration office. Anywhere else they would have to go to an effort to get me blacklisted but here it will take one flick of a pen or click on a keyboard and that will be that. A rule about coming to Syria is they will not let you in if you have EVER been to Israel...

"So you are going to Tel Aviv!"

"No...to Jerusalem. My walk will finish there"

All three of their faces light up with big smiles and I can see nothing but admiration in the look from my questioner...

"Ben, you are a very good man. A very good man and a very strong man. Now you are free to go..."

Luckily for me none of the other immigration officers recognize me as a walker and before long I'm in no-mans land, a couple of kilometers from Jordan. Out of the blue a big flash hotel appears and I can't believe my luck. It looks expensive but I figure if they will let me stay for $30 I'm all for it...

"Hi, how much is a room?"

"Just you?"

"Yes?"

"Twenty dollars"

"Twenty dollars!?" I'm sure I heard wrong

"Yes, twenty dollars"

I can't believe it! With marbled floors, 24 hour reception, mini-bar, free internet, business center, TV, 24 hour cafeteria and a big new bathroom it is probably the best value hotel I have ever stayed in. Bit of a funny location, in no-mans land and all, but with a duty free shop downstairs selling vodka at $8/Litre I think this is where I'll come to retire ;)

Pilgrimage fom Al Jibab to Khirbat Al Ghazalah 25/08/08

2008-09-03T08:25:00.000-07:00

A picturesque tree fringed lake, glistening in the mornng sun is the first thing to greet me as I wake. What Luck :) I didn't know a lake existed down here and to have randomly picked this place to camp is a miracle. Feeling incredibly content and peaceful I consider taking a photo but being a bit lazy doze off instead...

Opening my eyes once more I can't believe the sight in front of me...desert as far as the eye can see. The lake's disappeared!!! Should have taken that picture when I had the chance ;)

With hunger driving me on I make a move, shortly to arrive at Al Ghazalah. The chance of getting food at this hour is looking pretty slim, I slowly weave my way through the narrow dirt streets a passerby offers to show me a restaurant :) Ordering a big bowl of fool I'm in heaven...just what I needed!

A young guy spots me eating, comes over to the cafe and introduces himself. Turning to my host...

"What are you doing? He should be eating in your house!"

"House, restaurant, same same"

"I'll take him to my house then"

"But he's already eating"

Pretending I don't understand I absorb myself in my beans. An older man comes over to join us and turning to my host...

"What are you doing? He should be eating in your house!"

I have to laugh but start to feel a bit sorry for him, he has been extremely helpful and polite and now is copping grief for it :)

Of course noone lets me pay and as I head off the young guy offers to walk me back to the highway. Wonderful s I have no idea where I need to go. Passing through the fields I suddenly realize I'm surrounded by tomatoes! The mystery is starting to unravel...

"Where do you get the water from to grow tomatoes?"

"Underground"

That explains it. The far South of Syria has a thriving tomato industry based on ground water. Who would have thought??? Not me :)

Returning to the highway in great spirits the walking is a pleasure. Shops and restaurants start appearing again and the only concern I have is trying to decode the syrian street signs...

I've noticed that the distance to the Border is sometimes more than to Daraa, which I thought was just a mistake but it's starting to happen more and more often. If it's true it means I'm not on the right road and not heading to the right border crossing :( I really need to find a map!

The fruit stall workers ensure I don't go far without entertaining conversation and there's always a cup of tea waiting when I'm tired. AND they confirm I have to leave the highway to reach Daraa...not good!

The plan was to spend the night in Daraa, bus to Busra in the morning to see the old Roman theater then walk to Jordan in the afternoon. Right on dark I hit the Daraa turnoff and decide on a change of plans...

I'm going straight to Busra :)

Sticking out my thumb it doesn't take long before I'm 7kms from my destination. Waiting on the side of the road for another lift a car pulls up and I jump in...

"Where are you going?"

"Busra. Are you going to Busra?"

"Yes, yes...no problem"

Arriving at my destination and grabbing my bags I turn and shake the drivers hand...

"What, your not going to pay?"

Laughing "No"

"What, you have to pay, I'm a taxi!"

I'm not entirely sure if he's taking the piss and quickly checking around for a meter or taxi signs, I'm pleased there's nothing to be seen...

"Your not a taxi! Where's your meter or taxi signs?"

"Of course I'm a taxi! My car's yellow"

Yellow???

Popping my head out once again I confirm his car is yellow...

"That doesn't mean your a taxi!"

"In Syria ALL yellow cars are taxis"

Hmmmmm, I try to think if anyone I know has a yellow car. No luck. A police officer is close by so the driver suggests we talk to him. Sounds good to me...at least I will ensure I get a fair price :)

The cop thinks it's pretty funny and before we know it there are about five cops milling around all joining in the fun. Spotting a yellow car down the road that looks nothing like a taxi I'm sure this will destroy his story that all yellow cars in Syria are taxis...

"Look, that car down there is yellow! Is that a taxi?"

All faces turn and reply in unison...

"Yes"

Shit! They're joking right???

Well, they aren't. With that cleared up we agree on a price and wish each other well. Lucky he also has a sense of humor and wasn't pissed off.

All I want now is to find a room, have a shower and crash out. Unfortunately all the accommodation is dorm style and none of the "hotels" have showers, just buckets of water in a filthy little room. Finally locating a place with a hose I figure this will have to do. After a cold hosing and a quick walk around the old square it's time for bed. One of my good friends from university, who was incredibly pissed off I didn't see her while I was in Damascus, is coming to visit tomorrow.

Hopping into bed I have the great idea of watching a movie, the problem is though, once I've started a movie I can't not finish it. And this movie is crap! Really crap. The one stage where it looks like it's just about to get exciting it ends! Bloody unbelievable...

Pilgrimage from Darayya to Al Jibab 24/08/08

2008-09-01T23:38:00.000-07:00

The constant buzz of mosquitoes drove me crazy last night and ensured I didn't get much sleep. I'd wake, smother myself in repellent, fall asleep then wake an hour later when the repellent started wearing of with mosquitoes biting my nose :( I really should have got it together to put up the tent but oh well...

It's 5am when I decide to get moving, feeling like I've been hit by a truck! The temperature is still cool and the highway is not so busy ensuring the walk is pleasant.

As the traffic starts to pick up I can't believe my eyes when truck after truck zips by laden with tomatoes. Like, literally every second vehicle on the road!

Where are they coming from???

I know the next 50kms is nothing but desert and everybody tells me from the border to Amman is the same story. Strange...very strange :)

Yesterday evening there was restaurants and service stations in abundance this morning is a different story. I'm greeted with nothing, nothing and more nothing. But the one good news is my old university is along here somewhere and even though it's summer holidays the teachers still have to work and I'm sure the cafeteria will be open.

The problem is on foot it's a lot farther from Damascus than I realized! By 10am I'm starving, every time I round a bend I pray this will be the last one and it never is, as I'm giving up hope and thinking I must have past it last night the big AEU" sign comes into sight! Thank God for that :)

"Ben! Ben!"

Snapped out of my daydream I look up to see a small truck pulled over on the side of the road. A woman's waving at me frantically, as I near I realize it's Sabaha and Abdula :)

"Hi Ben, we've been looking for you. You have come a long way"

Smiling "Yes"

"We are on our way to see some relatives in Daraa and we bought you a sandwich in case we saw you"

Oooooohhhh, champions!!!

It may just be my hunger but the sandwich is divine and washed down with a can of Pepsi I couldn't ask for more, what a treat! Some people are just too nice :)

Arriving at uni I'm disappointed both my teachers are away on holidays but the surprising thing is there's students everywhere! What are they all doing here during their break???

Finding a seat in the cafeteria and stealing some wireless it isn't long before some old friends recognize me and come for a chat. I find out everyone's here for "Summer school"....makes sense :) but noone can believe I've just walked in off the street on my way to Amman. They all knew this was what I'd be doing after I left in the winter but it's another thing to see it face to face...

It's great to catch up with every body but as time ticks away I realize I better get moving. Back on the highway I'm straight into a headwind, which is pleasant because it's cool but combined with the passing trucks ensures I'm constantly running back to retrieve my hat :( Makes for slow going...

Once again there's not a restaurant to be seen and just on dusk a turnoff appears to a town only one kilometer off the main road. Worth a try...

Two hundred meters from the turnoff a truck driver's delivering goods to a factory, I ask if they know whether there is a restaurant in town...

"No restaurant...but you will find I corner shop"

"Cheers" Better than nothing...

"But wait. Stop here and let's eat. Please wait..."

Opening the food cabinet on the side of his truck he searches around for any goodies he has to offer, emerging with a tin of meat, bread and some cheese. Looks great! :)

Setting ourselves up he joins me for a few mouthfuls but the other guy politely refuses...

"Okay Ben, I've got to go now. Welcome and enjoy"

He walks off down the street and it's then I realize he's not the truck driver! The other guy is and I have to stifle a giggle at the thought I've probably just been offered his dinner :) If he's bothered he doesn't show it and is still very polite, cheers mate :)

Continuing on into the night my bodies feeling great but it doesn't take long before I'm hungry once more. Around 11pm I spot a flashing light with a building next to it, finally I'll get to fill my belly! Pushing hard it's not till I'm almost level I realize it's a police station! :(

Rather demoralized I only make it another 200m before laying out my sleeping mat and calling it a day...

Pilgrimage from Damascus (Philistine Camp) to Darayya 23/08/08

2008-09-01T23:08:00.000-07:00

Having another good sleep-in I wake feeling very lazy. This morning was meant to be for walking but there's no way in the world that's going to happen :)

Rami wakes, heads downstairs to locate some nourishment and returns bearing fool, a Syrian bean dish perfect for breakfast. Champion! Making the decision to start walking around 5pm with the hope of avoiding the heat, what else to do other than lie around, watch the games and smoking nagile :)

Rami and Alaa are thinking of walking with me for a small section but as the time draws nearer they both feel less and less motivated. Five rolls around and any slight interest that might remain is quickly vanquished by the rolling thunder greeting us at the doorway...

Is it really going to rain???

Making our way down to Rami's shop the occasional big drop crashes around our feet, but rain or no rain I'm going to get moving. Enjoying one last cup of tea the rain starts to fall in ernest, but luckily for me by the time I'm finished it's all moved on...

With the sky clear Rami decides he can spare thirty minutes and sets of with me. Passing from Philistine camp into Yarmouk it isn't long before the apartment buildings fade away into desert and the road is almost empty.

Wishing me well Rami turns back and with the thought "it's only 200kms to Amman!" fixed in my mind I head south. My road suddenly veers to the west which suits me fine. West is where the highway lies and as long as I'm heading south, west or somewhere in between I'm happy.

"Hello, hello, welcome"

A woman comes racing out of her house, arms waving and intent on getting me to join them for coffee. I'm going to be walking half the night anyway so why not :) Sabaha and Abdula are awesome, sitting in their loungeroom they couldn't be more welcoming and soon enough invite me to stay the night...

"Sorry, I've only just started walking. In the day time it's too hot but at night the temperature is perfect"

Abdula is having a very hard time comprehending why I'm about to walk off into night and sleep in a tent when there is a perfectly comfortable bed waiting for me here. Luckily Sabaha gets what I'm doing and manages to convince him I will be okay... :)

"Okay, but let me drive you to the highway. From here to the highway is not a place you want to be walking after dark"

"I'll be fine, thanks anyway"

I can see the concern on both of their faces and even though I have never felt unsafe walking around Syria at night, there are some areas of every country that are best avoided after dark. Walking out the door I start to realize I might be in one of them...

I know the highway is only a few of kilometers away so I'm not too concerned. It is a bit disturbing though that every person I ask for directions freaks out and starts making motions like I'm going to get my throat slit.

Two young guys hear me asking about the highway and volunteer to be my guide...

"Ben, this way"

"But the highway is that way"

"No, no...definitely this way!"

I'm sure the highway isn't in the direction they want to take me but with only empty fields in the right direction I will stick to civilization as long as I can...especially with these two tagging along ;) The stupid questions start straight away...

"Have you got any money?

"Just a little"

"Dollars or Syrian pounds?"

"Syrian pounds"

"Do you know karate?"

Sighing "No...no karate"

"Have you got a gun?"

"No, no gun"

"It's not safe out here, you should have a gun. Do you have a mobile phone? Let me see your mobile phone"

We are all alone and I decided I've had enough of this conversation, if they want to converse further they will have to learn some English... ;)

"Sorry, I don't understand"

"Mobile phone! Do you have a phone? What is your number?"

Shrugging "Sorry, don't know"

A small crowd comes in to view and I breath a sigh of relief...

"No Ben, down this way"

They point to a small alley but there's no way I'm leaving the bigger road...

"No, I'm going this way"

"But the highway is down here. This way, this way"

Reaching the group I once again ask for directions and sure enough the highway is in the opposite direction to where these two want to take me. The direction giver has a comforting smile and offers to walk me to the turnoff, I take a liking to the him straight away. Thankfully the two young guys loose interest before my new guide departs and I continue on alone.

Finally reaching the highway I get a quick rest with some truck drivers for fruit and tea before again turning south. Walking into the night I don't make it far before a old man in full Islamic dress, robes, beard, little hat and all, comes running up and stops me for a chat...

"Come, sit with me for tea"

"Sure"

He smiles warmly as we walk back to his tent...

"I have many children, do you have any money for me?"

Laughing "Sorry, I'm happy to come and talk but I won't give you any money"

"Yes, no problem no problem"

Receiving curious looks from the kids we sit on a carpet out the front of his tent drinking Pespsi...

"You like?"

"Yes, it's nice. Thank you"

"Now how much money will you give me?"

"Nothing, sorry"

Firm hands grasp the side of my head and suddenly my face is only inches away from my hosts. Cold dark eyes are staring into mine, he makes a quick throat slitting motion then alternates between chanting and blowing in my head...

"Okay, now you can go"

I'm not entirely sure if I've just been blessed or cursed but going sounds like a great option to me :) The family finds it all very amusing and saying my thanks I hastily depart.

I manage some good kilometers before finding a nice little spot off the highway to call it a night...

Damscus 22/08/08

2008-08-29T12:59:00.000-07:00

Sleeping in, Rami wakes me letting me know his brother has made brunch. Staggering out to his verandah, feeling slightly dodgy, a big stack of Syrian Pizza things is there to greet me. Superb!!!

Heading down to Rami's shop we sit for a quick chat before returning to his verandah for nagile and Olympics. I can't believe my eyes, an Australian, who Adel and I nicknamed Zoolander after the heats, is jumping for a medal in the pole vault. It's his last attempt at 1.90 with one other jumper to go. Holding my breath a big cheer erupts from my lungs as he hits the mat safely.

Very sporting I know but all my willpower suddenly goes into ensuring the Russian flops...

Flop, flop, flop...

The Russian flops!!! Brilliant :) Zoolander picks up Australia's first mens track and field gold in 60 years. Well overdue, bloody good effort Zoolander! Then just to top it off he goes and jumps 1.96 for an Olympic record. Champion!!!

After a good few hours lounging around Alaa shows up and we grab a taxi out to Adel's Australian and New Zealand party being held in the UN compound. With cheap drinks (not that I have to buy any as whenever anyone finds out what I'm doing their straight to the bar to shout me a beer), lot's of people and heaps of food its a wonderful night.

Midnight strikes and a friend, who a few days ago also invited me to a party tonight, calls to see what I'm doing. I was going to give it a miss but I might not get another chance to see her and having never been to Jetset I decide to check it out.

The event is a going away do for a Russian girl whom I've never met, and with Russians in abundance the atmosphere is great. After catching up with Rana I end up chatting with one of the Russian diplomats...

"So, Ben. What do you think about the situation in South Ossetia?"

"I'm actually with the Russians on this one. I quite like the idea of states being able to align themselves where they like..."

He smile and nods approvingly and I continue...

"Yes, just like Chechnya"

"Aaaaaaahhhhhh" He lets out an almighty roar as his fingers close around my throat. Luckily for me he sees the funny side and soon lets me go :) Drinking with Russians is never pretty and by the time I'm ready to go I'm plastered...

Catching a taxi back to Rami's he lets me know he's still ten minutes away. Spotting a small pick-up truck across the road I can't resist...

I wake to my phone ringing...

"Ben, where are you?"

Rami can't believe his eyes when my head pops up from the back of the truck. Luckily he finds it incredibly amusing and I can see why communities where alcohol is only consumed in moderation, if at all, must think all foreigners are completely mad :)

Rami's English teacher, also a Palestinian, has dropped in to visit. Soon enough he asks my opinion on Israel and not having learned my lesson from the Russians I happily give him a drunken version of my thoughts. He listens intently and seems more interested in just listening to my opinions rather than having a debate. Luckily for me in this state :)

Pilgrimage from Damascus (Rowda) to Damascus (Philistine Camp) 21/08/08

2008-08-29T05:06:00.000-07:00

I seem to have a bit of a routine happening, wake up, do some typing, make a coffee, put on the olympics, sit on the couch :) A wonderful start to the day...

The difference today though is I'm walking again, only six or seven kilometers but still a move. Packing up all my gear and saying a big "thank you" to Fay I get to it. Stopping briefly at the internet cafe for breakfast it's pretty hot when I emerge onto the streets. Luckily not as hot as the last two days but still hot enough to make it unpleasant...

It's strange walking through a city I lived in for four months. The streets are all familiar but now being summer, are also different. I am impressed with the greenery around, in winter everything is dull and lifeless and I wasn't expecting much difference this time around. A pleasant surprise.

Walking past the Four Seasons, up to Hijaz station then due South towards Philistine camp it isn't long before the heat and the pollution start getting to me. Standing at a massive intersection gasping for air whilst getting smothered in diesel fumes it feels like my lungs are slowly filling with toxic mud. Thank God I only have another few kilometers to go... :)

The walk up Philistine Road is great. The people are all extremely welcoming and many kids come running out wanting their photo taken, even though this is still a suburb of Damascus it has the feel of a village.

Rami and Suphi are waiting when I arrive and couldn't look more pleased to see me, they are extremely happy I accepted their invite to stay out here a couple of nights. Alaa makes an appearance and we head to Suphi's house for lunch.

Over the winter I did a couple of lunches with Suphi's family and it's a always pleasure. Suphi's mum is an amazing cook and his dad, being very knowledgeable on international affairs, is always keen for a chat. I have to laugh at his summary of the Arab world today...

"Yes, the Arabs have a very good history...and a very bad present" :)

I have arranged to meet some friends at a bar so after a little rest Rami, Alaa, Suphi and I head into town. It turns out the taxi driver is one of Rami's relatives and he's a pretty entertaining guy...

"Ben, do you drink whisky?"

"Sometimes"

Reaching under his seat he turns with a big smile bearing his prize...a bottle of booze...

"Do you want a glass?"

Laughing "Yeah sure"

It just so happens he already has a glass full with ice on his dashboard. Rami takes care of filling it up...

"Enough, enough...you will kill me"

The driver turns "No problem, no problem"

Well, straight whisky isn't the way I normally like to start a night out but hey, what can I do... :)

Damascus is incredibly cheap for most things but a night out isn't one of them. The cheaper bars will charge $4 a beer while the higher end bars will charge $10. Coming from outside Syria this sounds reasonable but a good way of highlighting just how expensive it is here is comparing it to a meal. A cheap restaurant will charge $2.50 a meal with an expensive restaurant charging $10, basically one beer at a night club is the equivalent to one meal at a good restaurant!

There is one high end place that I want to check out though, Z Bar. Everyone said it wasn't worth going to during the winter because they don't open the roof, but luckily for me Wasseem and Farah have a reservation tonight and are happy to drag me along. We try to get some more people booked in but it's full :( Not to worry though, some other friends are having a house party so the boys are more than happy to socialize there...

Z Bar is amazing and I'm glad I made the effort. Perched atop the Omayad Hotel the view over Damascus is awesome and catching up with a lot of old friends it's a great night.

Talking to a cute young Korean student I decide to walk her home and passing a small park we stop for a chat. Glancing at the sky I'm amazed not a single star can be seen, just this slightly orange glowing fog :) Tai Hey has to get up early to go sightseeing so we say our farewells and I catch a taxi back to Rami's. He also had a late night and having just returned himself meets me when I pull up.

As we walk back to his house I have a moment of horror...

Where's my backpack with my camera and video camera???

This is the very reason I almost never take it out with me :( Thinking back I'm sure I had it until the park. Grabbing a cab Rami accompanies me and we and head back into town.

It's getting light by the time we reach the park but my confidence is still high, there is hardly a soul on the streets. Jumping out of the taxi I race across to where we were sitting, have a moment of panic when it's not under the seat, then success! It's lying on the ground to the right of me :) Breathing a big sigh of relief I jump back in the taxi and head home for bed...

Damascus 20/08/08

2008-08-29T05:03:00.000-07:00

The heat ensures I'm not getting much of a sleep in, by 8am it must already be over thirty! Once again setting myself up on the couch, with the computer and the Olympics I don't end up moving till lunchtime.

One of the problems with Syrian internet is the government has blocked any site which might entertain, educate or in any way be useful to anyone (slightly exaggerated ;) ), including my blog! But I do know of one internet cafe which gives almost unrestricted access. Catching a taxi down tot he old city I'm disappointed to find the software they use doesn't work on my Mac :( but oh well, I'm only here for another few days...

I still end up spending a good couple of hours playing around before heading back to the apartment. Adel is an occupational therapist working here with UNRWA and I manage to convince her I need a massage ;) Absolutely divine! Thanks heaps :)

I have many friends I'd like to catch up with in Damascus but I'm being incredibly lazy. And also, for some reason I'm not in a very sociable mood. It's great to be able to just sit and relax for a few days...

After a fabulous Dahl dinner Adel crashes out leaving Fay and I sitting on the balcony discussing world affairs. Being a journalist for Syria Today, the major English language publication in the area, she is well informed making for an interesting sparring partner.

Catching up on some last minute writing it's time for bed. Tomorrow I'll be walking once again...

Damascus 19/08/08

2008-08-29T04:52:00.000-07:00

Waking surprisingly early I'm straight on the computer. Adel has already left for work and I can hear Fay's alarm going off every ten minutes, maybe she needs some help... ;)

"Good morning. Do you want me to make you a coffee?"

"Aaaarggghhh. Yes please!"

Fay goes to work and heading down to a local cafe with wireless the morning is spent catching up on emails and watching the Olympics. Arriving home around noon I crash out again and don't reemerge into the world until 3pm.

I'd promised Rami I'd come and visit today so dragging myself off the couch I jump in a taxi and head to Philistine, one of the Palestinian camps on the outskirts of the city. Funnily enough, before reaching Damascus whenever I heard someone talking about "Palestinian camps" I imagined tents in the middle of the desert. I was very surprised to find the "camps" are actually thriving little towns :)

Rami owns a hairdressing salon and it isn't long before he has me bundled up for a haircut and a shave. Cheers mate :) Inviting me to his house for lunch we have a great feed of stuffed capsicums, soup, grapes and funny wonton things which are awesome. Lying on the couch smoking nagile, drinking tea and watching Argentina demolish Brazil in the soccer, it's a wonderful way to spend the afternoon.

Heading back the apartment Wasseem and Farah ring to take me to dinner. These two are awesome, two of my best friends from living here and picking me up we head down to the English pub in the Sherraton. Nice choice guys, cheers :)

After another great feed I have one more stop to make before calling it a night. A few more friends are meeting in the old city for a beer so after making my way down there and catching up on all the goss it's I'm ready for bed...

Pilgrimage from Dummar to Damascus (Rowda) 18/08/08

2008-08-27T10:22:00.000-07:00

Excited knowing I'll be walking into Damascus today I'm up and about early. The problem is the store owners aren't and I'm starving...

I seem to have completely lost the highway, which isn't a bad thing, but it means I now have no idea where I am or where I will enter the city. I always imagined walking into Damascus through Mezze, but with the Mezze apartment buildings in view 8kms north it's not to be.

Taking a rest outside a military facility a police car pulls up behind me. The officer doesn't even say a word and just motions for me to follow. Without realizing I've set myself up on the lawn of a police station :) Entering a small office another officer is at his desk watching television...

"Here, take a seat"

I sit, waiting for the questions to start regarding why I'm sitting with two cameras on their front lawn across from a military facility, but both seemed captivated by the TV. It's then that I realize Noor is on and I know I'm safe. This Turkish soap is watched with religious zeal by men and woman alike throughout this part of the world. I don't know if this is just an urban rumor circulated within foreign circles but the word on the street is Noor shows three episodes a day which all run on from each other. I join them watching for ten minutes before politely taking my leave...

"Where are you from?"

"Australia"

"Welcome. Welcome"

There focus returns to the television and that's that :) Reaching a small river, which I never new existed, I a locate a small shop for a breakfast of chocolate and juice. This will give me the energy I need till Damascus...

A beautiful restaurant perched over the river appears before me and I can't resist stopping for a rest. The owner comes for a chat and I notice some backgammon boards on the counter...

"Can you play?"

"What, you can play backgammon?"

"Yes, do you want a game?"

Laughing "Okay, sure"

Unfortunately he doesn't know the game I play, rather another version I know the rules of but haven't much strategy. He obviously wasn't expecting that I could play anyway so he's not too disappointed when he beats me convincingly.

The walk up the river valley is wonderful and before long I make Al Umawiyeen square...

Aaaaaahhhh....Back in Damascus :)

Finding a cafe for lunch I sit and wait till 3pm, when Adel will arrive home. Adel and Fay are two wonderful young woman who are here in Damascus for the long haul. They rent an amazing apartment in Rowda and are kind enough to let me stay a couple of days...

Walking to their house Adel is waiting and it's great to catch up, neither of us can believe it's been five months since we last met! She is about to take a friend down to a juice bar, which I was meant to go to for the entire time I lived here and never managed to, and I happy to tag along.

Wasseem use to work a juice bar in England and bought the concept back here. His shop is amazing with literally hundreds of different juice cocktails to choose from. Divine!!!

Arriving back to the apartment Fay's home and we decide to do dinner, settling on Chinese it's a short taxi ride to Mezze. The meal is superb, enjoyed with a couple of glasses of wine and great conversation it's a perfect evening...

Pilgrimage from El Manara to Dummar 17/08/08

2008-08-27T10:05:00.000-07:00

The orchard workers have been at it a while by the time I fully wake, checking my watch I'm surprised it's still only 7am. My hosts from last night reappear to wish me luck and I get straight into it.

My spirits are high knowing I will be back in Syria by lunchtime. Lebanon has been amazing to walk through, the people couldn't be more friendly or the nature more beautiful but there's always a slight unease in the air meaning I'm never fully relaxed. The heavily controlled environment in Syria is suddenly feeling very appealing ;)

A young guy stops and invites me for coffee. Even though his house is a little out of my way I can't resist, he is just too friendly :) The whole family is in his backyard when we arrive and they couldn't be more welcoming to this strange young man that's just been dragged in off the street. Getting a quick tour of the farm they let me know I'm welcome to stay anytime I'm back in the area. Cheers guys :)

The border is closer than I thought and before long I'm in no-mans land between the two countries. A huge line of trucks is banked up on the side of the road waiting to pass the Lebanese border and I don't even need to make Syria before I get my first invite for tea :) The truck drivers are well prepared with little picnics set up and it doesn't look like they are in any hurry...

"So, how long will you guys stay here?"

"One day, maybe two"

"One or two days!!!" I couldn't understand the reason why they wait so long but it's a bit bizarre, no wonder they look so well set up :)

Winding my way upwards the Syrian border finally comes into sight with a big "Welcome to Syria" sign perched on the ridge. Even though the immigration offices still aren't in sight a soldier walks out of the hills and stops me a meter into Syrian territory...

"What are you doing?"

"Walking to Damascus?"

He doesn't look happy and keeps asking a question I can't understand, I finally I realize he just wants to check that I receive a stamp from the Lebanese immigration. Finding the correct page in my passport leaves him with a big smile and he waves me through.

Another kilometer down the road I pass a military base. A young guy about eighteen spots me from the gate and rushes out to see what's going on. He's another one of these kid soldiers who gets incredibly freaked out by my presence, but I have to say I'm glad the Syrian's haven't seen fit to give this one a gun... :)

"Forbidden! Forbidden! What are you doing?"

"Walking to Damascus"

"No!!! It's forbidden! You can't! It's forbidden! Where is you passport?"

I get the feeling I'm going to be driven the last kilometer and start wishing I met this guy before walking up the hill ;) An older soldier comes out to see what the fuss is about and feeling uneasy about the look in the kids eye I give my passport to the him instead. He starts flicking through and both of us can't help laughing as the young guy continuously attempts to snatch it out of his hands. It is very comical but finally he succeeds and with his prize in his hands turns to me...

"Follow me!"

I have a moment of panic realizing the kid might be the officer, not good! Following him toward the entrance another officer appears causing my escort to snap to attention so fast the air cracks...

"This man is walking!!! He is from Australia!"

The officer takes my passport, gives my a quick look up and down, hands the document back to me without even glancing at it and dismisses me with a wave and a big smile. I do feel a bit sorry for the kid, who's still acting like a flagpole, that his prize catch is so easily released, giving him a friendly smile I turn and continue on...

Now that I've past the gate the soldiers in the hills must realize I'm not a threat to anyone and it's a bit surreal listening to them call out from around their posts...

"Welcome to Syria" "Hello" "Hello" "Welcome" "How are you" "Hello" "Welcome"

A small group leaves their positions and comes running down for a chat. They are intrigued with my story and wish me well. Before long I'm standing in front of the immigration officer waiting to be interrogated as he flicks through my passport...

"So, you are studying in Damascus are you?"

"Yes"

"Welcome"

A minute later I have a new visa and can't believe how fast he was. But this is a pattern I've noticed while traveling. If I come in and out of a country two or three times within a short period the questions become more and more serious, then suddenly after the fourth or fifth they don't care at all. I suppose they figure if I'm doing something wrong it was someone else's job to pick up on it ;)

The first thing I notice walking down the highway is a change in the hills, going from steep and rocky to...a different steep and rocky. Hard to explain in words but definitely a change ;) And the best news is it's almost all downhill to Damascus.

I wouldn't mind a hotel tonight so when a turnoff to Al Dimas appears I go to investigate. I get many strange looks walking through town but the people who do stop couldn't be more friendly. The first restaurant I pass sells mini pizza things so sitting on the footpath a have a snack. Some locals drop by bearing drinks and small snacks and when I go to leave they don't let me pay :)

Continuing on through town I decide to get a proper meal before leaving, I don't know what I'm likely to find elsewhere. I have the choice of roast chicken, chicken kebab, or roast chicken. I try to find someone to sell me half a chicken but no luck. A whole chicken or nothing...

"If you don't want a whole chicken wait ten minutes and the kebab will be ready"

The kebab hasn't even started cooking yet so I don't quite trust Hani's estimate...

"No, trust me! I know, I'm the shop owner. Ten minutes...one hundred percent"

Laughing "Okay, can I have a Pepsi while I wait?"

Finishing my drink fifteen minutes has past and the kebab still hasn't started cooking...

"Five minutes! Five minutes! It will be ready in five minutes I promise"

"Sorry mate, I'll keep going but thanks anyway..."

One thing that takes a lot of getting use to as a Western man in an Arab country is the colorful way friends greet and talk to each other. The amount of "My baby", "My sweetheart", "I miss you", "I love you" that is thrown around between friends is quite disturbing to the uninitiated. But sometimes I still get completely thrown...

"Ben, I love you. I love you"

"Thanks"

"Ben, you me friends, yes?"

"Yes, friends"

"I will miss you. I will miss you. Do you have a telephone number?"

"Yes, of course...here" We swap numbers...

"Okay, you will call me, yes? Call me just to say "Hani I love you"

"Okay, I will call..."

To this point the conversation may sound a bit extreme but I have to say from my experience it is "reasonably" normal. His next action completely stumps me though...

Grinning like a cheshire cat he traces a heart in the air "Hani Ben Looooooovvvvvve"

I'm speechless. Opening and closing my mouth a couple of times he's left me with absolutely nothing to say. With his grin still plastered from ear to ear I just smile, wave and disappear :) The problem is that this is not meant in any way other than friendship. Whenever I've pointed out to my Arabic friends that to a Westerner they sound extremely gay they are shocked, it doesn't even come into their reality. In Australia this same conversation would go something like...

"Hey mate, your alright. Here's my number, if your ever in the area again let me know, we'll go for a beer or something..."

Stopping for tea and a chat with a few fruit sellers along the way I'm pleasantly surprised when rounding a corner Damascus comes into view. It's still 20kms away but still, I must have covered good kilometers today.

Feeling pleased with myself I find a plantation of small trees to set my camp up for the night. It's been a while since I set camp in daylight...

Pilgrimage from Barouk to El Manara 16/08/08

2008-08-26T05:29:00.000-07:00

Waking early knowing there are houses nearby I'm on the road by 7am. The temperature is perfect and the clean mountain air works quickly to clear my head. With a gorgeous view over the surrounding hills the morning couldn't be better and it isn't long before I reach the entrance to the national park.

There's not a sole to be seen and it's wonderful to have the whole place to myself. The climb is hard but after a couple of rest I finally make some good sized cedars :) I have to admit, coming from Australia I was expecting cedars as far as the eye could see but it's not the case. Patches of small cedar are common with larger ones scattered around. Yusouf told me last night there are some trees so wide a car would disappear behind them, so I keep my eyes peeled.

The tar road ends next to the biggest patch of trees so far, I take it this is one of the main tourist attractions. There are two paths heading into the tress but still no super sized cedars to be seen. After a quick investigation I decide to continue on until I reach the big ones :)

Two kilometers later I'm horrified when the national park finishes! I don't believe it!!! If there was some traffic I'd hitch back but it isn't to be :( The super size cedars will have to wait...

My other problem is I was expecting some tourist facilities up here and have already run out of water. The hills are completely empty which leaves me slightly concerned, especially as the roads aren't matching up to my map.

Clearing a ridge I'm pleased an army checkpoint comes into sight. I'm incredibly lucky they are here as not only do I get to fill up my water but left to my own devices I would have headed down the wrong side of the mountain :)

The really good news is I've reached the last ridge and am closer to my destination than I thought. From here it's all downhill. I can see Joub Jannine, where I want to stop for lunch but the road winds and winds and winds and after a couple of hours I still haven't reached the bottom.

Absolutely exhausted I stagger into a service station collapsing on their couch. I don't know why I'm so buggered but glancing at the clock I realize I've been walking 5½ hours with only small breaks. And I still have 5kms to go...

Pushing on I can't believe my luck when 500m down the road I come across Chateau Kefraya, a winery :) And not just a winery...a winery with a great looking restaurant attached. Perfect!!!

Getting a few funny looks as I find a table I figure they don't get too many backpackers walking in off the street. The menu looks great and isn't too expensive...

"Beef stroganoff, a salad and a glass of red please"

"Sorry, we don't serve wine by the glass"

"Hmmm, do you have half bottles?"

"Yes, of course. I recommend the rosé"

Okay, he's twisted my arm. Half a bottle it is ;) "Sounds great"

The meal is good but being mass produced for tour groups it's is a bit disappointing, the good news is though the wine is great. Figuring if they have one good wine they must have more it's time for the best part of any winery tour...the tasting :)

And I have to say that I'm impressed with the quality of their entire range, with the price to match. Since leaving Europe good wine has been hard to find but if this winery is anything to go by wine lovers won't be disappointed holidaying in Lebanon...

Feeling very pleased with myself I don't make it far before some kids come running out of a tent village wanting their photo taken. I'm happy to oblige and soon enough I've been invited in by the parents for tea. Having a quick chat I set off only to make 200m before again getting dragged in off the street :)

By the time it gets dark I'm in another little town attempting to locate a restaurant. The only place open is a sandwich shop and after eating such great food over the last week it seems rather fitting to spend what is likely my last meal in Lebanon eating a felafel role by candle light, as once again here is a blackout :)

Leaving the village a group of young kids, probably thirteen or fourteen stop for a chat. They are intrigued by my adventure and every time we say "good bye" they find another excuse to run back up the road to chat.

I can see the lights of a big village and figure this is likely to be where I'll locate the highway to Syria. Finding a small road heading in that direction I veer off...

"Ben! Ben! Where are you going?"

I wait for one of my little mates to catch up "This isn't my road?"

"No...The road to Syria is down there. Trust me, I've lived here my whole life. Go down this road until the big intersection then turn left"

"Okay, thanks"

"Good bye"

Luckily someone was looking out for me :) I head off on my new route but don't make it far before I yelling starts up behind me again...

"Ben! Ben!"

Waiting once more the same guy runs up accompanied by one of his friends...

"Here take this. For energy"

They hand me a pack of chips and a juice...champions!!! Thanks guys :)

The walk is pleasant but gets broken up by road blocks that have started appearing regularly. The soldiers really don't know what to make of me but after hearing my story they all think it's great. The best thing is there are no warnings from anyone as I leave, this does wonders for my confidence :)

Around 10pm I think I've hit the jackpot spotting what appears to be a hotel or public baths, just what I need! My joy is short lived though...it's a hospital :( A couple of the doctors are sitting around on the front stairs happy to chat, suddenly one of the points to the moon...

"Look at that!"

We all glance up and can't believe our luck to be witnessing an eclipse! Awesome!!!

The shadows slow progress is a bit too slow for my liking so I take my leave and continue walking, keeping one eye upwards to ensure I don't miss the climax. With only a thin section left to cover I spot an orchard which looks perfect for camping. A quick glance around ensures the coast is clear and I go to investigate.

Some movement catches my eye from an apartment building next door and I can see a man leaning over watching me. Better go explain...

"Is it okay if I camp in there?"

"Camping? No, but you can camp down there" He points to the orchard on the other side

"Cool, thanks"

I start to set up and the guy comes down to invite me to watch the eclipse at the picnic table round the back. We sit and chat waiting for the last little piece of the moon to disappear, but it never does :( Finally around 1am we call it a night and lying in my tent I can't help thinking what a perfect pilgrim's day I've just experienced...

Pilgrimage from Naame to Barouk 15/08/08

2008-08-20T04:49:00.000-07:00

Urrrrgh! What a night...

Between the mosquitoes, the heat and jumping out of my skin at every little noise I'm not even certain I managed a minute of sleep. But finally the room starts to brighten and I know dawn isn't too far away. Packing up my gear I head to the highway ready to face the day...

Now, I'm not completely mad :) Like I was saying yesterday, I might be scared right now but the world hasn't changed...only the way I'm viewing it has. If I can continue to interact with the world the same way I have for the last eight months then I know the world will continue to treat me the same. But saying that, if i have any bad experiences today I'm straight back to Beirut ;)

And I'd like to take this opportunity to give you my view on fear. The way I see it, the universe gave humans the ability to feel and the ability to rationalize. We should use them both. Feelings give us an indication of the state of the world as experienced by our individual minds. They are the filters in which the world interacts with us and we interact with the world. Fear gives us a warning that something might not be right, we then have the opportunity to think rationally about the situation and then make a decision. I believe too many people react solely based on fear, forgetting to utilize their God given ability to rationalize...

A perfect example of this is SARS. When this disease first came into the headlines I was planning a trip to Asia with my girlfriend. Almost every day we were warned by friends and family not to go because of the dangers of this horrendous new disease. It was my girlfriends first major overseas trip so we went to visit a travel doctor before leaving. The appointment finishes...

"Do you know you are the first people I have had through here in a month that haven't asked me about SARS!"

"Why would I be worried about a disease that hasn't even killed 100 people when we are going to countries which have diseases that have killed millions?"

The doctor couldn't agree more and went on to explain he also tells people they have nothing to worry about. Funny, the experts say there is nothing to worry about and yet irrational fear leads thousands of people to cancel their holidays...

The road is quiet and the temperature is perfect for walking. All in all a great morning. A young guy is walking towards me on the same side of the road. Taking a deep breath I catch his eye, smile and nod...

"Good morning"

The warmth in his smile immediately reassures me and cheers me up immensely...

"Good morning"

I stop for breakfast and explain what I'm doing to the owner. He couldn't be more happy for me and with no "be careful" or "you can't do that it's dangerous up there" my confidence starts to return.

Turning East towards the Shouf my roads starts to ascend into the mountains. With my new found confidence my cameras reemerge from the pack and I'm once again walking with a bounce in my step.

My only problem is it's hot. Incredibly HOT! By the time I stop for brunch my shirt looks like I have worn it swimming. A couple of young guys come to chat, inviting me back to their house for tea. Unfortunately it's a bit out of the way so I have to decline, but thanks guys :)

Staggering into Deir El Qamar around 12:30 I'm pleased with my progress, it's always a great feeling to manage 20kms before lunch. This place use to be the capital of Lebanon and is a bit of a tourist hub. The town center is cute but the highlight for me is the huge plate of spaghetti I'm served for lunch. Awesome :)

Continuing into the mountains my progress becomes slower and slower while my breaks becoming more and more frequent...but I'm determined to make Barouk before calling it a day. Stopping at an internet cafe I'm pleased no end when I emerge to find I'm now in the clouds. Much better walking conditions :)

Night falls and finally around 21:00 Barouk comes into sight. Passing a restaurant the owner, Yusouf, invites me in for a drink and explains that the entrance to the National Park, where I'll find the cedars, is only 5-6kms away.

Finishing the day with a steep hill is never much fun but unless I want to camp in the middle of town I don't have much choice. Struggling to reach the edge of the village I find a perfect camp spot and call it a night...

Pilgrimage from Beirut (City Center) to Naame 14/08/08

2008-08-19T02:23:00.000-07:00

Waking early, wanting to do some last minute things on the net I'm not too impressed there's a blackout. It seems to be a bit of a regular occurrence in these parts :( Packing my gear, I grab a taxi over to Max's for breakfast so I can check out his maps...and to see if he can convince me to take a slightly longer route to Damascus :)

"See, this honey is from the Shouf mountains. Delicious isn't it. You have to go!"

"Okay, where's your map. Give me a look..."

Heading to the lounge room Max spreads the map on the floor...

"The way you have planned to go is straight over here, but this is boring and highway the whole way. Now, you have hardly seen anything of Lebanon so you have to walk around Beirut along the coast here, past Pigeon Rock, then follow the coast to here. Then head into the mountains, through the Shouf valley and over to Syria here..."

I look closely and figure he is probably right, looks like a much more enjoyable walk. Even though it will add a day or two extra I will finally get to see some cedars!

"Okay, you've convinced me" :)

Saying a big "Thank you" for breakfast and his advice, I head off to find a taxi back to the hotel.

Last time I was in Beirut I discovered THE most disgusting public toilets on the face of the planet, located in the bus station right near my hotel. Now, I have seen some shockers before and I'm sure many of you complain about the state of the public toilets in your area but this was something else!!!

Imagine a toilet where the bowl gets so full shit starts leaking over the sides. Then imagine that people start shitting on the floor till the toilet cubicle floor is completely covered. Then imagine that people keep using the public toilet, shitting on the floor until it reaches the entrance. Then imagine that someone goes and puts stepping stones all the way back to the original cubicle so another two inches of shit can be piled on top!!!

Unfortunately, last time I didn't feel the need to get it on film but I've come to the conclusion it will make a good U-Tube video. I head down to relocate this extraordinary phenomena but it's locked :( Judging by the smell emanating from within it still hasn't been cleaned, hopefully I will never find out...

The coastal walk is stunning and I'm surprised how few people are swimming considering the size of the city. Hitting pigeon rock confirms I made the right decision in coming this way. Amazing!!!

Passing a military road block the scenery suddenly changes. The beach hotels, fancy restaurants and highrise disappear, replaced with shacks, workshops and factories. Stopping for lunch I notice prices have gone back to normal as well :)

Invites for coffee suddenly start coming in abundance and even though the people to the north are welcoming, the warmth and enthusiasm displayed down here is hard to match. Passing a mechanic shop and feeling like a break Ahmed and Hanan invite me in for a drink. I try to refuse the beverage, Arabic coffee served in a cup normally used for nescafe, knowing if I finish my heart will likely stop, but refusing isn't an option ;)

A missile is positioned in the middle of the road and I'm only half sure it's for ornamentation...

"Can I take a photo of that?"

"Sure, go ahead"

After taking some pictures we sit and chat and I find out Ahmed is Syrian while Hanan is Turkish. Finishing the coffee I prepare to leave when a guy walks up to us...

"Come with me"

"Nah...I'm alright, cheers" :)

"No, come with me!"

Laughing "No, I'm fine. Thanks"

He grabs me by the arm and rather unceremoniously lifts me to my feet...

"Come"

I look to my hosts to see their reaction and find them staring blankly into space, ignoring everything going on around them. The penny drops. This guy isn't inviting me for a Pepsi, I'm probably having my first run in with Hezbollah. Time to show a bit more respect :)

I give him a big smile walk with him a short distance down the road...

"I hear you have been taking pictures of this area"

"Yes"

"Show me"

Grabbing the camera I start top flick through, impressed that apart from the missile they all look harmless...

"Ok, delete them all"

"All! I'll delete the ones from this area but I'm not deleting them all"

"Delete them all or I'm taking the camera"

Our eyes lock...

"Only this area"

"Delete them or I'm taking your camera!"

"Only this area"

He can't help braking a small smile...

Giving me a dismissive wave "Just start deleting them"

Phew :) I don't mind losing this afternoon's photos but four days worth would be a bastard. After checking my passport and walkie-talkieing in the details the guy comes back smiling...

"Don't worry. This is just normal, you have nothing to be afraid of"

"No problems" I do actually understand :)

"Okay, stand here. We have to search your bag"

I sit down and my heart starts to race, now I'm really wishing I didn't finish that coffee. I'm not worried for my own safety but rather for all my equipment and the last few weeks video. I really doubt they will be interested in having a video night with five hours worth of my holiday just to see if I have anything suspicious. Much more likely they will just destroy them :( And also, with two video cameras, a still camera, a laptop, fifteen video cassettes and a bag full of wires I probably don't look like a normal backpacker. I'm sure they will not hesitate to confiscate anything they feel is unusual...

I have money stashed in three different locations throughout my bag and they find them all. Looking closely to see if any gets taxed any I'm pleased with their professionalism, they guy doesn't even look twice at the big wad. After thoroughly searching all the smaller pockets he opens the main section and my heart feels like it's about to explode. The first thing he spots is my computer...

"This is a laptop?"

"Yes"

"Okay, wait here. Someone is coming to talk with you"

I breath another sigh of relief. After discovering my laptop the rest of my bag gets left unsearched. A big four wheel drive pulls up and the driver speaks perfect English. We go through all the formalities, he has a quick look through my computer then he tells me to hop in the car.

"How do you like Lebanon?"

"It's a beautiful country! And the people couldn't be more friendly, it's great"

"Yes, welcome to Hezbollah Lebanon"

I can't help but laugh. And I have to admit I'm also slightly relieved. Before this I was just assuming they were Hezbollah, but really they could have been anyone...

"You are not scared?"

"I know I'm not doing anything wrong so I've got no reason to be scared"

Which is true. If I really believed that Hezbollah were a bunch of blood thirsty madmen hell bent on beheading as many foreigners as humanly possible I wouldn't be walking around the south of Lebanon :)

"So where will you finish your walk?"

"In Jerusalem"

He leans over and turns the radio on. Obviously as much as he wants to discuss about that :)

"I'm going to be walking through the Shouf mountains towards Syria. Does Hezbollah mind me walking around?"

"No, not at all. You are welcome. I will take ten minutes of your time then you are free to walk wherever you want"

"Thanks"

Driving for about ten minutes we pull into a carpark, the guy turns to me...

"Do you know where you are?"

"I'm pretty sure this is the same road you picked me up on, just farther south"

Shrugging "Bring your two cameras, the laptop and your phone. Leave your bag here"

Heading into a little office another guy is smiling when I enter...

"Welcome"

"Thanks"

"Now, what are you doing here?"

I give him my story and he seems convinced, he takes my phone, passport and laptop into the next room. I sit and wait...

"Benjamin"

"Yes"

"We will take a copy of your passport to keep on file. This is normal. You don't need to be afraid"

"No problems"

"Now Ben, do you know where you are?"

"Aaaah, no" Mental note...When walking in a country with numerous heavily armed groups controlling various regions do some research... ;)

"You are in Ash Shiyah. You can't just walk around taking photos here. Why were you taking photos?"

Laughing "I only took photos from the highway, I'm not sneaking down side streets or anything"

Smiling back "Okay Ben, look! Here in Ash Shiyah, in Tripoli, in Beirut and in the Shouf you can't take photos whenever you want. In Lebanon always ask before you take photos"

"Okay, lesson learnt"

The driver comes over with my computer and sits next to me. we start flicking through some photos and he has his arm around my shoulders, very cosy :)

"Do you know Wasseem?"

I know about twenty Wasseems and my mind starts racing as to who he means or whether he is just fucking with me. Suddenly I remember one of my friends from Damascus rang yesterday...

"Yes, from Syria"

The guy doesn't respond and we continue to flick through the photos...

"Okay Ben, you can go now. If you have any problems come and see us, do you think you can find this place again?"

Shrugging "Probably, don't know"

"Then maybe we will see you again"

We all wish each other luck and I collect my bag from the car. Jumping in a taxi it isn't long before I'm back where I was originally nabbed. Ahmed seems pretty happy to see me but Hanan gives me a small wave and looks like she's wishing I would disappear quick smart. Don't blame her really :)

Making another five kilometers along the highway a guy about twenty-five pulls up on a scooter while I'm talking on the phone...

"Please, hang up and call back later?"

"Okay, no problem" I assume this is another Hezbollah check...

"Have you been questioned by anyone today?"

"Yes, I was just questioned by Hezbollah about an hour ago"

"Are you Tony?"

"No, Ben"

"Give me your passport"

Dropping my bag I hand him the document. He quickly flicks through then points into the bag...

"What's that?"

"Video cassettes"

"No, that!"

"My wallet"

"Give me a look"

I hand him my wallet and he does a quick search. Suddenly he scoops the money out and I snatch the wallet back, then make a grab for the money only to end up with a few receipts. This guy is obviously not Hezbollah. I take another swipe at my money...

"Ben, Stop!"

Our eyes meet and he takes a step back, lifting his shirt to display a big knife...

"Do you want me to kill you?"

"Aaaaah, no"

"Good"

He hops on his bike and rides off...

"See you tomorrow"

"Yeah mate, see you tomorrow" Wanker...

So there it is. After more than 6000kms I've finally been robbed :) Bit of a bastard but one of those things that I'd resigned myself to happening. Just like in Turkey I'd resigned myself to the fact I would probably get bitten by a dog and I think it is just pure luck that I didn't.

And I have to say I'm very lucky this guy only got $20. The whole journey I've probably walked less than 100kms without my cameras in hand but after my run in with Hezbollah earlier my cameras are safely packed away :) Saying that though, if this guy had turned up asking silly questions at any other time I wouldn't have even paused long enough to give him a response. Instead I ended up giving him my wallet :)

So with my nerves really on edge I continue on. Two kilometers later a police car pulls up...

"What are you doing?"

Sighing "Walking to Damascus"

"What!?! No, what are you doing?"

"Walking to Damascus"

"Where is your passport?"

I hand it to him and he talks to his mate...

Giving me a hard stare "Benjamin, what are you doing here?"

"Just walking"

"Do you have something illegal in your bag?"

Laughing "No"

"Do you have a camera?"

"Yes"

"Give me a look"

I hand him the camera and I think the fact it's point and shoot makes him lose interest. I obviously don't look like a journalist with that...

"Okay Ben, you really can't walk here, this place is very dangerous! Take a taxi back to Beirut and if you want to walk to Damascus walk the highway"

"I'm going to go see the Cedars in the Shouf mountains"

"There are guys out here who will kill you over ten dollars. You can't walk around here!"

I don't want to tell him I just met one, I figure that will just reinforce the idea that I'm going to get killed and they will probably physically put me in a taxi themselves. Can't blame them really, if I'm found on the side of the road bleeding to death I'm sure these two will be the ones cleaning up the mess :)

I decide to see how dangerous they really think it is out here, regardless of the fact I just got robbed in broad daylight that might have just been an anomaly...

"Am I safe to walk around here in the day time?"

"In the day time you are fine. A night...wow!!! Don't do it!"

I think I'll take that advice... :)

"Okay Ben, do you want me to stop a taxi for you?"

"No, thanks. I can get one"

"Go back to Beirut, walk the highway! My grandmother is from Jerusalem. Good luck and God bless"

I have to admit, the thought of going back to Beirut is extremely tempting...

Do I feel safe out here?

Absolutely not :)

But this is one of the funny things with fear. I know the planet is exactly the same as it was five hours ago when I didn't have a care in the world, I've just had a bad evening. Rather than run away I'll find somewhere safe to sleep before it gets dark and see how I feel tomorrow.

Continuing on I don't make it far before a resort appears before me. What luck :) Perfect for some peace of mind. I don't really care what the price is as tonight I need it! But I'm pleased when the sign above reception indicates a single is $50...

"Do you have a room available for tonight, one person?"

The receptionist turns to the guy behind the desk who in turn looks to another guy sitting in the corner...

"How much should we charge him?"

Shrugging "$50"

"No, we can get more..."

They obviously assume I can't speak any Arabic and can't read their sign. The guy behind the desk turns to me with a big smile...

"For you $75"

"I'll give you $30"

He doesn't look impressed and I probably don't either...

"If you want the room you can have it for $60, that is it. If you don't want to pay $60 then you can go"

Probably not the best day to walk out on principal but fuck him! Don't like the guy anyway so I turn and leave. If there's one resort along the beach here there must be more...

But twenty minutes later it's starting to get dark and I still haven't had any luck. Spotting an apartment building under construction I run over for a look. Finding a great room on the fourth floor I set myself up, ensuring that I can't be seen from any of the windows.

Laying there, trying to get to sleep I realize I'm terrified. For the first time on the entire journey I'm pleased to say I'm overrun with complete, jumping at shadows, irrational fear...

Do I wish I had taken the hotel or gone back to Beirut?

Absolutely!

But the decision has been made. Now it's dark I'm not going anywhere till morning, curling up I attempt to sleep...

One thought keeps running through my head...

"Yep Max, "Go South". Great choice mate!" ;)

Beirut 13/08/08

2008-08-19T02:09:00.000-07:00

For some reason I wake incredibly early and with nothing else to do jump on the net. Turning on the TV I find the Olympics and happily wait for Ladile to wake...

She doesn't :) So around 10am I go give her a prod...

"Do you want to go for breakfast?"

"Urrrgh, no way! I'm going back to sleep. And my friend will pick me up after she finishes school in half an hour..."

She instantly crashes back out and sleeps till her friend arrives. Saying "Thanks and goodbye" she leaves me to it and I continue to play on the computer while watching the games.

Feeling extremely hungry I head into town to locate some spaghetti. The meals wonderful and a very content pilgrim heads back to his apartment. I open the computer and before I know it I'm out cold.

Waking to the phone ringing I see it's Max, the German guy I met in Latakya...

"Hey there, do you want to go for a beer tonight?"

"What's the time?"

"Seven"

Wow! I must have been tired, the day has disappeared. Arranging to meet Max at 20:30 I go for a shower and try to make myself feel human.

Beirut is an incredible city!!! Once again all the bars are packed and there is a fun energy in the air. Max's friends are good value, one of the guys plays in a Death Metal band and it isn't long before he drags me to the next bar to meet the rest of the crew. The singer is Armenian and reminds me so much of Christos from Greece.

Talking about the fate of Lebanon the conversation turns to a the possibility of a united Arabistan...

"Aaaaah, couldn't think of anything worse!!!"

Laughing "Why is that?"

"Armenians have a hard enough time here when we are 4% of the population. If all the Arab countries unite we wouldn't be any percent at all!"

Different sides to every story isn't there... ;)

Pilgrimage from Beirut (City Mall) to Beirut (City Center) 12/08/08

2008-08-19T01:54:00.000-07:00

We all sleep in again and by the time we leave the house it's after 10am. Ryan and Jen offer me a lift down to the main road, deciding on the way they can't let me leave without trying the "best (something) in the world". Driving down to their local take-away they shout me breakfast...

I have tried a lot of toasted sandwich looking things in my life and this one definitely rates up there! Absolutely awesome!!! A perfect way to start the day, cheers guys :)

Finding a service taxi going to City mall is a bit of a mission but finally I succeed. It's always a good feeling to start walking knowing I only have 5-10kms for the day. The highway is busy, making for a noisy smelly morning and spotting a big road turning off, I head West.

My hotel is located on the northern coastline of the peninsular, which I thought would be extremely easy to find but before I know it I've lost the coast and have highways going everywhere. Time to ask for directions...

The good news is my hotel is only 3kms away so it isn't long before I'm at their doorstep. One of my friends use to live in the apartments, owned by the hotel, across the road so I ask if they have a room free there. I'm in luck and with a big room and wireless internet $20 a night is a bargain :)

Setting myself up, I have a quick shower before heading out to explore my area. Beirut is an extremely beautiful city with a wide variety of architecture. The military presence is quite strong though and the main restaurant district is completely cordoned off. No cars allowed inside and armed soldiers search every bag before entry.

And the best thing is I get sushi for lunch. Wonderful!!!

Heading back to the apartment Ken, my flatmate makes an appearance and invites my to a movie showing in the evening. Sounds great :)

And it is! The movie is Korean and is being shown in Club 43, a cool little place located in Gemayze dedicated to promoting religious tolerance throughout Lebanon. They have regular meetings discussing the problems facing their country and the Christian members often attend prayers with their Muslim friends while the Muslim members attend prayers with their Christian friends. Sounds like such a simple thing to do but it's amazing how radical this idea is to many people. It reminds me of a time in Nicaragua when I was spending time with some young Israelis...

I had been hanging out with these guys for a couple of days, they were great fun to be around and appeared to be extremely open minded. Coming home one day from wandering the town one of the guys looks incredibly distraught...

"What's wrong?"

"I've been crucified!!!"

Laughing "What?"

"I've been crucified!!! A woman down the street just crucified me!"

I look to his friends trying to get some help but they just laugh and shrug. He calms down and I find out he had just been blessed by an old woman in the street, which involved her tracing a cross on him with her hands. This simple act left him in a state of despair. How does it come to pass that a person feels so horrified from being blessed???

And it's this same distress I don't understand from a family whose children decide to attend prayers of a different religion. What are they all so afraid of???

On the way home Ken and I decide to go for one last beer and finding a nice little bar down a side street we grab a drink. It ends up being a good choice, before I'm chatting to this wonderful young woman by the name of Ladile. A complete nutcase but incredibly fun to talk to :)

She gets off the phone not looking so happy...

"Whats wrong?"

"My lift home just called and can't pick me up. I'm going to have to taxi home which is expensive"

"That's alright. I was planning on kidnapping you anyway" :)

Laughing "I am a Lebanese girl. You will NEVER find a Lebanese girl who will go home with you on the first night you meet"

"No seriously, my room does actually have two beds so if you do want to stay you are more than welcome"

"We'll see, but you know I have a boyfriend and nothing will happen"

"If you don't mind me trying I don't mind you saying no" :)

Shooting me a look like she doesn't quite know what to make of me she once again replies with "We'll see..."

Finishing my beer I let Ladile know I'm leaving and if she wants a place to stay she's more than welcome. Checking with her friend she must decide I'm harmless and takes me up on the offer...

"But you can't think badly of me for doing this. Lebanese girls never do this!"

It must be hard for young people in conservative cultures where simple things can be extremely damaging to their reputation. She is coming over to sleep in a separate bed and is still worried about what I will think of her. The Lebanese appear top be very open in many ways but the idea of sex before marriage is still a BIG no no...

Beirut (Perched on a Mountain) 11/08/08

2008-08-18T05:30:00.000-07:00

I'm taking a day off today and am happy to sleep in a bit. Jen and Ryan do the same and don't end up leaving for work until around 10am. Positioning myself on the couch I'm extremely pleased I'm able to find the Olympics on TV. Combined with the wireless internet throughout the house I can tell I'm not going far today ;)

And by lunchtime I haven't. The furthest I've ventured is the kitchen to make myself a tea, but getting hungry it's time to take a little walk. A hundred meters is as far as I make before Pizza Hut comes into sight...Perfect :)

Ordering take-away it's straight back to the couch. And that's where I stay till Ryan and Jen come home at 19:30. Ryan prepares another fabulous meal which we enjoy over a couple of glasses of wine.

"Time for a bourbon" Ryan declares with a big smile...

"What makes a bourbon bourbon?"

Laughing "It's made in Bourbon"

Shit hey...don't know how I managed to get through thirty years of my life and miss that one :)

Ryan goes on to explain that there is a slightly different processes involved in the preparation and brewing of whiskies from different areas, which is why they all have a distinctive taste. Removing a couple of bottles from the cabinet he gives me a sniff...

"See, can you tell the difference?"

"Aaaah, no" :) My sense of smell has never been my best asset...

"Ooop...you've done it now! looks like we will have to taste them!"

Rushing to the glasses cabinet he returns with as many cups as he can carry...

This is looking dangerous... :)

Ryan is grinning from ear to ear as he begins filling the cups, obviously thrilled with the chance to show off his whisky collection and teach an ignoramus the subtleties of whisky tasting.

"So, am I meant to give it a sniff like wine?"

"Of course! Whisky is to enjoyed with all the senses" :)

And I have to say I'm impressed with the varieties of flavor whiskies posses. Amazing what a world I've missed out on always ordering my whiskies with coke ;)

With my whisky lesson finished it's on to the couch for a movie. And for my second cultural experience of the evening I manage to make it through my first ever Sherlock Holmes movie. Might have been the whisky but I even enjoyed it!

Pilgrimage from Juniyah to Beirut (City Mall) 10/08/08

2008-08-13T09:19:00.000-07:00

Being Sunday Elie and the other workers start late and want to sleep in. Sounds great to me and I'm happy to lounge around till 10:30 when Elie makes an appearance. I only have fifteen or twenty kilometers to walk today so starting late doesn't bother me at all...

Sitting around chatting I find out why Elie is here working in a restaurant rather than in Dubai. The guy is having a bit of a rough trot to say the least. I don't know if it is fair to share all the details with you all but his story couldn't be much sadder, and is also a story that could quite easily happen to any of us. And what makes it so sad it the situation is entirely his own making, with a bit of bad luck thrown in...

What impresses my though is his dedication to his faith and his good will to others. I don't know what religion he is but almost certainly he's Christian or Muslim, and even though he doesn't know why his God made the things happen the way they happened he accepts there is nothing he can do now other than be thankful for what he has. A job, a roof over his head and friends. And even though he is going through as harder time as anyone on this planet has to go through he can still take the time out to help a passing traveller. To me this is someone who has a good understanding of what religion is all about. Cheers mate, you are a champion! :)

Making my way to Juniyah center I can't hep but be amazed at the amount of "Super Night Clubs" to be found. There's one every 100m. It's hard to believe they can all have people in them even on a busy night!

Stopping for a quick coffee Australia and Argentina are playing in the Soccer. Seventy minutes have passed and the score is 0-0. I'm impressed :) But my happiness doesn't last long. Five minutes later Argentina score and manage to hang on to win 1-0. This is one thing I'm a bit sad to miss, normally during the Olympics I hole myself up in front of the TV for the duration, I don't think I will catch too much this time around though...

It's then on to the highway for a long, straight, boring walk to Beirut. I have some Couchsurfers lined up to host me so reaching the outskirts of Beirut I give them a call and find out the best way to get to their house. The turnoff form the highway is only 500m down the road so walking there, I find a taxi and head up the hill.

Ryan and Jen are awesome. Both are American, have lived in Lebanon for five years and are very well traveled. They immediately make me feel at home and after a superb home cooked meal, a couple of glasses of wine and a good chat it's time for bed...

Pilgrimage from Batrun to Juniyah 09/08/08

2008-08-13T09:04:00.000-07:00

Waking with the alarm at 5am I'm surprised to find the beach completely deserted. Where are all the party goers??? I was told the party would continue until nine or ten in the morning so there is no reason for them not to be down here...

But I'm not complaining :) Rolling back over I go back to sleep and don't wake again till seven. Still there is only a single fisherman to be seen and the view is stunning. A perfect camping spot...

Setting off around the coast it is one hotel after another. Restaurants, swimming pools, health clubs...it all looks very European. And the good news is it all looks very safe. :)

Finding a cute little cafe for breakfast the first thing that catches my attention is their choice of pet. There in a fish tank in front of me is a baby crocodile! The owner is extremely friendly and sits down next to me while I eat...

"What do you think of Lebanon?"

"It's great. The people couldn't be more friendly and the Mediterranean is stunning"

"Yes, we have a nice spot here. It is like a little oasis inside Lebanon that is not really Lebanon at all"

"Do you ever have any trouble here?"

"Never, north of Tripoli, south of Beirut and in the mountains there is trouble. The area in here is like a little sanctuary"

I don't know if this is entirely correct or not, but by all appearances I would have to agree with her. Sanctuary indeed...

Arriving in Byblos around lunch time I immediately start searching for spaghetti, only to find something just as good...Chinese! It's a bit expensive but I'm in need of a change and it's well worth it! Wonderful!!! And I even end up with enough to take for dinner :)

For some reason I was under the impression that the old city of Byblos is a couple of kilometers to the south. I almost leave town without checking out the castle I can see, thinking that the other ruins are likely to be far more impressive. Lucky I decide to stop because the old city is located right here...

Byblos is said to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world with the ancient city dating back to 8000BC! Many civilizations have left their mark here and it is well worth a look.

Heading off towards Juniyah I pass a couple of soldiers guarding an artillery graveyard. The young one calls me over looking extremely stressed out about my camera. He is another one of these young kids with a wild look in their eyes and someone I would prefer not to be holding a gun ;)

"What is that?!?"

"A video camera"

"Why are you here?"

"Just walking to Beirut"

"Where are you from? Give me your passport"

"Australia"

The anxiety instantly disappears from his face "Aaaah, Australia! Welcome! Do you have Facebook? I want to go to Australia one day. How can I get a visa?"

"Yes, I have Facebook. But as for a visa, it's pretty hard. I don't know how you get one"

We swap emails and he leaves me to continue on. I make another 7kms before trying to locate a hotel or restaurant with wireless. After a couple of attempts I find this great bar with swimming pool, an awesome view of the Mediterranean and internet. I sit and type, have a few beers then notice a couple of young guys playing backgammon. Waiting for them to finish I challenge one of them to a game and he completely demolishes me 5-1 :) But oh well, can't win them all...

A few kilometers down the road the sun starts to sink towards the horizon, finding a nice spot on the beach I sit, relax and enjoy the sunset while finish the rest of my chinese.

Stopping at another bakery for dessert the owners are great. I could happily spend the night chatting but after half an hour decide to make a move. And they don't even let me pay :)

Passing a Russian restaurant on the outskirts of Juniyah one of the workers is sitting on the steps and calls out as I go by...

"Come sit. Have a rest"

Sounds good to me "Sure"

Elie is a really cool guy. He's Syrian but normally lives in Dubai so his English is nearly perfect.

"Where are you staying tonight?"

"Don't know. I will camp somewhere on the other side of Juniyah"

"I have an apartment free here. If you want to stay you are more than welcome. I am renovating it right now so it's a bit of a mess but if you don't mind that you are welcome"

Champion!!! "That sounds great! Thanks" :)

The apartment is wonderful and after chatting for a short while I call it a night...

Pilgrimage from Tripoli to Batrun 08/08/08

2008-08-11T09:13:00.000-07:00

Wanting to get going early the alarm goes off at 7am, but after the beers last night it's not going to happen. The alarm gets turned off and it isn't until 9am that I make a move.

I still don't have a map of Lebanon but knowing I need to stick to the coast till Beirut I'm not concerned. Hopefully I can't go too far wrong...

Not knowing what to expect as I head out of town, I'm slightly nervous making my way down the highway. It isn't long before I hit my first checkpoint, sandbags, APC, .50 calibre machine gun and all...

Taking a deep breath

Here we go again... :)

One of the best things the French left behind in Lebanon is the patisseries. Spotting a huge bakery I can't resist stopping for breakfast. A wonderful treat which gives me all the energy I need to continue.

Hitting the coast I'm pleased to say everything looks normal. Apart from that one road block there is very little military presence and with the relaxed atmosphere in the air I feel at ease. Let's hope it's like this all the way to Beirut...

Stopping for a drink I have to laugh at the sight in the car park. A mini-tank is parked with the cars :) Just to let me know things aren't completely normal... ;)

Getting another craving for spaghetti the Gods are smiling on me. I glance up to see a big sign "Pizza and Spaghetti" not 100m ahead. Perfect... :)

But it's not to be...

"Sorry, we only have pizza" :(

So, pizza it is and after a good rest I continue around the coast. The walk is nice, the view is magical and I'm feeling great.

I purchased some more Arabic lessons from the internet but all the connections so far have been too slow to download them. An internet cafe comes into sight and I go to try my luck. The download starts at a reasonable speed but I watch in dismay as it gradually gets slower and slower. But oh well, it's got to be done somewhere so might as well be here...

Four and a half hours later it finally finishes! What a mission!!! But what made the wait all worth while was chatting to the owner of the cafe. The whole time I was there he's on a flight simulator and I go to find out what the story is...

Turns out there is a complete virtual world you can get your plane license in and fly around...in real time! This guy has spent a total of over 1600 hours flying and over 150 hours being a flight controller. Yes, that's right...even the flight controllers are real people! The other planes in the air are all flown by real people and by all looks and appearances it is almost identical to flying in real life. You even have to complete all your safety checks yourself before taking off! Incredible!!!

I have been told there is a huge street party on in Batrun, where I was hoping to make it to tonight. But now I'm running late I will have to walk in the dark to get there. Not something I would be so keen on doing North of Tripoli but down here it feels a heap safer.

As it gets dark the buildings end and I'm left to follow the road, winding it's way around the headland. For some reason the smell of brown sugar is in the air and with the cool sea breeze the walk is magical. The occasional car zips past destroying my peace but all in all I'm glad I took this road rather than the highway. It may be a kilometer or two longer but well worth it.

The loud "thump thump thump" of the music can be heard well before I make it to the center of town and the streets are packed. Now I'm really wishing I came earlier to find a place to stay. The party is awesome but with my backpack I'm not keen to venture inside, finding a nice little bar to the side I stop for a drink.

The guys at the next table lean over for a chat and after finding out what I'm doing shout me a beer and offer to buy my ticket to the party. Champions!!! But unfortunately with nowhere to dump my bags I have to refuse. They let me know there is a quiet beach a kilometer north where I can camp so around 2am I drag myself away...

Locating the beach is easy and finding a perfect little clearing perched over the water I resign myself to the fact I will probably only get a few hours sleep. Being this close to such a huge party I'm sure there will be a crowd down here in the morning to watch the sunrise...

Tripoli 07/08/08

2008-08-11T03:17:00.000-07:00

I wake, glance around, get the feeling it's still early and go back to sleep...

I wake, glance around, get the feeling it's still early and go back to sleep...

I wake, glance around, get the feeling it's still early and wonder why??? Checking the time I'm amazed it's after eleven! My room is almost completely light proof :)

The plan today is to do some writing, internetting, then head up to see the famous Lebanese Cedars. I spotted a cafe last night that had wireless so I head down there for breakfast. Breakfast is great but for some reason my computer doesn't work on their connection so finding another cafe I have a coffee and get to it.

Their wireless only works in spurts an after an hour I get fed up and try my luck elsewhere. I know there is an internet cafe near the hotel so heading back there it isn't until after four I'm finished with all my work. Oh well, Cedars another day maybe...

Finding a quiet little cafe in the central park I feel at ease sitting and drinking my tea. All the apprehension from yesterday has disappeared and I make the decision to continue my journey south. Tomorrow anyway...

"Hey mate. Where you from?"

"Australia"

"So am I!"

Turns out Abu Khulie is another Lebanese Australian here for the Summer, he spends six months of the year here and six months in Oz. We enjoy the next hour drinking tea and chatting...

"So, what do you think of this area?"

"It's nice. Very relaxed and peaceful"

"Have you seen the rest of the city?"

"Some...pretty wild"

Laughing "Yes, my house is a couple of kilometers to the east. Last week they were fighting in my street! I could see them from my apartment, very different from here. If you are free for dinner come out and have dinner up there"

"Sure, sounds good"

We arrange to meet at six and I head back to the hotel to relax. I was thinking of heading up north to try to get some photos and video as yesterday I hardly got any. I figured one run in with the military was enough for the day. But now Abu Khulie has invited me up to his place I will feel a lot more comfortable getting pictures with a local present...

Catching a taxi to the address given I'm a bit disappointed with what I find. It's definitely a big difference from the city center but still not looking like a war zone like up north. The pictures will have to wait...

All the locals are super friendly and super keen to come chat, ensuring before they leave they have bought me some kind of treat :) The street is filled with mechanic shops and it seems the local kids spend all their time tuning their cars and racing up and down the road, there is a constant squeal of tires in the background. Half of them don't even have license plates but nobody seems to care...

"Do they do this every day?"

Laughing "Every day?!? More like every hour of every day! Come back at two in the morning and they'll still be at it" :)

A couple of young guys take me for a walk to show me the view of the mountains. Passing a friend of theirs sitting in his car we stop for a chat. Another car pulls up next to us and the driver starts speaking harshly. The next thing I know my guide's friend has his pistol waving at the other guy out his window, but considering my guides are laughing I take it it's all in jest. The other driver reaches into his back seat and I'm expecting an AK-47, instead he comes up with a power drill and they proceed to have a mock gun battle. I then find out the guy with the pistol is the local policeman. Makes me feel much safer :)

Finishing the walk we eat dinner and saying a big "thank you" to Abu Khulie I head back to the hotel then back to last night's bar. A young woman is sitting next to me and we start to chat...

"You will finish in Jerusalem! Be careful, isn't it a bit dangerous over there to be walking around?"

"Probably not much more dangerous than Lebanon..." Better not be anyway ;)

"What do you mean?!? Lebanon isn't dangerous! Over there they are at war"

"In some places it looks like you are at war here as well"

"No it doesn't"

"Have you ever been for a look between here and syria?"

"But all borders have a military presence"

Laughing "Not like this"

"Lebanon is safe! I've lived in Lebanon seventeen years and have never heard of anybody getting shot"

Very un-diplomatically I fall of my bar stool in a fit of laughter...

Probably not completely fair to want to shatter her illusion but I decide to give the the option anyway...

"What are you doing tomorrow morning? If you want I will give you a tour of the north side of your city..."

She looks at me like I'm a fool, politely refuses then decides she has to go... :)

Solo saw me laughing and comes to see what I found so funny...

Shrugging "Yes, some people prefer to pretend there is nothing wrong here..."

So know I feel I have met almost every type of person there is to meet in Lebanon...and it only took two days! I have met people in support of Israel, people against Israel, people who like Israelis but don't like the government, pro-Syrians, anti-Syrians, people pro-Hezbollah, people anti-Hezbollah, Christians, Muslims, Australians, an Arab who thinks all Arabs should burn in Hell, people who think all Israelis should burn in Hell and finally, tonight, a young woman who lives on a completely different planet... :)

And I wonder why this place has so many problems...

I promised the old guy at the hotel I would be home by one, so some time around midnight I make a move. Walking back to the main road along the beach I'm in my own little world when suddenly I'm snapped back to reality...

"Hey Ben! Ben!"

Glancing up I see Abu Khulie and his friends sitting at a table next to the street. I remember him saying he comes down to the water front every night for ice-cream but we are all very surprised with the coincidence. He tells me this place sells the best ice-cream in the world so I can't resist his offer to shout me one. And I have to say his claim would be close, the ice-cream is superb! :)

Pilgrimage from Lebanese Border to Tripoli 06/08/08

2008-08-10T23:52:00.000-07:00

Waking early I want to be up and about before I'm discovered to get my bearings. The beach is deserted and apart from the occasional car on the highway not a soul to be seen anywhere...

Heading off I realize my decision to set camp last night was very well timed. Meters from where I turned the beach is fenced off with barbed wire. The road is straight and flat with the majority of the buildings being military facilities. Actually, the majority of the traffic in these parts is military as well. Even most of the civilian cars are driven by people in uniform.

But still, I don't have to get far before a family invites me in for tea :) Muhammad lives in the middle of nowhere but has a beautiful spot next to the beach. Proudly declaring he has ten kids and much to the families amusement he starts making fun of Westerners only having one or two :)

Finally reaching civilization the locals are great. On finding out I'm Australian everyone falls head over heels trying to help me as most have friends or relatives who live there. I even find some fellow Australians here visiting family. It was a very similar experience in Greece when most people who can speak English speak with an Australian accent, quite bizarre...

The main point of interest in these parts is a Palestinian camp located on a headland to the South which is eagerly pointed out to me with motions of gunfire by everyone I pass. It seems this is the local tourist attraction and they're all very proud of it :) From watching the news over the last year I can remember some stories which I figure probably relate to this place.

On closer inspection I can see many of the buildings are destroyed, setting up my camera I start taking some pictures...

"Stop! Stop!"

I glance up to see a young guy in uniform and an older guy in plain clothes rushing over the road towards me. Oh oh....

"What are you doing? That's forbidden! Forbidden!!!"

They don't look impressed and I can tell this isn't going to be fun. Luckily for me they hardly speak any English so trying to communicate in Arabic and sign language gives me some breathing space...

"I'm a tourist. I'm walking to Tripoli"

"Where are you from?"

"Australia"

"Passport!"

These two have an air about them I don't want to mess with, the passport comes straight out. The older guy flicks through it and after locating my visa is on straight his mobile phoning in the details. The younger guy turns to me...

"Why are you taking pictures?"

Shrugging "I was told by the locals that there was a lot of fighting in this town so I wanted a picture"

"When did you arrive?"

"Last night at 8pm"

"Where did you stay?"

"I camped on the beach"

He continues with his questions while the other guy confirms my visa is valid before coming to join us...

"Okay, I need to see the photos"

Starting to flick back through I couldn't have asked for a better selection of shots than the last few days worth. There's a couple of the Palestinian camp, then two kids from down the street, Muhammad and his family, Muhammad's son and his cow, Muhammad's geese, my tent, a couple of the sunset...

The older guy shrugs then says in English...

"I'm a Lebanese Policeman. Come with me"

I wonder if that's the Lebanese equivalent of "You have the right to remain silent..." :)

He leads me across the road to a military facility...

"Wait here. I'll be back"

Taking my passport he leaves me in the company of a couple of young guys who think it's extremely amusing to now have this strange looking backpacker to look after.

"Coffee?"

I have to laugh...it appears the Lebanese hospitality extends to prisoners as well :)

"You are walking to Tripoli?"

"Yes"

"And after that?"

"I will walk to Beirut, then Damascus, Amman, then finish in Jerusalem"

I figure if getting arrested is going to be a regular occurrence then I might as well give them the full story straight up to avoid confusion. The good thing is, the fact I'm walking to Jerusalem doesn't faze them a bit.

Glancing around my surroundings I actually feel less safe sitting here encased by sand bags, barbed wire and armed guards than I do out in the street. If I get shot or blown up out there it's going to be because I was in the wrong place at the wrong time. If I get shot or blown up sitting in a Lebanese army base it will be because I am sitting in a Lebanese army base :)

Half an hour later I'm starting to wonder if I will be here all day when the old guy returns with a big smile, always a good sign...

"Okay, there is no problem. Finish your coffee then you can go"

The small talk continues but now I have permission to leave I'm not so keen to chat. The coffee can't go down fast enough and before I know it I'm back on the street heading to Tripoli.

Stopping at a restaurant a father and son ask me to join them and insist on shouting me lunch. They are from a nearby village, with the son now living in Beirut working as a lawyer. The old guy is funny, he can hardly speak any English but is very keen to find out through is son what the Syrians were like...and very disappointed when I only have good things to say about them :)

Whenever the coast is clear he'll glance around, lean over and whisper...

"Arabs, all bad. Israel good"

Then sit back and wonder off in his own thoughts like nothing was said. I just smile and nod as does his son :)

Heading off once again I notice an interesting piece of graffiti, someone has drawn a big star of David in the cement on the footpath. Israel obviously has a lot more support here than I realized...

Then just to prove to me what a complicated country Lebanon is I don't make it another 500m before someone else wants to stop for a chat...

"Aaaah, you are walking to Palestine. Be careful it's very dangerous"

"Yes, I know"

"But tell me, why is America and England friends with Israel?" Making motions with his hands "Baby, baby, baby...Israel" He then proceeds to motions like he's gunning them all down"

Shrugging "Politics is politics, I don't know"

"What do you think? Do you like Israel?" He makes the same baby killing actions

This is a scenario often put forth by anti-Israeli vocalists and there's not much I can say to it. Does Israel regularly kill children...yes, as does any modern army at war. Unfortunately, it comes part and parcel with modern warfare. I say we should bring back the days where we all line up on a field and bludgeon each other to death with clubs and swords...much more civilized ;)

Normally in this situation I will point out the Arabs too are responsible for the deaths of children and it doesn't automatically make either side "evil", but this guy doesn't speak any English so it will probably be hard to get my point across...

"I don't like Israeli politics but I don't have a problem with Israeli people"

He answers with a flood of Arabic I can't understand and doesn't look convinced, but then he just smiles, wishes me luck and leaves me to it.

I'm sure many people when they think of Lebanon think it will look like a war zone and I'm pleased to say that from what I've seen during today's walk they would be completely right. Funnily enough it actually comes as a surprise to me. I have visited Lebanon before, but only to Beirut and a ski resort, and found it to be quite normal. Today is a different story...

Approaching Tripoli uniformed soldiers start to appear on every corner, holed up behind sandbags or sitting in APCs with .50 calibre machine guns. Road blocks are common and I pass bombed out buildings and burnt out cars at regular intervals. Many a shop window has bullet holes riddled through it and I have to admit, one big question keeps popping into my mind...

What the fuck am I doing here?!?

Considering I had the option of a totally safe, yet slightly hotter route through the middle of Syria I'm starting to think I made a wrong choice. This place is WILD! The main thing that gives me confidence though is that the people are all still super friendly. I just need to find a hotel, relax and decide if this is where I want to continue...

Even without the bullet holes in the windows or the military on every corner this part of town has a rough feel. Looking around I can see many bearded men with walkie-talkies and from thirty years watching Hollywood movies and CNN automatically brand them as Islamic extremists :) I can just imagine it would only take minutes after any incident to have the streets flooded with armed militia...

A group of kids suddenly bolt down a side street and my heart jumps into my throat. I didn't realize I was so much on edge. If it's going to be like this the whole way to Beirut I'm going to be a nervous wreck :)

I find out the area I'm most likely to locate a hotel is Al Tell. Two rough looking kids, probably seventeen or eighteen, come over for a chat and I make the mistake of asking them for directions...

"Come, come. We will take you"

I don't like the look of them right from the start and with my nerves on edge would prefer to be left by myself. But I don't get that option. The one that can speak some English is a bit simple looking and blinks way to much while the other looks friendly but with a cheeky side I don't trust. Straight away they start asking how much money I have and how much my camera is worth. I let them know I have very little money and the camera is virtually worthless. I can hear the simple guy talking to himself on the other side of the cheeky one as we walk along. Sticking my head around to hear what he is saying I can see he's in his own little world and doesn't even notice me watching...

"Give me your money. Give me your money..." He keeps repeating over and over in varying tones...

Not a good sign :)

I look at the other guy, he just shrugs and smiles, obviously not understanding what his mate is saying and makes motions like he is a bit crazy. I have been in situations like this many times round the world and am not bothered too much. If they had the balls to stick a gun to my head in the middle of the street and take me for all I'm worth they would have done it by now. From here on if they are going to rob me I will have to give them an opportunity. I ensure I'm always aware of where they are in relation to my valuables and continue on like everything is normal. I know that if I force their hand the are likely to act, so I don't stop to put away my cameras or tell them to piss off. If I can get to a safe place before they realize then I'll be fine.

I am also lucky I know roughly what direction I should be going so when they try to take me off course I let them know I'd prefer sticking to the main road. The street starts filling with people and they point down the road we are walking...

"Five hundred meters down there. Straight."

And then they leave me to it. I breath a sigh of relief and continue on. Two hundred meters down the road I steal a little glance behind me and sure enough they are following, 50m away. Slowing down I ask for directions and delay till the simple guy is walking next to me again...

"Where is your friend?"

"Don't know"

I look behind and there he is. Giving him a wave, thirty seconds later he rejoins us. Much better to have these two where I can see them. And now that they are here it's time to find an internet cafe and wait till they get bored...

"Ben, down here"

"No, I'm going to find an internet first" I stop to ask a shopkeeper and am very pleased there is a cafe 50m away...

The guys don't look so happy but smiling and wishing me luck they disappear. Let's just hope they are gone for good this time ;)

Now that I'm on the net I get the names for a couple of hotels in the area. The workers point me in the right direction and before long I locate Hotel Koura. The rooms are great, clean with a big private bathroom, but the $40 price tag is a bit more than I'm budgeting for.

"These rooms are very nice but I only want to spend $20 a night. If you can do it for $20 I will stay, otherwise I will look around a bit more"

Laughing "Twenty dollars, no way! Thirty finish"

"Okay, that's a good price. If I can't find anything else I will be back in fifteen minutes"

"No! Twenty five"

I feel a bit guilty bargaining over the last $5 but I know at this stage that I will get it for $20. And I do :) Wonderful!!!

Taking some time out to relax, I decide to go get a feel for this side of the city. As I wonder the streets I realize I'm a world away from the city I was in two kilometers to the North. The military presence is almost non-exsistent, certainly no more prevalent than in many major cities around the world and definitely no sandbags or APCs. The people are relaxed and look completely at ease. No bullet holes and no bearded men with walkie talkies...

Time to go get a beer ;)

The only strip of bars in Tripoli is located down near the waterfront. I walk down, locate the street and find a great little bar called Hollywood. Solo, the owner and bar tender is an awesome guy. The bar is quiet and he's happy to sit and chat...

"I'm amazed the people in this city are so relaxed..."

"Yes, we are all used to the fighting. Sometimes we can hear them fighting a street or two over and nobody cares. We just sit here and continue to drink"

Around midnight, after a few beers I head home. The hotel door is locked, I press the buzzer and wait. The old guy makes an appearance not looking so happy and pointing to his watch...luckily I didn't go out for a big night ;)

Pilgrimage fromTartus to Lebanese Border 05/08/08

2008-08-10T07:04:00.000-07:00

Giving myself a sleep-in I head down to last nights restaurant for a wonderful mushroom omelet and fresh fruit cocktail. Perfect way to start the day but by the time I get moving it's after 10am.

The walk along the harbor is great, sticking to the coast the sea breeze is wonderful and even though I didn't start till late the temperature is fine...

"Hey, hey..."

A guy from a construction site calls me over for a morning tea. Thirty years ago he lived and studied in Russia but because he has forgotten most of it his Russian is as good as mine...pretty poor. He can speak English as good as I can speak Arabic, which is basically nothing, so the conversation is a very interesting mix :) But somehow we manage to get by and have a good half an hour chat...

"Are you religious?"

"No..."

"I'm Christian...a Christian communist" :)

I think he's joking but I'm to find he is serious. He goes on to tell me there are actually two active communist parties in Syria but unfortunately I can't understand any more details... :(

After 5kms my road comes to an end and I have to head inland to the main road. Not 100m from the shore the temperature jumps five degrees and now it isn't so pleasant...

I have seen some tourist brochures on Tartus with pictures of ruins and it seems the Gods are smiling on me today, my new road takes me straight to them :) Without knowing what they are I wouldn't walk far out of my way for them but the extra 50m is worth it :)

I hit the main road and it's a 20km stretch straight to Lebanon. My stomach is finally feeling better and my energy levels are high. Feeling extremely fit I'm sure I will be able to make the border before dark.

Stopping every five or six kilometers for tea the sun starts to get low and I can make out the border in the distance. I'm not very keen on wondering into Lebanon after dark without getting my bearings first, but the stretch of coast I've been walking along is perfect for camping and I can't see it instantly changing across the border.

I still have my camera in hand and want to tuck it away before hitting the border but a military base is next to me and I don't want to look like I'm hiding it. A guy in uniform is walking down the street opposite and crosses the road to cut me off...

"What's that?" He points to my camera...

"A video camera"

"What are you doing?"

"I'm walking to Lebanon"

"That's forbidden!"

"Give me your passport"

I give the guy a quick look up and down and don't like what I see. He might be in uniform but it doesn't look like he's showered in a week and his eye's are glazed. There's no way this guy is getting ahold of my passport. If he wants to look bad enough he can walk with me the 500m to the border...

"No, I'm going to Lebanon"

"Give me your passport! I need to see your passport"

Pointing at the border "Lebanon, Lebanon..."

His voice raises a few decibels and he starts to look extremely pissed "Passport! Give me your passport!"

Time to remove myself from this situation :) I point at the border, give him my best smile, wave and walk off. I'm followed by a stream of yelling which I don't understand anything of. Normally in this situation I will never look back as this gives them another chance to communicate. Without looking back, short of crash tackling me there's nothing he can do. But for some reason I break my own rule and steal a glance behind me. His arms are waving and he's gone red...

I smile again and give him another wave... :)

He can't help himself. Putting his hands to his head he breaks into a big smile, waves and walks off :)

Finding a quiet corner I hide the cameras and head for the border. Leaving Syria always seems to cost money, basically a bribe but always disguised as something else, and now it appears they have made it official.

I get presented with a "Permission to leave Syria" card issued by no other than the "Syrian Arab Republic Ministry of Finance"!!! Not the Immigration office or customs, but the Ministry of Finance! Classic!!!

"Six hundred Lira please"

The form clearly has "500SYP" written on it so I pass him 500...

"No, 600 Lira"

I point to the form...

"Yes, five hundred for the form, one hundred for me"

The problem with Immigration officers is they know, and you know, that they can't be argued with. If he wants 600SYP, he's going to get 600SYP :)

Making my way to the Lebanese office I spot an Australian Passport on the counter. Glancing around a guy comes up to me with a big smile...

"Gday mate, you Australian as well?"

"Sure am"

Pointing at the man next to him "This guy tells me your walking! He saw you on the road today"

Well...my covers blown :) One thing I don't want to look when passing through Immigration is nervous or uncomfortable so now he's talking to me he's getting the whole story, don't want to look like I'm hiding something...

"Where you walking to?"

"Jerusalem"

"Cool"

"And you are going to walk from here to Tripoli?"

"Yep"

"These guys are telling me it's a bit dangerous. They reckon there's heaps of dogs and hyenas and everything..."

I smile taking this as a good sign. Dogs and hyenas I can deal with, it's the wandering bands of heavily armed angry youths which I'm hoping to avoid. If that's all they have to warn me about I feel a whole heap safer :)

The immigration officer gets my attention...

"So, where will you stay in Lebanon?"

"Tripoli then Beirut"

"What hotel in Tripoli?"

"Any hotel"

"No, I need a name for a hotel"

I don't know how many borders I've passed through and how many times I've been stumped by this question but I never seem to learn my lesson and do some research before arriving. I turn to the Australian...

"Do you know the name of any hotels in Tripoli?"

He shrugs...

I quickly start running through all the words I know in Arabic searching for a suitable hotel name...

"Palace Hotel"

"The what? No, what hotel are you staying in Tripoli?"

"Yes, the Palace Hotel"

He gives me a look of disgust, waves me away and writes "Quality Inn" :)

I made it! I'm in Lebanon!!!

There was a small town on the Syrian side of the border which looked like it continued over to this side, but no such luck. No shops, no houses, no nothing. I'm just faced with a long empty road. The good news is though that the beach is still looking perfect for camping. It's fully dark so walking about 700m away from the border I find a nice little spot tucked away in some sand dunes and call it a day...

Pilgrimage from Arrawda to Tartus 04/08/08

2008-08-09T07:04:00.000-07:00

Feeling good when I wake I take my time getting ready and head down to the restaurant for breakfast. It seems like every time I eat my body needs to shut down to cope, as soon as I'm back in my room I'm flat on my back in bed :( Luckily it only lasts a short while and it isn't long before I'm back on the road.

Winding my way around the coast there is always an offer for tea or coffee waiting to be accepted. I walk, rest, walk, rest until I hit the highway and decide to walk the last 15kms along it. Without the distraction of all the people and with the road going directly there I'm sure I can make Tartus by a decent hour.

One thing I have noticed about Syrians is they only have a very vague concept of time and space. While living in Damascus I would regularly want to meet with a Syrian friend for a drink. I turn up at the appointed time, say 3pm, and knowing they were going to be late order straight away. Thirty minutes later they are nowhere to be seen so I call...

"Hi, are you far away?"

"Aaaaah, Ben! No, no, give me ten minutes I'm on my way..."

I order another drink and after thirty minutes call back...

"Aaaaah, Ben! Wait, wait! I will call you back in five minutes..."

I order another drink and after thirty minutes call back...

"Aaaaah, Ben! Sorry, something has come up. Can we meet tomorrow?"

"Okay, sure"

"Great, same time?"

Now it's this last part that makes me realize we are living in two completely different realities. What exactly do they mean by "same time"??? I take it to mean somewhere between 15:00-16:30 and maybe not at all, that way there is never any confusion ;)

The reason behind this story is because the distance signs to Tartus follow a similar tale. I pass a sign saying "Tartus 10kms" and two kilometers later get another sign saying "Tartus 10kms". I walk six kilometers then get a "Tartus 1km", five hundred meters later a "Tartus 2km" then two hundred meters past that a "Tartus 4km"!

Now, if these signs were advertisements or home-made I could understand but they are all official, normal looking road signs. Surely the guy who stuck the "Tartus 2km" sign in would look up, see the "Tartus 4km" sign and think...

"Hmmmmm, maybe this is slightly out of place..."

The four kilometer sign must have been right and I stagger into Tartus feeling exhausted. I managed the last 10kms without a break and now I'm feeling it. Deciding to eat at the first restaurant I come to it turns out I'm getting a greasy hamburger for lunch. Not the best thing for my dodgy stomach but I figure maybe introducing some more nasty critters down there isn't such a bad idea. You never know, maybe they will wipe themselves out fighting for supremacy of my stomach... :)

Finding a nice little hotel I grab my camera and go to check out the old city. Luckily it's only 200m down the road because there is absolutely nothing to see! Still craving spaghetti I go from restaurant to restaurant and finally locate some goodness. Just what I need!

The atmosphere is great! Sitting on the street facing the Mediterranean sipping cocktails, it's the perfect place to relax and catch up on some writing...

Pilgrimage from Hreisoon to Arrawda 03/08/08

2008-08-09T06:48:00.000-07:00

The restaurant workers are up and about early so I don't get much of a sleep in. The sea is looking too tempting and I can't resist a morning dip to start the day. Abdula makes an appearance looking slightly bleary eyed and his friend is looking even worse, I find out he still hasn't slept :)

We sit, drink coffee and after saying a big "thank you" I go to leave. Abdula must notice I have the same shorts on that I wore swimming and running inside comes back out with a new pair...

"Here, take these" :)

I set off around the coast and it isn't long before my guts start tying itself in knots again :( Twenty-four hour bugs are fine, any longer than that I can do without...

The walk is nice and peaceful, finding a long line of restaurants I pick one to lounge on the beach, listening to the lapping waves and drinking tea. The bill comes and I get a huge shock when the guy wants 150SYP. All the restaurants so far have been charging 25-50, because the bill is so ridiculous I give the guy 25 and walk off...

"Hey Australia, Australia. Come back, come back"

Bugger him I say :)

Making the outskirts of Banyas, I find a bench and set myself up with a fabulous fish picnic. It goes down a treat but as soon as I stand up I get knocked back down, before I realize it I've slept for two hours!

Setting off again I don't get far before some old guys call me over for a drink...

"Where are you walking to?"

"Jerusalem"

"Aaaaaah, Philistine. So...are you with the Arabs or the Israelis?"

I laugh and shrug...

The guy launches into a tirade of Arabic, none of which I understand, then much to everyone's amusement his friend starts hitting him telling him to shut up :)

The sermon finishes and he goes back to speaking English with a big smile...

"Come back to my house for lunch"

I really have no desire to eat anything but telling him I'm full doesn't convince him. I'll let the Gods decide...

"If we can walk I will come..."

"Walk! No way! It's too far"

They take their leave and I'm left thinking about how funny many of the foreigners living here are. Many a time while in a social gathering in Damascus I would be asked about my walk and would reply that I'm going to Jerusalem. There were always some in the group who would gasp wide eyed and look incredibly uncomfortable, before finding a suitable time to pull me aside and explain that I "shouldn't really tell people that".

But not once have I been told it's inappropriate from a Syrian or Palestinian, they all think it's great! The only negative response I might get is disappointment that they aren't able to come. It amazes me that the foreigners here are most likely some of the more open minded people on the planet, to be here in the first place, but still can't see past their own preconceived illusions...

Banyas is a funny town, very busy and very disorganized. Trying to locate an internet cafe is near impossible but luckily a young sailor who speaks Russian and a bit of English adopts me and acts as my tour guide. Cheers mate...

After a couple of hours on the net I have a craving for spaghetti, I think my bodies telling me I need some energy as my diet has been crap lately. I hardly feel like eating anything these days...

The chance of spaghetti is pretty much nil so I settle for a falafel role. It's so good I have to have another and the owner is so happy to sit and chat he doesn't even let me pay :)

Setting off I once again start to feel ill and feel the need to crash out. The first clearing I come across looks perfect. Dumping my bag I go to set myself up when suddenly two guys appear out of nowhere...

"What are you doing?"

"I'm about to have a rest, I'm walking to Tartus"

"You can't rest here" Pointing around "All military"

Sighing "Ok, no problems. I pack my stuff up and go to leave...

"Where are you going?"

Pointing down the road...

"No, come with us. You must drink tea" :)

Go figure. I can't sit on the grass across from the military compound but I'm more than welcome to sit in it!

The guys are all good value and I have to laugh at how racism filters through into all cultures. The mother of one of the young guys is Turkish and even though he was born in Syria, can't speak a word of Turkish and has never been to Turkey everyone calls him "Turk" :)

"Hey Turk, do this..." "Hey Turk, what do you think about that?"

Still feeling ill when I leave, and in need of a sleep the walking is difficult, but as the sun starts to set my body begins to feeling better. Maybe I will walk through the night...

Stopping for a snack I'm surprised when the owner of the shop starts speaking perfect English and lets me know her sister lives in Australia. Taking a seat I'm happy to stop for a chat...

"So, are you staying at the hotel next door?"

Hotel??? "There's a hotel next door?"

"Yes"

Perfect :) I'm happy to have a room to myself for the night and a sleep-in. Hopefully it will make me feel a bit better...

Pilgrimage from Snobar to Hreisoon 02/08/08

2008-08-08T08:19:00.001-07:00

Feeling the sun rise I role over and try to catch a little more sleep. Next time I wake my stomach is doing backflips, I should make a move. My energy levels are fine and I don't feel sick but my tummy is not in a good way... :(

I start walking and don't have to travel far before my first invite for coffee :) As I go to leave one of the customers runs inside and comes back with some biscuits and a juice...

"Energy, energy..." :)

Next stop is a 7-up, which of course the owner doesn't let me pay for, then 500m down the road another tea seller starts yelling at me from the other side of the highway. Trying to convince him I want to keep walking is impossible and he is so enthusiastic I can't refuse. These guys are great value and once again I get loaded up with biscuits before leaving.

The plan is to complete the 15kms to Jableh before lunch, then attempt the next 18kms to Banyas in the afternoon. Four kilometers before Jableh a young guy rides past on his bike, does a u-turn and comes to chat...

"Come back to my house for tea"

"How far away is your house?"

He points at a house 100m away...

The house ends up being a shop run by his brother and he insists I drink a fizzy drink instead of tea. Suits me fine... :)

I go to leave just as his friend, Yassir, turns up who can speak English...

"You must come back to my house for lunch"

"Thanks, but I'm going to try to make Jableh before I eat"

Even though I haven't eaten anything today I still don't have an appetite, and the thought of trying to force down food under the watchful gaze of a Syrian mother isn't too appealing...

"No, no. You must come"

"How far away is your house?"

He points at a house 100m away... :)

"OK, sure..."

Sitting out in his front yard we get presented with a huge feast. I start tentatively but once I get into it my stomach settles. The neighbors come out to join us and it isn't long before they are trying to marry me off to all the eligible girls in the area. I suppose that's what I get for being thirty and single ;)

Arriving in Jableh around two I feel like an afternoon nap but coming to a great little restaurant overlooking the sea I decide to catch up on some blogs first. Ordering a tea I sit down to write and suddenly feel incredibly nauseous. Five minutes later I realize if I don't go and lie down very soon I'm going to vomit. Quickly packing everything back up I head off in search of some shade...

Luckily for me I don't have to go far, a restaurant is being built next door and is only half finished. A perfect spot to crash out...

I wake to a rock scuttling along the ground and I can hear kids down stairs...

Was that aimed at me?

Another rock comes flying over the balcony, skittles along the ground and comes to rest after hitting my sleeping mat...

Fuck! Little bastards!!!

Getting up I tentatively sneak over to the edge, scared another rock will come hurtling over at any second. Spotting the culprit, he has another rock in hand ready to throw. The funny thing is he isn't looking in my direction...

He lets loose with his missile and I hear it clatter around in the room below, but he still hasn't even glanced up. I have to laugh, after sitting and watching for a minute it appears they don't even know I'm here. It must have been a fluke the other rocks almost hit me...

Going back to sleep it isn't long before I'm discover, I wake to three kids giggling and pointing at the strange looking bum who's made himself at home in their cubby house. They sit around and chat for a few minutes before leaving me to go back to sleep.

Waking with the wailing if the mosque I realize it must be getting late. I'm feeling better and the good news is I have a big appetite. Locating another restaurant down the road I ask if they are serving food...

"Yes yes, take a seat"

"I dump my bag and set myself up to write. The waiter comes over...

"Sorry, we don't have any food. But if you want we can order you a sandwich that will get delivered"

"Sure, no problem"

I order a tea and start writing. Another tea and ninety minutes later I go to ask about my sandwich...

"Maybe in an hour..."

What the....!!! I can't believe he still has a straight face and I have to laugh. Obviously I'm not getting any food here so I pay for my teas and head off in search of nourishment elsewhere...

Town soon ends and I get a wonderful walk around the coast. No Restaurants but a magical view. The really exciting thing though is the missile sites right next to me. Just like the movies...real, big missiles sitting there waiting to be fired! I'm impressed :) I'm also itching to sneak a photo but I'm sure that at some stage while walking through Syria someone official is going to want to look at my photos and the last thing I want to have on my computer is pictures of Syrian missile sites...

As darkness starts to set in I search around for my torch, shit! I've either lost it or have packed it in my tent. Just then a car pulls up next to me and a guy pokes his head out from the window...

"If you have a couple of minutes please come back to my house for tea. Just five minutes then you can keep walking"

Mustaffa is extremely polite and well spoken, I can't refuse :) He use to work as a translator for the last president and five minutes quickly turns in to an hour as we sit chatting on his rooftop, eating grapes and drinking warm milk straight from the cow next door. It's well dark by the time I go to leave and even though Mustaffa offers to let me stay the night I want to keep moving. While I'm sick I figure it's best to walk when I can, who knows how i will feel tomorrow...

Many people call from their balconies as I wander past but i have to refuse their offers as politely as I can. Five kilometers later I hit a restaurant, yes! Finally some dinner :)

I order fish and set myself up to write. The owner, Abdula, and a couple of his friends sit at the table next to me drinking and it isn't long before I have a glass of Akrak in hand. Maybe that will help kill all the little beasties in my stomach ;)

"Where will you stay tonight?"

"I don't know. Maybe three or four kilometers down the road"

"If you want to sleep in the restaurant you are more than welcome"

"That sounds great, cheers" :)

My food starts to arrive and I watch in horror as plate after plate fills the table. Absolutely awesome but even if I was feeling well there is no way in the world I would finish it all. A huge salad, hommus, babaganous, yoghurt, pickles, chips, bread and 1kg of fish! A big meal for two and a nice meal for three, I don't know what they are thinking but I'm sure the price will be for three as well...

Rather than put myself off my meal further I decide to eat as much as I can then argue about the price later. The fish is superb and I'm amazed how much I manage to consume but it still hardly looks like I made a dent!

Sure enough when the bill arrives it's huge. Abdula is back at the cash register so I head over to find out what the story is about serving one person a kilogram of fish...

"Did you order a kilogram of fish?"

"Of course not. Why would I order a kilogram of fish for myself? Do you ever have a customer come in and order a kilogram of fish per person?"

He turns to the waiter...

"Did he order a kilogram of fish?"

"He asked the price of the fish, I told him it's 1100SYP per kilogram and he said "OK, I'll have the fish""

I have to laugh as Abdula shoots him a look like he's a complete idiot, I am glad he gave an accurate description of the conversation though. Abdula, still not wanting to to completely write off 700g of fish, makes me an offer and tells me to take have the rest of the fish for lunch. Normally I would stand my ground and only pay for what I ate but because I like the guy and because they are letting me stay here the night I make an offer which he thinks is reasonable. And anyway, I hardly have any chance to spend any money in Syria...

We shake hands and go back to the table to drink. They are all set to drink the night away but one glass is enough for me and finding a cosy little spot in the corner I soon crash out...

Pilgrimage from Latakya to Snobar 01/08/08

2008-08-07T05:14:00.000-07:00

Sleeping on the roof is wonderful, apart from being woken by flies in my nose and ears first thing in the morning :) I still manage to sleep in till 8am though...

Tomas is probably wondering why I didn't turn up last night so I head straight to the internet to see if he's given any more directions, but no such luck. Nothing to do other than sit and wait...

Finally around 10am he calls and we arrange to meet at my hotel in a couple of hours. Going for breakfast at my new favorite restaurant I then head back to the hotel...

"Hey Tomas! Great to meet you and glad you made it. Sounds like it was a bit of a mission to get here!"

"Hi, yes, a long trip"

"Do you feel like walking this afternoon?" :)

Laughing "No way, let's stay here another night"

"No problems" Even though I'm pretty keen to get moving as this will be my third day off in a row I figure he deserves a break ;)

Tomas books himself into a room and we head up there to work out our plans...

"So you want to start walking tomorrow?"

"Yes, I need to get moving again, let's stop for a couple of days in Tripoli or Beirut"

"You want to walk down to Beirut from here?"

"Yes, that's the plan"

"I thought you said you were happy to bus around? In my schedule I can probably only walk four or five days..."

Ooooops...looks like we have a bit of a miss communication :) Tomas sent an email before leaving Slovakia asking if it was okay if he walked some then bused and hitched the rest because he only has a month and wants to fit more in. I let him know it wasn't a problem but I didn't realize he was expecting me to accompany him on the busing and hitching sections! He isn't interested in traveling by himself and thought I was going to be a travel partner through the Middle East...

"Shit, sorry mate. I would love to bus around with you but I'm committed to finish this thing first"

"Hmmmmm, so what should we do?" He doesn't look so happy and I can imagine why, he's come a long way :)

"I think we just need to keep in touch. Work out a plan of where you want to go and if we are in the same area at the same time come walking for a few days. There are heaps of backpackers traveling around Syria so I'm sure you will be able to find someone easy enough to hang out with"

"Hmmmm, maybe"

"But first do you want to go to Salahadeen castle today?" If Tomas wants to be a tourist and I'm going to be staying around anyway I might as well do some sight seeing...

"OK, sure. But let's get something to eat first"

Tomas has never eaten Syrian food before so I take him back to the same restaurant I ate breakfast. He's well impressed with the selection. Hommus, babaganoush, cheese, olives, jam, weird sesame dip, pickles, salad, eggs and bread...more food than we can possibly eat and for $2 each! Awesome!

Making our way to the castle I'm glad to have made the effort. Perched up on steep cliffs it makes for an impressive sight, but an hour wondering around is more than enough.

On the way back to town I make the decision to start walking this afternoon. Since Tomas isn't going to walk with me anyway I have nothing to wait for. He doesn't look so happy when I let him know and I can understand why he would be a little anxious. If I didn't know that Syria is an incredibly safe place and that the people are super friendly I would stick around but I know he has nothing to worry about. And also, there is a constant stream of backpackers coming through the hotel so I'm sure he will be fine...inshaallah :)

Heading back to the hotel and packing all my stuff I'm ready to make a move. Saying a big "thank you" to Muhammad and "good luck to Tomas" I get going. My stomach is feeling a bit dodgy again and I don't have an appetite, one of the disadvantages of eating $2 lunches ;) I feel I need some fuel to keep me going so stop for some baklava and cake.

"Can I please get the bill...?"

"Where are you from?"

"Australia"

"Aaaaah, Australia! Welcome! Welcome"

"Thanks" :) "How much is the bill?"

"No, no!" He says while waving me away...

"Welcome to Syria, welcome..."

Champion! :)

My legs feel great after such a long rest and I fantasize about making 30kms. Once again all the tea sellers want me to stop for a chat and it's hard work keeping them at bay :) Syrians are just too friendly!!!

A taxi pulls up next to me and I have to laugh at the sight. If I could draw a picture to challenge the normal preconceptions people have about an Arab country this would be it. A guy and a girl are in the front with the driver and an older woman, a child and another couple are in the back. All the females are wearing headscarves but both the younger ones have their arms draped over their (possible) partners shoulders in a flirtatious way. Both the guys are drinking beer and they all combine in yelling at me out the window... :)

"Here, drink, drink!"

Laughing "No, thank you" :) With my stomach not doing the best I'm happy to avoid beer tonight...

"No, drink, drink!!!"

"OK, OK" I take a can and have a sip...

"More, more!"

I take another small sip and succeed in passing it back...

"Welcome to Syria!"

Around midnight I have made 15kms and finding a paddock decide to stop. As I search around for a good place a family on a nearby balcony spots me and calls out. I head over to explain myself but am blocked by a big drop off. They are still too far away to communicate with so I figure if I'm causing them too much concern they will come and track me down.

As I'm setting up the families 12-14 year old kids make an appearance...

"What are you doing?"

"I'm going to sleep here the night. Is that OK?"

"You will sleep here!?!"

"Yes, is it OK?"

"It's dangerous! There are snakes!"

"No problem, no problem" :)

"You are not scared of the snakes???"

Laughing "No, they are fine. Do you mind if I sleep here?"

"If you are not scared of the snakes it is fine"

They leave me to it and I decide to try my luck without the tent. Thirty minutes of getting bitten by mosquitoes and I concede defeat, out it comes...

Latakya 31/07/08

2008-08-07T05:11:00.000-07:00

I get a good sleep in this morning but the sound of the hotel owner yelling, which seems to be his preferred method of communication, wakes me from my slumber. Packing up all my stuff I grab my computer and head for breakfast.

I love Syria! An omelet, a plate of hommus, bread, pickles, two teas and a herb drink all for $3. Wonderful :)

Catching up on some writing I head to the net. Some friends from Aleppo are meant to be meeting me before 4pm to join me for the next couple of days walk. Two thirty I receive a message and one of them has food poisoning :( I then open a mail from Tomas, a Slovakian guy who is coming to walk with me, and he is in Alana heading this way...

The universe looks like it wants me to stay, so I return to the hotel and check back in. Muhammad offers to let me stay on the roof for free and locking my electronics in another room I take him up on his offer...

Lounging around chatting and writing it's an enjoyable afternoon. And after another quick stint on the net Max, Tanya (a German/Russian girl staying at the hotel) and I go for a beer.

The phone rings with Tomas on the other end...

"Hi, I'm in Latakya! I'm staying at the Harorm hotel. Can you come over and get me?"

"Yeah sure...I'll be right there"

The bar staff have never heard of the hotel so I head outside to try the taxi drivers. Still no luck...shit! :(

Checking my phone, the number he called from was withheld. Going back to the bar I wait for him to call back but after a few beers we all decide to head home. In one last attempt to locate him I go down to an internet cafe to see if he emailed but no luck, let's hope he calls in the morning...

Latakya 30/07/08

2008-08-07T04:57:00.000-07:00

It's seems like I only just got to sleep when the phone rings with Rami's voice on the other end...

"Ben! Ben! Good morning. How are you? We are out the front"

I manage an affirmative grunt, almost fall back asleep then drag myself out to where they are waiting. Rami and Alaa where two of my best friends while living in Damascus and I'm stoked they made the effort to come and visit. After twenty minutes catching up on all the gossip we decide to go back to sleep for a couple of hours, it's still only 06:30...

Managing to sleep till ten Muhammad recommends a beach 25kms to the North and we head up there. The beach is Beautiful, framed by steep cliffs on either side and almost deserted. A perfect choice!

Eating breakfast then playing in the waves for an hour it's a great way to spend the morning. Heading back to Latakya the guys want to go to a famous strip of restaurants by the beach for lunch, but by the time we finish mucking around at the hotel and make our way there it turns into dinner...

Treated to fresh fish barbecued to perfection and a view watching the sun setting over the Mediterranean the restaurant couldn't be better. We have a great time before moving to another little cafe overlooking the sea on the other side of town.

Max joins us and the discussion soon turns to politics and the Arab/Israeli "problem" :)

Rami and Alaa are both Palestinian while Max lives in Beirut doing his PhD on the varying situations of the Palestinians in nearby countries. I have already had numerous discussions with Rami and Alaa on this topic and am happy to sit back and enjoy the banter, occasionally throwing my two cents worth in when I feel it's needed...

I'm impressed Max is happy to speak his mind, as too many foreigners living in this area view talking about Israel as a taboo, especially if you have something critical to say about Hamas or Hezbollah. Many groups when talking between themselves even go as far as calling Israel "Disneyland", in fear that by mentioning Israel by name the wrath of the Syrian people and government will instantly come crashing down around them. Quite bizarre considering this topic is often one of the first things Palestinians and Syrians want to get your view point on when getting to know you, and that from my experience most assume that being Western you will automatically be pro-Israeli. They are happy to have an intelligent debate and the different issues in the hope of giving you a different slant to the situation and even though the discussions can get heated, as there is obviously a lot of emotions involved, they are not going to get violent in any way if you disagree with them.

I would even go as far as saying I don't think you would be any physical danger if your view was "Israel has a right to exist, the Arabs are the ones causing all the problems and they are all terrorists". You would probably get yelled at, called an idiot and kicked out of the country soon enough but I doubt if it was said in a non-aggressive way you would come to any harm :)

Rami and Alaa head to the bus stop going back to Damascus, leaving me and Max waiting for another friend to come and pick us up. A kid turns up selling gum trying to convince us to buy some, then attempts to stick a packet in my pocket when we refuse. I let it fall to the ground and now that it's out of his hands the kid thinks we should pay for it. Ignoring him and walking off we get followed by a tirade of abuse as he follows yelling and screaming. The little fella's only about 12 years old so there's not much we can do but we do get slightly concerned when he picks up a big rock...

"Careful, they're good at rock throwing" Max jokes in obvious relation to the night's discussions.

The rock does come racing in our direction but luckily it was a very half hearted attempt to scare us, rolling along the ground. Our lift appears, rescues us and we go for a beer, then after dropping Max off Sami and I head to the beach for a game of pool. Blue Beach is a fun area at night and I'm glad we made the effort, but after a couple of hours I'm happy to head back to the hotel for bed...

Pilgrimage from Zighrin to Latakya 29/07/08

2008-08-07T02:26:00.000-07:00

I was warned last night that the coffee would start flowing at 4am but I didn't think they were serious! Lucky for me they are happy to work around me and apart from being disturbed by the occasional noisy minibus I get to sleep till 8am.

Heading off in search of breakfast it isn't long before I find a restaurant with the owners cleaning up from the party last night. And by the looks of things it was a hell of a party!

"Are you serving food at the moment?"

"No, but sit down and have a tea"

"Sure"

They all stop working, come for a chat and before I know it the table is loaded up with breakfast :) Awesome!!! I know Syrians have a sweet tooth but I have to cringe when the woman pours the sugar into my cup straight from the packet! It appears sugar is measured by the centimeter here rather than the spoon, sure enough my tea tastes like fairy floss juice :)

Clearing the last ridge the road starts it's decent towards the sea. Down the bottom of the hill I spot my first military checkpoint, this will be interesting. I have been curious as to what type of response I'm going to get from these guys wandering around with my camera...

No "Hello" or "Welcome" here, straight away the older guy stands up and points to my camera...

"What's that?"

"A video camera"

"What are you doing?"

"Walking to Latakya"

"Where are you from? Where is your passport?"

"Australia" I go to drop my bag and retrieve my documents

"Aaaaah, Australia! Welcome, welcome. Ok, have a nice day..." He waves me off and returns to his seat.

That was easy :)

Passing through cute little towns the walk is great and around lunchtime I find a construction site to stop for a rest. My laptop comes out and no sooner than me fingers touch the keyboard a voice sounds in front of me...

"Hello, where are you from?"

"Hi, Australia"

"Aaaah, welcome welcome! Come next door for tea"

"Thank you but I have a few things I need to do..." This is one problem with the locals being so friendly. I don't get a single second by myself to write or relax ;)

"No no, come for tea"

Sighing "Ok sure" :)

Leading me to the construction site next door I sit and chat for thirty minutes before heading back to my sanctuary where I promptly fall asleep...

Waking to a car pulling up out the front I can hear footsteps approaching. Still pretending to be asleep I hope they will leave me in peace. The footsteps stop next to me and the guy whistles to get my attention...

Ok, ok I'm awake...

Opening my eyes I find a big guy standing over me making eating motions and pointing next door. I have to laugh, here I was thinking I was about to get kicked out...

"Thank you very much, but I am fine"

He doesn't look convinced and continues to point next door...

"No, no, thank you" :) What I really feel like is some more sleep...

He smiles, shrugs then leaves me to it. Crashing back out I wake thirty minutes later and decide to make a move. No sooner are my bags packed than the guy reappears still making eating motions and pointing next... :)

"Ok, sure"

Muhammad smiles broadly and takes me over to where he lives with his family. A funny guy and he does a good job of keeping me entertained before lunch arrives. We have a great feed and as I go to leave he tries to convince me to stay the night. But unfortunately this pilgrim wants to be in Latakya tonight. I have some friends arriving from Damascus early tomorrow morning...

The road is flat and boring and turns into a highway as we approach Latakya. I push hard wanting to arrive before dark and around 7pm make the outskirts of the city.

A mother and daughter spot me walking past from their verandah and call me over for a drink. I only wanted to stay for a quick chat but every time I'm about to finish what's in front of me some more goodies arrive :)

"How old are you?"

"Thirty"

"Are you married?"

"No"

"What do you think of my daughter? Is she beautiful?

"Yes, she is very beautiful"

"Do you want to marry her?"

"Sure, what's she doing tomorrow?" :)

The daughter is suitably embarrassed but the mother finds it incredibly amusing. I take my leave and head off towards the center.

Latakya is bigger than I expected and an hour later it's dark and I still haven't located my hotel. Spotting an internet cafe I get their number, give them a call and it isn't long before I'm showered and relaxed in a great little room.

Along with a couple of other guests I buy some beer, head to the roof and we have a nice little gathering before bed...

Pilgrimage from Yayladagi to Zighrin 28/07/08

2008-08-04T11:11:00.000-07:00

My last day in Turkey!!! What an awesome feeling...

I have loved walking through Turkey but the thought of finally getting to the Middle-East fills me with joy. I'm one happy pilgrim today :)

I was hoping to wake early and even though I'm excited it isn't till 8am that I finally drag myself out of bed to check out. The way back to the minibus terminal is very easy but somehow I manage a wrong turn and wonder the streets for an extra thirty minutes :( But it isn't long before I'm back in Yayladagi...

The guy sitting next to me during the taxi ride works at the government offices in town and invites me for a tea. By the time I'm ready to leave it's 10am, the sky is overcast and it's not too hot so I'm not too concerned.

With 4kms till the border I'm in good spirits and loving the walk through the pines. I suddenly realize though that I'm extremely nervous about the Syrian immigration. I am meant to have a visa before entering but I know it shouldn't matter as I have entered before without one. I just don't know what they will think of me walking??? Since starting I have had it in my mind that if I have any problems it is going to be at this crossing, so let's keep our fingers crossed...

A restaurant appears 1km from the border and not knowing what I will find on the other side I stop. Two young guys are busily preparing for the day...

"Good morning. Are you guy serving food yet?"

"Good morning. We have kebabs if you want to wait ten minutes..."

Looking at the newly lit fire in front of him I somehow doubt ten minutes is a very good estimate...

"That's alright. Thanks anyway, have a good day..."

"No problems, but sit and have a tea before you go"

"Sure"

It was a good choice to stay because not only are the guys good value but ten minutes after sitting down the table is loaded with food for breakfast! Champions :)

Then just to top of my Turkish experience they don't let me pay! I love Turkey ;)

Ten minutes later the border comes into site and my heart rate slightly increases. The road has been very quiet and one thing that I know from experience is a bored immigration officer is very rarely a good one, the exception being when their border post is so quiet they spend their whole day watching soaps on TV and the two minutes they have to spend with you is an inconvenience they want to be finished with as soon as possible :)

Handing my passport to the Turkish officer I'm surprised with all his questions. He thinks that because I have been here two months I must have been working and his circle of questions cycles over and over. Luckily for me I came name a path from town to town right from Ipsala to here so it adds believability to my story :) But lets hope this is not a sign of things to come at my next stop! If it takes five minutes of questions just to leave form this border crossing how hard is it going to be to enter...

The good thing with Syrian immigration offices is that they are positioned off the road and the officers can't see that I walked in. I took the liberty of applying for residency while living in Damascus to give myself more options on this crossing and I make my mind up not to mention walking at all unless I have to...

"Good morning, where are you from?"

"Australia"

"Do you have a visa?"

"No, but I've applied for residency in Damascus and they told me I didn't need one"

"Hmmmm, you need a visa but wait here..."

The younger officer hands me a form to fill out and proceeds to look page by page through my passport...

"What's this stamp?"

"England" This is going to take a while if he doesn't even now that one... :)

"What's this stamp?"

"Panama"

I have heard that if the immigration officers on the Jordanian border are bored they will go through your passport stamp by stamp and try to see if there are any gaps in your travel where they will accuse you of going to Israel. I have the feeling this is what he is trying to do but even knowing where I have come and gone from over the last two years i would have trouble plotting a course from stamp to stamp in my passport, so I'm not too concerned.

Knowing that I will have to cross back into Syria again in a couple of weeks I don't want to lie on my form so I write that my reason for being here is tourism and that I will stay two weeks. The question that stumps me though is the one at the very bottom...

Means of entry into Syria and the registration number of the vehicle...

I leave it blank and hand it back. The officer quickly reads it over and points to the bottom...

Shrugging "Don't know"

He shrugs and waves like it doesn't matter...phew :)

The older guy comes back with a big smile...

"OK, no problems. So you live in Damascus do you?"

"Yes" If that's what he's just been told from Damascus don't want to contradict them :)

"Where?"

"In Baramkeh"

"Aaaaah, Baramkeh. What's your address?"

I just shrug. Even when I lived there I had no idea what the address was as it consisted if five lines of writing and a picture. Something about being the apartment block down the road from the gym across from the spotted dog that will bark at you three time when you pass...

"So, what were you doing there?"

"Studying Arabic" This is not something I wanted to admit to if possible as I can't remember a word :) Sure enough the next question comes in Arabic and I break into a sweat...

"Where did you study? At Damascus University?"

I pause. My mind fills with Turkish. Come on Ben...think! Day one lesson one...

"I'm studying Arabic at the Arab European University in Damascus"...

Phew, I manage to get it out followed by "but now..." making motions like everything has disappeared from my head

They just laugh and my visa is approved.

I made it!!! Wooohooooo :)

Not to be outdone by the Turks the first people I come across invite me for tea and every second car that passes has someone yelling...

"Welcome! Welcome! Welcome to Syria!!!"

There are even people who are literally half way out their car windows with enthusiasm :)

This is actually one thing that drives foreigners nuts after being in Syria for a short while. If a Syrian only knows one word in English it will be "welcome" and they happily use it over and over again to any passing "tourist". It is cute for the first few days but after that it does get tiring ;) I can only imagine what it's like for the poor people who have lived here for years...

It's funny, before people come here they wonder if the Syrians will welcome them at all but after a short time most wish the Syrians would be a little less "welcoming" ;)

The walking is great. I'm seeing a side of Syria I didn't even know existed. Green wooded hills, rich fertile valleys and farming everywhere. A long way from the endless dessert which covers most of the country.

A car pulls over on the other side of the road, a guy jumps out and waves me over. Straight way I get a good vibe from this man and as I get closer I'm greeted by the same aura that surrounded the monks at the monastery in Porto Lagos. His eyes are full of compassion and I can see he is a man comfortable with who he is and what he is doing...

"Hi, I'm an artist. My name is Nubour. Where are you from?"

"Australia"

"Welcome, welcome. Are You just walking? Where have you come from?"

"Yes, just walking. I've walked from England" I can see this stumps him slightly :)

Laughing "Are you sure?"

Laughing "Yep, I'm sure" :)

He grasps my hands and when he releases I open them to find 2000 Lira (US$40). I'm speechless. Forty dollars is a lot to give away to a stranger anywhere in the world and after living here for a few months the sum in my hand looks like a small fortune. The funny thing is he must have had it in his hands before finding out where I was from or what I was doing...

Smiling "Good luck..." He turns and walks back to his car...

And that's that. He's gone before I have a chance to respond, thank him or anything. I want to ask for a photo or get him on video but as my eyes follow him back to his car I realize nothing will recapture that moment.

Yep, Syrians! "Axis of evil" written all over them ;)

The road is full of little shops selling tea, coffee and fruit so I have and endless stream of invites. It makes for slow going and I do feel slightly bad I can't accept them all.

Passing a beautiful little lake, darkness falls and I weave my way through the mountains. A rather noisy group calls out from across the street and I can't resist to join them...

"Ben, can you drink Akrak?" In Greece it's called Ouzo, in Turkey Raki and here Akarak, but whatever its name I'm all for it...

"Sure"

Yassir breaks out a huge smile and I realize he is drinking alone. He must be dying for a drinking partner and I'm more than happy to oblige ;) An extremely entertaining guy but has a bit of the "drunk uncle" syndrome, many of the jokes he finds terribly amusing leaves the rest of the table rolling their eyes...

He tries to sell me his daughter along with one of her friends, tempting but I don't think they would both fit in my backpack and it wouldn't really be fair to separate them ;)

He then proceeds to let the baby sip his drink and suck his cigarette, much to the mothers disgust but the baby loves it. The drink gets spilt on the table and straight away the baby dives in sucking it up :) Yassir roars with laughter as the rest of the table gasps...

As I go to leave they offer to let me stay in their shop...

Perfect :)

Antakya 27/07/08

2008-07-31T11:39:00.000-07:00

Sleeping in, I wake feeling in no hurry to do anything. Zeynep will call when she's ready to start her tour, and I'm happy to just wonder the streets, do some writing, get on the net then enjoy a wonderful Kanufe and orange juice breakfast :)

Zeynep's mother arrived from Istanbul this morning and invites me for brunch. Heading over to their house I'm treated to an amazing selection of goodies :) Thanks guys!!!

"So where do you want to go today?"

"The church of St Pierre is the only thing I really want to see, then I'm all yours"

"Do you know it's closed for renovations?"

Shit! "Are you sure?"

"Pretty sure"

"Let's go anyway, if it's closed I will just get some pictures out the front"

She doesn't look convinced but is kind enough to accompany me anyway. A thirty minute bus ride and ten minute walk later we arrive, and "yep", it's closed. What I failed to realize is the church of St Pierre, as well as being the oldest church in the world, is also built into a cliff and from the outside consists of nothing but a door :(

Oh, well...

Zeynep gives me a "told you so look" and we make our way back into town :) Next stop is a huge park built by the French and after being stunned by the size of the monkey's bum in the cage at the entrance we find a cafe to relax. Playing a couple of games of backgammon two of Zeynep's aunts make an appearance, a perfect number for a game of Dominoes. I've never played their version of Dominoes before in my life but being a simplified version of Mah Jong I soon get the hang of it, with a little help from Zeynep's younger cousin ;)

We play for hours and by the time we finish Zeynep has to go meet another cousin for coffee. Arranging to meet again for dinner I head back to the hotel for a rest.

Her choice of restaurant is great, and I have to laugh when she finds out she is related to the waiter but has never met him before....

"Yes, I have sixteen aunts and uncles living in Antakya. My family is huge!"

To top off a wonderful day we head back to last night's cafe, lie on our beanbags and kick back with another nagile. Life's perfect...

Pilgrimage from Gozeme to Yayladagi 26/07/08

2008-07-31T11:31:00.000-07:00

Breakfast is waiting when I wake, a huge feast :) Agede is still sleeping but his mum insists I start. By the time everyone is awake it's 09:30 and Agede's father gives me a lift down to the taxi stop on his bike.

Just missing a shared taxi to Gozeme I have an hour to fill in to the next one. Stopping at a barbers for a shave they offer me the "string treatment" before they finish...

It's quite common for a barber to hold up a piece of string after finishing shaving and ask if I want it. I have never felt the need to take them up on their offer as I don't know what they want to do with it, but today I'm feeling adventurous :) One of the younger workers comes over and holds the skin on my cheeks tight while the string gets stuck in the barbers mouth for a good sucking. Looking back that's the point I should have bailed...

Removing the string the guy pulls it tight and proceeds to drag it back and forth across my skin, with the result of tangling in all the fine hairs on my cheeks and yanking them out by the roots. Sound painful? You'd be right! Any benefit my looks might have gained from my rosy red cheeks and super smooth skin is heavily outweighed by my puffy eyes filled with tears.

Well, lesson learnt. Don't have to ever do that again on my life. Now I'm sure all the girls out there are thinking that I'm just being a wuss and that it's only what they go through every day, but being a guy beauty treatments can only go so far. If it hurts, tastes bad or makes me look gay it isn't needed :) There are enough people on the planet who think I'm gay without encouraging them ;)

The journey up the mountain is much more enjoyable by car and it isn't long before I'm dropped at my starting point. Very pleased with myself that I got to the top of the mountain yesterday the walk ahead is pleasant with small rolling hills.

Antakya is such a fertile area with as many varieties of crops as you can name. The smell of drying tobacco fills the air with the locals sitting in their verandahs stringing it out to dry. I don't make it far before getting an invite for lunch and am happy to sit round and chat.

The walk is great and not so hot today. I was planning on heading to Antakya for a few hours to see the church avoid the heat but now I think I will walk the full 20kms to Yayladagi and give myself the night in Antakya.

The fields turn to pine and with the sound of the cicadas cheering me on I make my turnoff around five. I only have 4kms of Turkey to go! Trying to hitch into the center of Yayladagi I end up walking the one and a half kilometers but am happy when a minibus is there waiting for me.

Arriving in Antakya I find a great little hotel and head into town to check out the sights. The Gods must be smiling on me, I'm lucky enough to meet up with a gorgeous young woman by the name of Zaynep whom having just graduated from studying English literature in Istanbul is now back in her home town for a holiday. Her friends are all away and being extremely bored she offers to show me around town tomorrow :)

But first I convince her to come out for a drink :) Leading the way to a fabulous open air cafe we lay back on our bean bags, order some tea and kick back smoking nagile. A perfect way to spend the evening, thanks heaps :)

Pilgrimage from Karagol to Gozeme 25/07/08

2008-07-31T03:22:00.000-07:00

Waking with the sun I give myself five minutes to sit and enjoy my surroundings. Magical! :)

Last night by moonlight I thought I could make out a big mountain in the distance. Thinking there was nothing but sea in that direction I thought it was just an illusion but this morning it's definitely a mountain. Then I realize I'm getting my first glimpse of Syria!!! What a feeling, Middle East here I come!

Making a move the 15km walk to Cevlik is wonderful. The only other souls on the road are the occasional fishermen and I'm loving the solitude...

By the time Cevlik comes into sight I'm starving. Praying there is a restaurant in town I work my way down the hill and am amazed at what I find. Cevlik consists of nothing but restaurants and pansiyons! Iskenderun and Arsus probably have a combined population over 100 000 yet Cevlik with a population of 200 appears to have more hotels than both combined! And yet no other facilities, not even an internet cafe! Very strange place :)

With only 9YTL to my name until I find a money exchange I start searching round for a cheap breakfast. The local surf lifesavers call me into a restaurant and I ask if they are serving food...

"Yes, what would you like?"

"Kebab, how much is it?"

"Yes, we have but you have to wait an hour. How about toast?"

"Ok, toast. But how much is it?"

"3YTL"

Hmmmmm, a little expensive for toast but better than the other restaurants. "OK"

A guy calls out from the kitchen...

"Sorry, we don't have toast, how about bread and cheese?"

I was really craving something other than bread and cheese and also, there is not much point paying a restaurant for something I can go next door and buy myself. I decide to ask how much it will be anyway...

"3YTL"

"OK, sure" The thought of having a couple of cups of tea with breakfast changes my mind. The guys are entertaining and we have a good chat. When I go to pay they must have concluded that I am incredibly poor considering I am walking, camping and asking the price of everything...so they don't let me pay :)

The lifesavers head off to start work and with a small swell hitting the beach I can't resist. Plunging into the waves I realize it's been over a year since I was last playing in surf! It's amazing how time disappears, this is one of my favorite things to do on the whole planet and yet I manage to go a year without doing it :(

By the time I get going again it's the middle of the day and stinking hot. Every time I stop for a chat people make motions like I'm crazy, and I would have to agree ;) But it is only 8kms from Cevlik to Samandagi and I want to spend some time on the net.

Dragging myself into town I'm pleased to find a money exchange, then asking for directions at a restaurant one of the young workers leads me down some side streets to an internet cafe.

By the time I get moving again it's 5pm, the plan is to make another 7kms, hitch a ride into Antakya and check out the church of St Pierre. From what everyone has been telling me the last few days "the oldest church in the world!"...

Can't miss this one... ;)

Having a choice between the mountain road and the coast road to Yayladagi the decision is easy...coast road of course! But unfortunately God has other plans for me and doesn't mark the turn off. Before I know it I'm heading straight up! The road is super steep and with rivers of sweat pouring off me almost every car stops to offer me a lift. Once again, being in a position where I can hardly respond is a bit embarrassing...especially when I'm trying to let them know I'll be fine to make it to the top on my own :)

Reaching the summit absolutely exhausted I decide to call it a day, two kilometers short of my thirty but who's counting ;) Straight away a ute stops, I jump in the back lay down and drift off.

The guy was meant to drop me 6kms down the road but must have forgotten about me, by the time I notice I figure it will be easier to go the extra 20kms to his destination and catch a bus from there...

Shit!!! I left my cellphone charging at the internet cafe!

Should I go back today or wait till tomorrow when I have to go back anyway?

It's only 26kms so bugger it, I'll go back. Jumping out I start hitching the other way, slightly discouraged by the lack of traffic. And I can't believe the first two cars have exactly the same response...

"Where are you going?"

"Samandagi"

"Ooooooo. A long way, but there are no cars going to Samandagi from here. I can take you but how much will you give me?"

"How much do you want?"

"50" says the first car. "100" Replies the second!

Laughing "How about one?" I figure it sounds about as reasonable as their offers :)

"Nooo! It's 40kms" says the first car. "Nooo! It's 50kms" Replies the second!

I know it's only 26kms because there is a sign 500m down the road which says so, and for 50YTL I'm happy to hitch...

Then the locals start to turn up and just like when I was hitching back from Cappadocia a few weeks ago they start to shit me to tears...

"No, no cars going to Samandagi from here. You will have to go through Antakya"

Now, the trip through Antakya will be a total of 90kms so that's not an option, and I want to know why they all think there are no cars going to Samandagi along this road, it's only 26kms away!!!

After one ride on a scooter, two kilometers walking, a lift in a car and fifteen kilometers in a truck I'm starting to think the locals were right ;) It's now completely dark and I still have 7kms to go. I'm just praying the internet cafe will be open by the time I get there!

Feeling discouraged about hitching in the dark I finally get some respite when van pulls up going all the way to Samandagi. Thank God for that!

Arriving in the center of town I look around and realize I have no idea where the internet cafe was, one of the drawbacks of being shown the way. Relocating the restaurant where I asked for directions I'm not happy it's closed...

Looks like I'm on my own!

Slowly, slowly I retrace my steps and after fifteen minutes of searching arrive at the internet cafe. The guy working there is pretty happy to see me and straight away gives my the phone. Champion!!!

"What are you doing tonight? Where are you staying?"

"I have no idea. I was meant to go to Antakya but it's now getting late"

"Yes, no buses to Antakya now. Here have a seat..."

"No, thank you. I better get going. I need to work out what I'm doing"

"Yes, please, take a seat. Here take a seat"

"Sorry, it's already late. I have to go, but thank you very much..."

I really have no idea what I want to do. I don't feel like wondering the streets of this town looking for a hotel, I don't mind the idea of camping but I can't be bothered making my way out of town and there aren't really any more options. I'd love to stay and chat but I really do have to make a decision...

"If you want to wait twenty minutes until I shut you are more than welcome to stay at my house"

Now there's a better option!

"That would be awesome, cheers" :)

Agede finishes up and takes me back to his house. His mother and brother are still up when we arrive and seem to think it's great they have another addition to the household for the night. Turkey is such a wonderful place!!!

Agede cooks up a feed and I go for a shower. Bursts of pain shoot across my back as the hot water hits my skin. I did learn this lesson in Italy but it looks like I needed to learn it again...

DON'T GO SWIMMING IN THE OCEAN AND START WALKING WITHOUT HAVING A SHOWER FIRST!!!

Looking in the mirror my back is covered in a rash with little sores where my pack has rubbed too much. Beautiful! ;)

Dinner followed by a few games of backgammon and we are ready for bed...

Pilgrimage from Arsus to Karagol 24/07/08

2008-07-31T03:19:00.000-07:00

Sleeping in I make a slow start and after checking out it's straight down to the beach for a swim. Finding a wonderful little cafe I set my self up for some writing, sit back, relax and enjoy the view over a coffee.

Making a move I only get as far as an internet cafe before wasting another two hours :) By the time I finally leave Arsus it's after four. Finding a great little track off the main road I have a nice walk over the hills. The sea breeze stops me dying of heat exhaustion and an hour later I meet back up with road.

I was told there weren't going top be many restaurants along this way so the first one I spot I stop at for dinner. After a superb meal of fresh fish grilled to perfection I continue on my way.

The heat increases as the afternoon progresses and I'm not happy when my road slopes into a steep incline. All the locals are sitting on the street or their balconies so I receive constant offers for tea and food. The restaurants may be few and far between but really, it's not like I'm ever going to starve to death in Turkey :)

The only problem with all the attention is I'm too exhausted to respond, what is meant to come out as "Thank you so much but I must keep going" instead comes out as a muffled grunt with a grimace in leu of a smile :)

But whenever I need it a cup of tea is always waiting. It means the progress is slow but the people are great and I'm going to be walking half the night anyway so it doesn't really matter.

Darkness falls and the traffic thins out. I'm thoroughly enjoying the walk and slowly drift off into my own little world. My thoughts soon turn to death, which is common when walking on the roads at night, it's a bit hard not to when I get told four or five times a day that I'll get killed walking out here by myself ;) Luckily for me I'm quite comfortable with thoughts of death and am happy to let them run their course...

A cigarette packet appears before me and I go out of my way to step on it. Quite a violent reaction to an inanimate object and I take it as a bad sign. Not five seconds later a gust of wind blows through which chills me to my bones...

Where did that come from???

It must still be about 30˚ and that gust would have been lucky to be 15˚! Strange energy is out and about tonight and it leaves me cautious. Eyeing every passing car warily and spotlighting strange noises in the bush a jumpy pilgrim continues on...

Passing a house someone on the balcony yells out but I can't make out what they say...

"Hello" I call back...

More yelling comes my way but I'm in no mood to stop and see what they want...

"Hello" I yell again and continue down the road...

Suddenly I'm the one lit up in a super powerful torch beam and I have pictures in my mind of some crazed hillbilly standing up there with his shotgun aimed at me. Still in no mood to stop I continue on with the torch beam following me round the side of the mountain. Fantasizing about hitting him with my own torch beam I figure it's probably not the best idea and if it's important they will no doubt come and track me down :)

A small town is appears a kilometer down the hill and after two minutes a car starts up heading in my direction. A big black 4WD zooms past and screeches to a halt after spotting me. Doing a radical three point turn considering the drop off over the side of the mountain it returns to where I'm standing, with me slightly shell shocked...

Tonight is getting too strange! I grip my torch wondering "what now?" as the 4WD pulls up next to me...

A young guy is behind the wheel...

"Jump in, jump in!"

"Thanks, but I'm just walking"

"No, jump in, jump in!"

"I can't sorry, but thanks for the offer"

He doesn't look so happy and drives off back to town. Half the village is waiting for me when I make to the local shop and I realize they must have been able to see my torch light coming down the hill. I recognize a few of them from earlier in the evening when they tried to give me a lift and they think it is incredibly amusing that I've only just arrived when if I went with them I would have been here hours ago.

I'm grateful for the tea and a chance to rest but I have to laugh at their constant attempts to make me stay the night...

"Too dangerous that way! Stay here, you must stay here and walk in the morning!"

Everyone starts making motions like getting shot or having my throat cut, one guy is even acting like his limbs are getting sawn off! Don't now what that's all about ;)

I explain that walking in the evening is much nicer than during the day and that even though there offer is very generous I will keep moving. The sense of unease I was feeling earlier in the evening has worn off, if it hadn't I would happily accept but instead I will keep moving...

They try to scare me with stories of dogs and then in one last ditch effort explain that for the next 20kms there is nothing. No people, no cars, no phone reception...nothing. This actually makes me feel a lot better! I know I'm not likely to be shooting myself or chopping my limbs off so if there is noone else out there I have absolutely nothing to worry about ;)

Around 11pm I get back into it and the walk is wonderful. The road turns to dirt and I only pass two cars and one wild pig the whole way, for the majority it's just me, the rugged coastline and the sound of the waves...

A guy explained earlier in the day that there were heaps of pigs in this area and that I need to camp on the beach to avoid them. Having spotted one already I believe him and search for a suitable beach to call it a day. Around 1am a perfect beach appears and the first thing I spot when lighting it up with my torch is a big pig! So much for them not wondering the beaches :)

The pig scuttles up a nearby mountain and pleased they appear to be more scared of me than I am of them I decide to sleep under the stars. But just in case I keep a big stick and the torch handy... :)

Pilgrimage from Narduzu to Arsus 23/07/08

2008-07-25T05:39:00.001-07:00

Waking up not knowing where the hell I am or how I got here, yesterday's antics slowly start to come back to me. I must have been trashed, here I am lying on the side of the road, two cameras lying on the ground next to me and my arms still in my backpack! :)

It's obviously the middle of the night and there is noone around so I figure if I slept this long without a problem another few hours shouldn't matter. Removing myself from my backpack and hiding the cameras under my jacket I curl up on the ground and go back to sleep...

A passing jogger draws me from my slumber and I can make out it's starting to get light. I should get moving. Sitting up I realize the house next to me is under construction and is empty inside. Perfect! :) Grabbing all my shit I move in and it isn't until 11:30 I finally feel well enough to walk :)

I have a huge hunger and the first restaurant to appear is a posh looking hotel. Finding a seat overlooking the pool and the Mediterranean I ask for a menu...

"Yes, we have a menu...but today we only serve a special meat dish"

Sounds to me like they are saying "If you want to eat you have to have the most expensive thing we serve" ;)

But I'm glad I decided to go with it. Absolutely divine!!!

The walk is hard today but with the sea breeze and beautiful views it's well worth it. Stopping regularly I make slow progress and even though I get offers to sit and drink beer I manage to resist ;) Finally, just on dark I hit Arsus. Two guys stop me for a chat and walk with me into town. Ali offered me a lift a couple of hours ago and has been waiting for me to arrive so he can buy me dinner. Champion!!! Arsus is a great little town, full of life and a wonderful feel...

Ali takes me to a kebab shop and after a great meal I leave to find a hotel. They were going to help me look around but when I told them I wanted a room for 20YTL they just laugh and tell me it isn't possible...

The first couple of hotels are full, I start to get a bit worried but then third time lucky, I find a perfect little pansiyon for 20YTL, now it's time for a beer ;)

Everyone has told me the nightclubs here are well worth a look so I figure I better go find out for myself. Turns out "everyone" is right, the nightclubs are great, but unfortunately for me I'm the only person out and about in them tonight... :(

Pilgrimage from Iskenderun to Narduzu 22/07/08

2008-07-25T05:32:00.000-07:00

Mehmut is meeting me at 10am to take ensure I don't get ripped off by the glasses guys, or more likely to ensure he gets his commission ;) so I get to sleep in. At 09:57 the phone rings and Ahmets waiting down stairs. Punctual! :)

Turns out they can't order me new lenses anyway. Let's see if I can get some kilometers in before lunch...

Mehmut joins me for a great walk along the waterfront and manages 3kms before leaving me to it. I love walking next to the coast! It's wonderful!!!

In the heat of the day I have to stop every kilometer or two for a drink. Seven kilometers from Iskenderun I come across a great little restaurant on the waterfront with some young guys sitting around drinking and decide this is where I'll wait out the heat. After a coffee, a swim and some writing they finally convince me to have a beer...

"Do you have backgammon?"

One of the guys looks up in excitement and the challenge is on. I don't know how it happened but the day just completely disappears. We must have played for hours and by the time we finish the score is 13-11 to him. Standing up I realize I'm completely plastered! :) Checking one of the beer cans, sure enough the beer is 7.5%! Always a good idea to check before starting to drink if you don't know the beer but I never seem to learn ;)

Oh well, hopefully I can walk it off...

I don't make it 50m before two guys at the next bar call me over for a chat. It doesn't take much to convince me to sit down for another beer, one more couldn't hurt...

Famous last words as the world gets very blurry from then on. I get moving after dark and don't even make a kilometer before I realize I need to sit down and sober up a bit. Laying back to look at the starts that's it! I'm out cold right there on the side of the road... :)

Pilgrimage from Dortyol to Iskenderun 21/07/08

2008-07-25T05:19:00.000-07:00

Greeted by the Mediterranean on waking it's the perfect way to start the day. I get moving by 6am and don't even make 3kms before receiving an invite for breakfast. :)

The walking is perfect but it isn't long before my wonderful little beach front road meets the highway and I emerge through a construction site. The security guys call me over for tea and make jokes because there is meant to be security down by the beach stopping trespassers like myself, we conclude he must be swimming :) And I have to admit I like relaxed countries...

We are sitting around drinking tea and a guy rides in on a scooter. Only moving at around 10kms/hr one of the security guards gets up to meet him. Pulling a face then speeding off with a big smile the guy leaves the security guard blowing his whistle, red faced and cursing loudly. All the other security guys think this is incredibly funny and have a laugh when the other guy returns to the table. Noone bothers to go after the scooter though... :)

Then 5kms down the road I see two cops trying to stop a couple of trucks. The trucks are one behind the other and one cop signals to the front one and the second cop signals to the other. The first truck pulls in but the second one just keeps driving with the cop standing in the middle of the road yelling after him. The cop just shrugs at his mate and takes a seat in the police car :)

According to the map I was only meant to have 20kms to Iskanderun so you can imagine my dismay when after walking for a couple of hours a sign appears "Iskanderun - 21". Not happy, it's now 9am and I am where I thought I was at 6am :(

Walking along a highway through industrial area is never much fun but then a company appears that brings a big smile to my face...

"Superkok!!!"

I'd like to go to a trade fair with those business cards :) And while we are on the subject of funny names many Turks find my name incredibly amusing!

"Ben" means "me" or "I" in Turkish so a normal conversation goes...

"What's your name?"

"Ben" ("Me?")

"Yes, you"

"My name is Ben" which they take to mean "My name is, me?"

"Yes you!'

It's quite frustrating and I've tried many different things but nothing makes it easier. I tried to call myself Benjamin but then they just call me Jarmin :)

Then my surname, Dale, when pronounced phonetically is the same as a Turkish song that has some relevance to being crazy. Whenever I ask people who speak English they tell me it doesn't have a meaning but I have enough people crack up laughing and start singing the same tune after seeing my business card that I know it has meaning to a large portion of the population. I think "Ben Dale" translates to them as "I'm crazy" which is even funnier because most of them think I am because I'm walking :)

Entering Iskenderun around 5pm I find a map and go to track down the information center. Before I can enter I'm accosted by two guys offering accommodation. Normally I don't pay much attention to these guys because they obviously get commission which means my bargaining power is greatly reduced, but I like the guy in front of me so I let him lead the way.

The first hotel is way over priced at 45YTL but to save wandering around all day I offer 25YTL, which I'm sure is still more than it was worth. After a bit of banter they accept and I make myself at home. Mehmut, my guide offers to show me around to the bars in the evening...

"No, that's fine mate. Thanks anyway"

"Yes, it's no problem. I will show you around. I know good bars"

"If you want to come for a drink you are more than welcome but I'm not going to pay you to show me around" Now, I don't mind paying for company but the least I expect is to get laid...and unfortunately Mehmut isn't my type ;)

"Of course, I don't want money. No problem, no problem"

"Ok, see you at eight" I always find it hard to trust these guys no matter how friendly or helpful they are. If they make a living showing me around I must be getting ripped of somewhere. But like I said before, this guy is OK so I'll let him stick around...

I have a shower, do some writing and right on 8pm Mehmut makes an appearance. The first stop is a glasses shop to fix my sunnies then it's off for dinner and a beer. All the bars are dead so even though I'm ready for a big night I'm in bed watching a movie by eleven...

Pilgrimage from Osmaniye to Dortyol 20/07/08

2008-07-24T03:45:00.000-07:00

Mildly cold mist wakes me from my slumber as the spray from the guy watering the concrete next to me sprinkles across my face...

I think they are trying to give me a hint ;) Opening one eye the worker greets me with a big smile. I manage a very strangled "good morning" before quickly disappearing back into dreamland.

Some noise next to me wakes me again, this time I make the effort to get up. The sun is quite high and I'm surprised when the clock shows it is still only 06:30. The owners make an appearance and calls me over for breakfast. What hospitality! Let me sleep on their couch and ensure that I leave with full belly. I love Turkey!

I set off to complete the last few kilometers to Osmaniye, walking through industrial area the streets are still reasonably quiet. A small group up ahead draws my attention, the guy siting looks like he has just had an accident or been in a fight. Two guys are standing over him, whack, one of them clips him over the head and starts yelling. Shit! He's waving a pistol at him! They have already noticed me coming up the road so there's nothing to to other than walk past acting like this is normal... :)

"Good morning"

"Good morning" The guy without the pistol points at the guy sitting "Guilty! Guilty!"

I smile and nod. You're not getting an argument out of me mate...

"Have a good day"

"Have a good day..." Their attention goes back to the poor sod sitting and they resume their yelling...

The other people on the street are paying very little attention as well. Some are curiously watching from a distance but most are just continuing what they are doing. I have to admit this is a pretty wild corner of the world ;)

Passing straight though Osmaniye it isn't long before I reach my turnoff to Erzin. The walk is nice over some small foothills but once again the Turkish haze that sits over everything dulls the surrounding view. Then I get a very pleasant surprise, ripe grapes!!! Yippee :) I knew they couldn't be too far away!

Unfortunately most of the vines still are a bit sour so spotting a store up ahead I go to see if they have any for sale. Now that I've had a taste I've got a craving ;) Instead of grapes there are huge piles of tomatoes everywhere, turns out they make home made tomato paste...

But the universe wasn't about to let me go without. Two kilometers down the road a woman sitting with her three kids spots me, runs inside and returns bearing two big bunches! Amazing how things like that work! The three young girls are extremely entertaining. The older one is super confident and has some great faces to pull at me when I don't understand her Turkish, a fun way to pass twenty minutes :)

Continuing onwards a young guy waiting for a ride to Erzin calls me over for a chat. Barak is a character as well. Deciding to join me walking he chats away constantly the whole 5kms, hardly even concerned that I probably only understand 5% of what he's saying. He takes me to the local internet cafe and after an hour on the net I'm just about falling asleep at the table...

It's incredibly hot but i figure I'll just walk to the edge of town, find a tree and crash out. The plan works and it isn't long before I'm away with the fairies.

I wake to dark clouds brewing in the mountain. Really looks and feels like rain but when I ask the locals they just all laugh and tell me it won't happen. There is a slight sprinkle but turns out they are right. I manage to get within 3kms of Dortyol, tonight's destination, before the clouds clear and a random guy on the side of the road invites me in for dinner...

Ali is typical of the Turkish populace. I stop for a chat, he finds out I'm from Australia then insists on feeding me. Maybe all the Australians that pass through Turkey are as skinny as I am and they think we don't have any food down there ;) But whatever the reason it's a wonderful way to travel!

It's getting dark by the time I leave but the walking is easy and it isn't long before I make Dortyol. There's not much around and hearing the beach is only 2kms away it sounds like a much better option for the night.

So for the fourth time this journey I cross a country to meet the Mediterranean! And what a wonderful sea it is to meet :)

I was dreaming of arriving, dropping my bag on the beach and crashing straight out on the sand but my fantasies are short lived. The high tide level comes within a meter of the road and with the restaurants, car parks and houses there's not much room for pilgrims :( Nothing else to do other than keep walking...

Going to buy a beer some young guys see me leaving and decide to follow. As soon as I find a nice quiet spot by myself they pull up next to me on their bikes :) It turns out to be a blessing, finding out I'm going to camp somewhere close by they point to the house behind us and tell me it's empty. Sure enough they are right and it's a perfect place to spend the night...

Pilgrimage from Karabacak to Osmaniye 19/07/08

2008-07-24T03:42:00.000-07:00

Footsteps and the sounds that shepherds use to round up their flock wake me, after a quick listen I can't hear any goats and figure this a polite, or more likely impolite way of telling to piss off :)

Packing my stuff up guy is 100m away when I emerge from the tent...and no goats :) The watermelon farmer who's field I have lobbed in turns up as I finish and after a quick chat decides I need a watermelon breakfast. Running into his field he returns with arms full. The "shepherd" seeing this also comes over to join us...

After a few kilometers a restaurant appears, the guy is out the front getting things ready...

"Are you open?"

He indicates for me to take a seat...

"Do you serve food at the moment?

He indicates for me to be patient... :)

Ten minutes later he comes over with bread, cheese, olives, tomatoes and tea and joins me for breakfast. Then doesn't even let me pay! :)

I make 10kms before coming across a river and a perfect place to wait till afternoon. A few of the local kids adopt me and it isn't long before they convince me to go for a swim. They dive in as I pack all my stuff up. Heading over to where they jumped in the locals fishing start freaking out...

"No, stop! Danger! Danger!"

The way they are acting I think maybe this is the local crocodile farm, but it turns out they are just letting me know the water is deep...

I bloody hope so, I'm about to dive in! ;)

The water is great and after twenty minutes playing around, much to the kids amusement, I start doing my laundry. It's then over to the restaurant for lunch and I sit for a few hours doing some writing.

This part of Turkey is extremely densely populated and as soon as one town ends another starts. It means I have to continually turn down offers for tea and food or I wouldn't get anywhere...

With 7kms to go to Osmaniye I stop for tea with a family, sure enough two minutes after sitting down they want to feed me :) With just over an hour of daylight left I want to try to make Osmaniye but trying to convince a Turkish family you don't want to eat is like trying to convince a Russian you don't want a drink of vodka! Doesn't matter how strong your resolve is or how long you argue they always end up winning ;) And the meal is absolutely superb! Cheers guys :)

Since I'm not going to make town before dark I take my time and it's not until 22:30 I finally hit the outskirts. Stopping for a drink at a service station a German guy comes over for a chat. He is here with his family and they have their campervan parked in the car park for the night. I turn to the service station worker...

"Can I camp here as well?"

"Of course!" he says with a big smile.

People keep telling me it's possible to camp at most service stations but this is the first time I have tried. He takes me out the back and points to a couch...

"If you want you can sleep here, otherwise camp where you want"

The couch looks perfect to me... :)

Pilgrimage from Cukurkopru to Karabacak 18/07/08

2008-07-24T03:39:00.000-07:00

Tucked away behind the warehouse I get to sleep in, it's not until 8am I get moving. The heat is intense right from the start and I welcome the invites for tea that keep coming my way :)

Stopping for a kebab for breakfast I realize I haven't had to bargain for anything for ages. I don't even ask the price beforehand and still get charged a lot less than what I have been charged anywhere else in Turkey. This morning I get a kebab, ayran, salad and two cups of tea all for 6YTL! Awesome!!!

Passing a bus stop a kid calls out and stops me for a chat. He's intrigued by my mp3 player so I let him have a play and have to laugh as he bops away in front of the camera. I go to leave...

"No, no...sit for a while"

"Sorry, i have to keep moving" I indicate for him to return the mp3 player but his grip tightens.

"Come on, I'm going...please mp3, mp3"

His attention goes back to the new toy in his hands and he continues to ignore me :) Oh well, if that's the way he wants to play...

Dropping my backpack and cameras I come back over to where he's sitting, and ask a bit more firmly for him to give it back.

"No, it's mine"

I grab his wrist and tell him to hand it over and am amazed that he remains so confident. I try to force his hand open and the reason for his confidence becomes apparent when he stands up. Here I was thinking I was dealing with a 15 year old kid but the guy stands and I realize he's an inch or two taller than me! And the way he's looking down at me he is obviously use to being able to intimidate people with his hight, what started as the possibility of a fun little wrestle is now quickly escalating into a full scale brawl.

With eyes locked neither of us are backing down and even though the thought of having a punch up over a €50 mp3 player seems stupid it is more the principle. I'm not letting some smart arse little punk rob me without a fight, but I would still prefer it if he throws the first punch :)

In one last ditch effort to avoid further violence and to let him know I'm not fucking around every muscle in my body tenses as I pull him close and let out an almighty roar centimeters from his face...

Bang, just like that his confidence shatters, his muscles turn to jelly underneath my grip and the mp3 player falls from his hands. Collecting my stuff I'm pretty happy with the way it all worked out. If we had ended up hitting at each other I would have been paranoid that if he lost he would run home, grab his pistol (which even if he doesn't have one I'm certain his friends do) and come for revenge. Apart from a small cut from his fingernails we are both unharmed :)

Stopping for a rest at a service station I'm disappointed they don't have a shop, I'm dying for a fizzy drink! It must show on my face because the worker runs over to a tourist bus getting washed next door and asks them for some Coke :) Wonderful!

Going to leave the guy stops me...

"No, now we eat watermelon"

Laughing "Sorry, I should go but thank you very much"

"No! We eat watermelon!" He hurries off returning with some freshly cut goodness :)

It's a hard life being a pilgrim ;)

Making Kardili I find an internet cafe to wait out the heat of the day, with the plan being to get another 10kms this afternoon to Karatepe. I don't know what this is but everyone tells me it is beautiful. It will add a few kilometers to my journey so I decide to do a little research to see if it's worth my while. A quick look on googlemaps and I realize my road passes it by and I will have to hitch the last few kilometers and that it's just a dam. Considering the Mediterannean is only two days walk away I'll give it a miss...

Darkness has fallen by the time I finally get moving and I'm very happy my road has now turned south. From here it's due south all the way to Beirut! I'm getting close!!!

A passing car slam on it's brakes. A quick glance behind confirms the car has stopped and much to my dismay the reverse lights come on. Ignoring it in the hope it will go away, I realize it is pointless and turn to see who has taken an interest in me. Please be friendly! I have had enough excitement to last me for a while...

The window comes down and a big smiling face greets me "Hello". Gelen is great! he teaches English at the local University and is super keen to take me back to his house to stay the night. Unfortunately he lives back in Kardili so I have to turn him down but we end up having a good long chat. Cheers mate :)

Around midnight and feeling exhausted I find myself a watermelon field and call it a night...

Pilgrimage from Yuksekoren to Cukurkopru 17/07/08

2008-07-21T13:19:00.000-07:00

The goats ensured I didn't get much sleep last night. Apart from their noise, whenever I did manage to drift off I would wake to find one nibbling at my sleeping bag, my backpack or sniffing my head...

Sure enough my first sight upon waking is goat nostrils bearly 3cms away :) Aberdeen and his mate are already up and about, busily collecting the morning milk.

"Ben, good morning! Come come..."

Aberdeen takes me into the throng and catching a goat gestures for me to milk it. Grabbing the teats I twist and squeeze but much to the goats disgust, and Aberdeen's amusement, nothing comes out.

"Here, like this..." Aberdeen grabs a teat and shows me how it's done. With that quick lesson I manage to get a pin sized hole squirting milk into the bucket, far from the hose Aberdeen has in his hands but at least it's something :)

A fun morning is passed wrestling the goats and after collecting our quota of milk it's time for breakfast. Rock thrower makes an appearance and enthusiastically apologizes for last nights shenanigans. Aberdeen, looking slightly sheepish, then makes shooting motions at me, shrugs, and apologizes as well :)

"No problem, no problem" There was no harm done...and besides, he's now given me a good blog story ;)

The video camera is set up on the tripod doing some filming and must have made an out of line comment to one of the passing goats. Suddenly one of them charges in and lays it out with a headbut :) Bloody goats! It's like looking after a hundred little kids that refuse to learn anything. You can throw rocks at them, hit them with a stick, kick them up the bum but they will still come back two minutes later and continue doing exactly what it was they were in trouble for before...

A couple of hours with them is more than enough for me!

Setting off towards Kozan I have one of these mornings which feels like I'm in a time warp. Every time I ask how far Kozan is I get the same response..."Five or six kilometers"!

After an hours walking, and probably five or six kilometers, I stop for a Sprite. Once again when going to leave the owner comes rushing over and says I have to stay for breakfast... :)

And he still reckons there is five or six kilometers to go! :(

The people in this area are incredible! After waking with the sun I was expecting to be in Kozan by 8am at the latest. Instead I get stopped every few hundred meters for all sorts of goodies. And by the mornings effort I believe I have now ventured into watermelon country :)

Finally around noon I stagger into Kozan, convinced the mornings walk must have been 15kms, no matter what everyone was telling me!

I have three things I want to do here before leaving. Hamam, internet and get a barber to give me a shave. Not caring which order they get done in the internet is the first to appear. The place is chock a block with kids and a big crowd surrounds me constantly firing questions. It's fun at first but having been off line for almost a week there's lot's to be done. Trying in vain to shoo them away I finally have to concede defeat and go elsewhere :)

The kids decide to follow and I resign myself to being stuck with them for the day. Besides they are pretty cool, even all chipping in to buy me an icecream! Guiding me through the back streets we run into one of their big brothers, I get invited back to his house for tea and it isn't long before other family members make an appearance bearing food :)

"You have walked for 50 days in Turkey!?"

"Yes, from Ipsala"

"Do you carry a gun?"

Laughing "No"

I get asked this question a lot around here and most people look at me like I'm lying when I answer "No". This suits me fine :)

"We do..." The guy reaches under the couch and pulls out a pistol...

Great...

Shrugging "But we don't have any bullets..."

Can't say I'm sorry to hear that... :)

Well fed, it's now time for a bath. All the kids loose interest in me except Suayp who nominates himself as my official tour guide for the day and off we go to locate a Hamam.

After a few days in the mountains and a morning wrestling goats a scrub down in a hammam is the perfect way to remove the thick layer of crap encrusting my body. And lucky I did, underneath the dirt is a big fat tick! Bloody goats!

Suayp waits for me to finish and after getting a shave and eating a kebab I'm ready to leave. Suyap has one more place he wants to show me though, an old colonial house which is beautiful and about to be opened as a boutique hotel. With a great view overlooking Kozan and quaint little rooms it is a perfect place to stop for a rest if you are ever traveling through these parts.

With one more stop at an internet cafe on the way out of town it's starting to get dark by the time I leave. The walk is nice, flat, cool and I even get given some Ayran when passing an Ayran factory. Some time around 11pm, spotting what looks to be an empty warehouse I set my self up out the back and call it a day...

Pilgrimage from Comluk to Yuksekoren 16/07/08

2008-07-21T13:08:00.000-07:00

Wow!!! What a place to camp. Perched in a small clearing a few meters from the road the hill drops off into a steep valley and the river below. With rocky mountains on all side Its a perfect place to wake and enjoy the morning...

Setting off, I only make a couple of kilometers before a family invites me in for breakfast :) These guys are awesome! Extremely entertaining people. The two girls take a liking to the video camera and we sit and laugh as they run around chasing the chickens, trying to catch them on film.

The trucks have thinned out and walking through this part of Turkey has become a pleasure...apart from the heat!!! It is still early but already stinking hot! Supposedly the temperature in Kozan, which I hope to make by this evening, was 40¡ yesterday.

Passing a little hut in Salmanli some kids run out and call me over. Happy for another rest I go for a chat. Turns out I just crashed the local religious education class but luckily the teacher doesn't mind, even ensuring that a minute after I sit I have a coffee in my hands...

The kids are great and are well impressed I can read their text books in Arabic. I don't understand any of it but it's good to know that my four months in syria wasn't completely wasted. At least I can impress someone, even if they are all under 12 ;) And from what I keep getting told, no-one in Turkey understands Arabic anyway, they only recite so my ignorance isn't discovered ;)

As I go to leave the teacher stops me...

"No no, you must stay for lunch..."

I don't need much convincing :) "Sure"

After learning some Islamic prayers the class ends and we retire to the back of the Mosque. The teacher's wife prepares an absolutely divine meal which leaves me feeling like curling up and going sleep. A few cups of tea fixes that and after a big "Thank you" I hit the road.

Fiver kilometers later I come across a restaurant and realize I've developed a bit of a celebrity status in these parts. I was wondering why the trucks had suddenly stopped asking me whether I wanted a lift...

It's great, every question I get asked is answered by another customer. Between them they already know everything about me. Name, age where I'm going, where I've been, what I had for dinner last night...It's wonderful being able to just sit and relax :)

When I start again it's the middle of the day and I realize I'm not getting far in this heat, spotting a beautiful spot next to the creek I set myself up to wait it out. Peacefully taking in my surroundings I get a shock when once again, just when I think I've found a place by myself another road sweeper spots me and comes for a chat :)

The evening walk is still hot but at least bearable, and the scenery is wonderful. Craving a Sprite I spot a little shop and go for a look. The next door neighbor informs me the owners gone to pray and comes out with some tea instead. There is a backgammon board inside so I challenge him to a game...

I end up spending a couple of hours playing away and it is well dark by the time I go to leave. They offer to let me stay but night walking is a pleasure at the moment...

A few dogs come to chase me out of town but even with my mp3 player on I get plenty of warning. Generally dogs start barking as soon as they smell me, at a distance of around 2kms, so I have lots of time to prepare ;)

The road turns straight and flat and I drift away in my thoughts...

Some time after midnight dogs start barking all around and I realize there are hundreds of goats in the paddock next to me. Grabbing my torch I ensure all the dogs are behaving. The road is a good 1-2m higher than the paddock and most of the dogs are happy running around below, only one makes the effort to come up and challenge me...

My adrenaline is pumping, with this many sheep dogs around things can turn ugly very quickly, but as long as I only have one directly challenging me I know I will be fine. Keeping him in the torch beam I'm surprised at how confident he is. Most dogs wont get within five meters with the full force of the torch directed their way but at times this one gets within a meter...

Yelling starts up around and I figure the shepherds are trying to get their dogs back under control, a rock lands between me and my attacker then all of a sudden things start getting slightly surreal...

A gunshot rings out and the next rock almost hits me...

Are they aiming at me???

With the gunshot the dog retreats so I swing the torch beam to the rock thrower. Sure enough this freaks him out immensely and the barrage intensifies. All my hard learned Turkish disappears in a flash as something comes out of my mouth that I'm sure is incomprehensible to all...

I can see by the moonlight the guy who fired the shot is running my way. Hitting him with the torch beam I make out he is carrying a pistol but my action causes him to stop dead, I watch in horror as the pistol gets raised in my direction and he braces himself to let off another shot...

Holly crap!!! He's not firing warning shots, these fuckers are actually trying to kill me!!!

My initial reaction is to drop to my belly, with the road higher than the ground below he won't have a shot, but this will do very little to defuse the situation. The good thing with pistols is I know most people would have trouble hitting an elephant from 30m, especially with adrenaline pumping through their veins. The chance of him hitting me is slim...I just pray he's not on the Turkish pistol team! Taking a deep breath I stand up straight, arms above my head and light myself up with the torch...

"Tourist! Tourist!!!"

The rock thrower stops immediately and even though I stalled the other guy's shot he doesn't look convinced. With the weapon still aimed at me he runs forward, getting within 5m before finally confirming I am what I claim to be. The pistol gets hidden behind his back as he comes over to start his interrogation...

I thought I remained quite calm but suddenly realize I am covered head to toe in sweat! My interrogator has a freaked out look in his eye which does little for my nerves, slowly my wits start to return and I can make out small pieces of what the he's saying. Managing to explain what I'm up to he finally extends his free hand to introduce himself...

"I'm Aberdeen. Come stay the night with us, it is dangerous out here by yourself"

Fuck! No kidding!?! "Thanks, but I want to get a bit closer to Kozan..."

"No come, stay! We can have tea and breakfast in the morning"

"How far is Kozan?"

"Five or six kilometers"

Wow, I covered a bit more distance than I thought...and I think that's enough excitement for one night anyway...

"OK, sure"

The rock thrower goes his own way and Aberdeen leads me to the spot he shares with another guy. They sleep under the stars and I'm happy to join them. I never realized how noisy goats are but get a few hundred of them together and they make a racket. Burping, coughing, farting, pissing. Combined with the adrenaline still racing through my veins it's a while before I finally drift off...

Pilgrimage from Burhaniye to Comluk 15/07/08

2008-07-19T10:42:00.000-07:00

Gale force winds are whipping at my walls as the alarm goes off. There wasn't enough flat ground to erect the tent last night so I'm just using it as a mosquito net, because of all the loose material it is making a racket! Grabbing the cameras I start my way up the hill...

Every step I take makes the peak look two steps farther away. I started at a jog and by the time I reach the top I'm just about crawling! I missed the sun rise by 10-15 minutes but it doesn't matter anyway, my view is blocked by another mountain and I still can't see the sun :( The winds are even stronger up here and it's not so enjoyable, I'm just lucky I thought to bring my jacket. Five minutes rest and I'm ready to make my way back down.

The walk up the valley is great and it isn't long before I reach Burhaniye. The town is tiny and my dreams of a morning cup of tea soon disappear. Making my way East I'm pleased when a sign to Kozan points me in the right direction, let's just hope it's not the last one...

The distance to Kozan is a bit of a mystery, varying from 60-95 kilometers depending on who I ask. My map soon becomes useless as villages start appearing that aren't marked and no-one has heard of the ones that are :) I am meant to be following the river but it isn't long before the road has me climbing ridge after ridge and in the heat of the day it's bloody hard work!

To top it off I have a constant stream of mining trucks whizzing by. The ground here is super dry and the dust is so fine that even when I walk I send up little clouds around my feet. The clouds the trucks leave behind are something else, often I can't see more than a meter and as for breathing... :(

So what should be an extremely peaceful stroll through the mountains is a nightmare, with the only conciliation being the view...when I can see it. With no idea how much distance I'm covering I keep at it, the only thing driving me on being the thought of a restaurant up ahead which people keep telling me exists...

Stopping for a break in the middle of nowhere I drift off, to be greeted on waking by a guy walking up the street...

"Salam alayikum"

"Wa alayikum essalam"

I have to rub my eyes to ensure I'm not still dreaming...He is walking along raking the road!!! What the...!?!

"What for?" you may be asking yourself, which is exactly what I'm still asking now! :)

Around 5pm my restaurant comes into sight and after demolishing a big bowl of stew, rice and a Coke I'm in much better spirits. The restaurant is set up for the trucks and many of the guys, recognizing me from the road, think I'm completely mad as I turned down their offers for a lift...but they make good company. I sit and chat, write some blogs, play some backgammon, eat more stew and by the time I'm ready to move again it's 9pm!

The moon is almost full and the rugged mountains, steep cliffs and deep valleys are are magical by moonlight! Out of the heat the walk is great and I consider walking all night. The only thing stopping me are my feet, even though I had a big rest at the restaurant it has been 17 hours since I started this morning! Time to stop...