Well...

Holly crap! I made it :) What started one mild spring evening with two friends downing a pint of ale in a bar a short stroll from Canterbury Cathedral finishes more than 6000kms and 18 months later with a small group of friends enjoying a Guinness in a small Irish pub in Jerusalem.

Apart from time and distance, what separates these two places is a multitude of experiences, some good, some bad, all of which contributed to making this one of the most challenging and fulfilling 18 months of my life.

My journey by foot has come to an end but the real journey continues as it always has...this is life. As many of you know Canterbury and Jerusalem were not locations chosen by me, nor do they hold any particular meaning for me. Rather they were presented to me, this is often the way life works...

All that I did was accept the challenge :)

And what an experience! This is the type of adventure I know will affect the rest of my life; the benefits will surely take some time to realize. I met some amazing people and experienced many breathtaking locations, I'd like to thank you all for sharing it with me, it meant a lot. I know some of you have been here since day one - cheers Niccu from Romania! I feel privileged that you and everyone else who's followed my pilgrimage took the time out of your own lives to participate in this journey with me. Thanks guys...

And then there's the other Party Pilgrims. Dan, whose adventurous spirit started this pilgrimage. Steph, my mother and solid walking companion for seven weeks. And Sabine, the crazy German woman who traveled half way around the world to participate without ever having met me. You guys are awesome and I know the bonds formed in those cold, desolate, hungry times will remain forever, I couldn't have asked for better walking companions! :)

One thing that failed to metamorphasize during the pilgrimage was a reason for doing it. The closest I come is...

Because I could!

And for me that is enough. I'm here to experience as much as life has to offer. Joy, happiness, fear, love, anger, desperation, loneliness, contentment, frustration, the list is endless, but a pilgrimage is an opportunity anyone can take to experience all that life has to offer in a very short period of time...



There are as many paths to God
as there are people on the planet...

I chose to walk...

Supporting MSF :)

Even though I was happy completing my journey without a reason I'm going to take this opportunity to ask for support for a charity which promotes many of the same values I hold dear, Medecins Sans Frontieres. These guys are awesome and it would mean a lot to me if you could all spare a small sum and follow the link below to make an offering.

MSF


Also, I'd like to recognize a another organization which is helping to open up the world, Couchsurfing. If you have never heard of this sight take a look, the concept sounds unbelievable but I can vouch for the fact it is true to it's mission and it does work. There are literally hundreds of thousands of people opening their homes to strangers worldwide...

Go give it a go!

www.couchsurfing.com


For people who travel regularly I'm going to recommend my phone company Sim4Travel. Forget roaming fees and receive calls in over 50 countries for free!

www.sim4travel.com


And for great travel insurance for backpackers try these guys. World Nomads has insured me for this entire journey and I'm happy to recommend them. They are cheap and have friendly staff but the biggest draw-card is the fact you can start a policy after you have left your country of residence, something that is quite unique. If you are looking for travel insurance these guys are well worth a look...

www.worldnomads.com

Pilgrimage from East Jerusalem to Jerusalem!!! Woohooooooooo ;)

"Hi, this is Chippy and Nay from HOTfm WA. It must be some ridiculously hour of the morning over there yeah?"

What the...?!?

As the haze starts to clear from my head I realize what's going on, the two chirpy callers are ringing for an interview :) I don't know what their producer feeds them for breakfast but to sound that good first thing in the morning is sickening. But thanks for thinking of me guys :)

Starting to drift back off my second wake up call comes in the way of 1000 Imams all yelling at once. Not since Istanbul have I heard so many voices competing for the airwaves.

Pleased there's daylight the next time I wake a rush of excitement rushes over me. This is it! Jerusalem here I come. Heading to the roof to get a look at my destination in the day I'm pleased with how close it looks...
Only four kilometers to go feet...

Father Roberto meets me for breakfast and for possibly my last "new experiences" of the road pours a big pot of coffee over my cornflakes. Tastes great though, cheers mate :)

Steph and Renee call wanting to meet up and join me for the last stretch. To save confusion I pick a big tower on top of the mount of Olives as the meeting place and set off.

Even the steep hill can't dampen my spirits and very step is a pleasure. Finding the tower is a mission though, it can be seen from all directions but not found :( A quick phone call and an alternative meeting place is all it takes before three very happy pilgrims set off for the old city.

It's strange how life works. Three years ago it was these same three pilgrims walking the Camino De Santiago together when we first met Dan, the guy who's idea is was to do this journey, It seems very right that this is how it's ending :)

Spotting the huge golden dome of the Rock and stopping briefly at the Gethsemane to gaze at the ancient olive trees where Jesus once sat it really hits me where I am. Jerusalem!

Lion's gate appears before us and I prepare for my big entrance...this is it, my journey is coming to a close :) The ancientness of the place is seeped into everything but the tourists are thick!

First stop is the wailing wall, after navigating the throng of mesmerized Jews I manage a little prayer and continue on towards the rock...

"What, it's closed!?! But it says here it is open till 14:30"

"Yes, but now it's Ramadan. It's closed"

"What time does it open tomorrow?"

"From seven thirty to eleven"

Oh well, tomorrow it is. But my pilgrimage will still finish tonight at the pub ;) I'm not dragging my backpack down here again tomorrow morning...

Two of Renee's friends, Quinton and Beverly, join us for the short walk to my third to last destination, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

What's a "Sepulchre" you may be wondering?

Don't know but rumor has it that this is the placed Jesus got nailed...to the cross that is :)

The place is packed and I have to laugh as a huge group of Russian pilgrims push and shove their way towards the entrance of an ancient wooden structure which is obviously the central point of interest in the place. Finally one of the priests looses it...

"Get back! Get back. Look where you are...are you animals?!?"

Renee's treat for finishing is a night in the King David hotel. This five star oasis is THE perfect place to put my feet up and relax....

Aaaaahhhhh... :)

As the afternoon draws to a close I have one final destination before I hang up my boots...the pub ;)

I couldn't think of a more appropriate place to conclude this adventure so making my way down to O'Connells Irish bar I waltz up to the counter and order a Guinness...

Beer never tasted so good...

:)

Pilgrimage from Jerico to East Jerusalem 07/09/08

Another 4am alarm has me up and about before the sun, but knowing this is likely to be my second to last day I'm not bothered. Steph wishes me well and I head of into the empty streets just as the Imam starts up his call for prayer.

The money changers weren't open yesterday and the local ATM only spat out Jordanian Dinar so I don't have a Shekel to my name. Could be a slight problem if I get thirsty.

Spotting a shop owner I get to ask a question I've been dying to ask for more than 6000kms...

"Good morning. Is this the road to Jerusalem?" :)

Passing a big building check to see if it's a hotel. The armed guards lounging around the front give me a start by diving for their weapons. I suppose they don't see too many people walking around at this hour. The good news is I can see the sign, "Intercontinental". I'm in luck :)

"Good morning. What do you want?"

"I need to go change some money"

"Sorry, you can't. It's closed"

"It shouldn't be closed. I will just go and ask reception"

"No, I can't let you in. Wait here and I'll call"

"Sure"

A minute later he returns with bad news, they don't want to let me in :( Time to act like the arrogant white Westerner I am...

"Look mate, this is a five star hotel. Of course the reception is open. I've stayed at Intercontinental hotels all around the world and I know they can change my money. I'm going to talk to reception"

Walking off the security starts to yell and I think that out of all the places I could choose to storm a five star hotel with a backpack this is probably the worst. I have a slight paranoia in the back of my mind...

Will they really shoot me???

The security guard's getting more irate and I can here him start to chase me. Stepping up to the front door the little voice in my wins out and I pause to let him catch up. Turning with a big smile...

"Look, I'll be two minutes. Just let me talk to the receptionist"

He doesn't answer but it appears he isn't quite prepared to manhandle me out yet. Following me to the counter he stands close as I greet the guy behind the counter...

"Good morning. I need to change some money"

"Good morning. I'm afraid we can only change money for guests"
Fixing him with a hard gaze "Look mate. I understand you are not meant to change money but I also know you can. It is possible! Yesterday the money changers weren't open and the ATM doesn't give out Shekels. I'm walking to Jerusalem today and that's a very long way without being able to buy a drink. I really need to change some money"

Smiling broadly "Okay sir. How much would you like" :)

Perfect...

The security guard suddenly turns in to my new best friend and couldn't be more interested in my journey...or at least he pretends to be anyway ;)

Hitting the road and passing through the checkpoints without a fuss it's into no-man's land. An easy walk to the highway and there's nothing but desert as far as the eye can see.

From four hundred meters below sea level I know I have some climbing today, as the sun emerges from behind the Jordanian hills I start the slow process upwards. It's already hot and and now I'm really glad I began so early.

Intent on getting to the edge of Jerusalem today I make great time. The "sea level marker" comes and goes and by the time I need a rest I'm at 150m. Lying down in the shade of the road cutting, the only shade around for miles, I soon drift off only to wake a couple of hours later sweating and in the full force of the sun.

My water's getting low but I know I only had to make twenty kilometers before finding some facilities...can't be too much further. And it isn't, under an hour later I'm sitting in a great little cafe eating shakshuka, a typical Israeli dish made from eggs and tomato. Delicious :)

After a big rest I get back into it, making another four of five kilometers before staggering into another cafe and collapsing absolutely soaking in sweat. The owner looks slightly amused and a slightly unsure, but after finding out my story is extremely welcoming.

Emerging from the cafe a new man, the sign out the front cheers me up even more...

"Jerusalem 20"

Twenty kilometers to go! Unbelievable, that leaves ten to fifteen tops for the evening. With the slight breeze which has just started and the pleasant temperature the weather is perfect!

Hitting a fork in the highway I decide to take a risk. The road to the right indicates it leads to Jerusalem but from the map I saw yesterday the town to the left should be perfect for me to stop the night in.

My confidence isn't boosted by the first people I talk to...

"Where are you going?"

"Jerusalem"

"Wrong way! You can't go to Jerusalem this way. It's forbidden...forbidden!"

"But for a foreigner is it okay?"

"No, impossible! You have to catch a bus and go back to the highway"

I know I have to pass the dreaded separation wall at some stage and it must be getting close. If I'm going to have trouble I'd prefer to pass today and not have to worry about it tomorrow. My main concern though is the feel of the area I'm in isn't good and it will soon be dark.

As the sun disappears so do all the people, all home to feast with their families. Out of the blue a big church appears...Bingo!!! :) It's been a while since I slept in a religious establishment and I couldn't think of a better place to spend my last night. After knocking a couple of times to get some attention I start to walk away but the creak of the door draws me back. A middle aged priest is there to greet me but is sad to inform me the place is a nunnery and no men can stay overnight. Pointing down the road he lists a couple of other places I might be able to try.

Slowly people start returning to the streets and I'm pleased the tension in the air has all but disappeared. It's amazing what a little bit of food, nicotine and coffee can do for a person ;)

All the churches are closed and none of the mosques will take me, with no hotels in town I'm starting to feel a bit desperate. Following another guys directions I finally come face to face with the wall. And what a sight! One of the more unfortunate uses of modern day engineering...the separation barrier.

Stretching without an entrance as far as I can see in both directions I decide to make my way north. At least if I can't get through I will have to hit the highway at some stage. Without a road I'm sometimes walking through olive groves, sometimes through alleys and sometimes climbing over big rocks all the while with this monstrous slab of cement and barbed wire to my left...and all the while feeling very vulnerable. Starting to get a bit stressed I'm not sure what to do, I don't really want to camp here but I'm running out of options.

An old guy spots me and asks what I'm doing...

"Trying to get to Jerusalem...but I can't find a door through the wall. Is there a door anywhere?"

"Yes, of course. Down that way" Pointing in the direction I've come from "Here, I'll show you"

The guy speaks great English and I'm relieved he seems to know what he's on about. Leading back to a point 100m south of where I started a small gap appears guarded by some soldiers. I call out to the guy in the watchtower...

"Hey mate, what's the chance of me getting though here?"

"Sorry, what?"

"Is there any chance of me getting through here?"

"You want to get through?"

"Yes, into Jerusalem"

Waving me through and giving me a look like I'm slightly mad "Of course, go, go!"

After a quick search of my bag the soldiers on the other side let me past. So here I am! I'm in Jerusalem!!! What a feeling :)

Right next to the checkpoint is a gate to a big church. Pressing the buzzer I'm pleased when thirty seconds later the gate glides silently open. A few priests greet me on the stairs and after hearing what I'm up to are more than happy to put me up for the night. Champions!

Setting myself up Father Roberto appears and asks if I want to have a look on the roof. I'm pretty tired but why not. Winding my way up I'm stocked with the view...there in front of me are the lights of Central Jerusalem!

Only four kilometers to go...

:)

Pilgrimage from King Hussein Bridge to Jerico 06/09/08

Steph's call to let me know she's leaving wakes me at six. the taxi driver explained to her they only let a set amount of people through each day so we are keen to get in early.

I only just manage to pack up my gear in time, as I sit down on the roadside a big van screeches to a halt next to me...

"Shit, you were quick!"

Pointing to the driver "Tell me about it" :)

Five minutes later I'm back at the bridge, surprised there's already a line up of cars. The good thing about being on foot is it doesn't matter, we're straight to the front.

The place is empty and we find out the immigration office, for people without their own vehicles, doesn't open till eight. We have an hour to wait. One of the cops takes pity on us and lets us sit in his office, happy to chat before the other workers start arriving.

Without too much fuss we're on the bus heading over the bridge and into Israel...

Yes, that's right...BUS! Once again I can't walk across the border, but this one I can understand ;)

Chaos greets us on the other side with noone knowing what's going on anywhere. Finally figuring out their system, which could have saved us 20 minutes with one simple sign, we manage to get through to the Israeli immigration. Now the fun begins...

Steph gets straight through but with two trips to Lebanon and five months in Syria during the last year I'm obviously going to have some problems. Taking a seat a young guy comes over with my passport in hand...

"So Ben, you like to travel?"

"Yes"

"Why did you not fill out this form completely with the countries you visited before here?"

"Because I've just walked from England there's not enough space to list them all" I give him all the details of my pilgrimage including studying in Syria and give him my blog address so he can check for himself...

"You have been to Lebanon twice! Why?"

"Once skiing, once walking through"

"When you were in Syria did you have friends take you around to see anything?"

Laughing "Yes, I have Syrian friends and yes, sometimes we went sightseeing"

"And after you finish in Jerusalem where will you go?"

"Don't know...maybe Yemen"

"Yemen!!!"

"Yes, I need some time out and want somewhere that's cheap"

Shaking his head with a slightly bemused smile he instructs me to wait and leaves me to it. So I wait, and wait, and wait...but I'm not the only one there's a whole seated area designated for people like me. I Chilean woman sits next to me...

"I can't believe it! They're all kids. All of them!"

Which is true. I can't see anyone who looks over twenty five in the whole office, no wonder there's such chaos. And the really amusing thing are the guys doing security. Wearing civilian clothes and walking around toting their M-16s like thugs it's quite a sight.

Finally I get the "okay", meet Steph on the other side and try to work out a town to meet up. Asking at the taxi office the guys not impressed...

Barking at us "What, you want to go to Jerico!?! It's Palestinian!!! What will you do there"

Shrugging "Eat lunch"

I'm glad he doesn't have anything to say to that :) Steph books a bus ticket and I set off, not impressed it's now 11:30 and super hot. One of the gun toting teenagers cuts me off as I'm leaving...

"What are you doing?"

"Walking to Jerusalem"

"You can't do that!"

"Of course I can, I've just walked from England" :)

"Nah, I don't believe you. Your legs are too skinny!"

Laughing "They may be skinny but they got me this far"

"I'm just kidding, but you can't walk through here. It's military for the next two kilometers. You can get a taxi to the edge though"

"How much will that cost?"

"About seventeen dollars"

"Seventeen dollars!!! How can it be seventeen dollars for two kilometers"

Shrugging "That's just what they charge. Good luck"

Luckily they only charge me ten dollars but still, $5/km crazy anywhere in the world! :) Hopping off in the middle of nowhere I set off towards Jerico. The first thing to hit me, well second after the heat, is the stillness. The slight purr of a tractor can be heard in the distance and apart from a bird chirping overhead the only other sound is the squeaking of my backpack. All alone and covered in sweat I start to wonder if this is total madness.

What the fuck is that!?!

A huge yellow gate appears across the road, this must be one on the Israeli checkpoints. Approaching cautiously there's not a soul to be seen...

I stop, wait, call out. No response...

I walk around the side to see if it's possible to bypass it only to be met with a huge wall of cement and barbed wire...

Hmmmm...

Returning back to the gate I spot a small intercom. I press the button imagining a doorbell ringing out through Jerico...

The gate glides silently open. Looking around there's still noone to be seen. Thirty meters later I make out some soldiers behind a thick layer of bullet proof glass, which some kind individuals took upon themselves to test...just to ensure they are safe inside I'm sure :)

Now inside Palestinian controlled territory people start appearing. I'm surprised with the carefree way I'm greeted, the enthusiasm shown by the other Arab countries I've passed through has disappeared. They are still extremely friendly yet greet me with nothing more than a wave before going back to what they are doing. I suppose they've seen it all before.

Dragging myself into the center of town a locate Steph and after a quick discussion find the "oldest hotel in the West Bank"...well, according to the owners anyway. Hisham Palace is way over priced for what it is but with the heat outside we can't be bothered searching for anything else.

Much to our relief Ramadan ends and we head to the square for dinner. After a quick stint on the net we make our way back to the hotel and I psych myself up for my walk to the edge of Jerusalem starting tomorrow morning... :)

Pilgrimage from Middle of Nowhere to the King Hussein Bridge 05/09/08

After a restless night Steph's up at first light...

"We're short of water, we should get going before the sun rises"

"Sounds good"

"Are you feeling any better?"

"Well that's a very broad question isn't it!" She snaps...

Yes it is, but I think it's answered :)

Looking out over the desert hills I take a moment to enjoy the stillness. Magical! Setting off Steph's still not in a good way. It's already bloody hot and I can tell she's struggling.

Finally a big dam comes into view with small shacks starting to dot the desert. At the first inhabited place we come to I go to get a drink while Steph waits on the road. I'm completely out of water. After I shoo away the dogs and make my way to the camp the woman feeding the cows ignores me completely. Standing in the middle of their yard I notice a scarved head pop out a window smiling broadly...

"Hello"

"Do you mind if I get some water?"

"No problem"

Calling out to the other woman she lets her know what I want. She comes over with a sour look on her face...

"But it's Ramadan!"

"I know...but I'm not Muslim"

The woman's look sours some more, luckily the girl in the window seems to think it's quite funny and saying a few words explains I must be Christian. Sour face gives me a quick glance up and down before indicating I should follow, leading me to a small tent with a big jug of drinking water. Gulping down a mug full I don't feel right asking to fill my bottle. Meeting Steph back on the road I offer to walk her back...

"NO, I don't want to go back! I can't believe you didn't fill your bottle!"

"No, I didn't. But if you want I'll walk you back"

"No!"

I can see Steph's completely out if water but civilization can't be too far away. It better not be anyway or I'm going to be carrying her out :) Ploughing on it's slow going and getting hotter and hotter. Much to our relief an army ute pulls into a driveway ahead, the first car we've seen all day!

"Excuse me, do you guys have water?"

Searching around the truck we're dismayed what they manage to rummage up...empty bottles :(

"Here jump in"

There's not really much choice. jumping in the car they take us down to their office, water never tasted so good! :) Steph collapses on the footpath deciding to get a taxi back to Amman and fly to Jerusalem. She's over it!

Hitching a ride back to our pickup point I make my way down the hill to Steph. She takes a little convincing but I finally manage to talk her into walking the last kilometer to the main road.

Still not sure where we are we decide to hitch. If Steph is comfortable with the driver great :) If not it looks like I'll be heading back to Amman...

Five minutes of standing in the sun and we're over it, the problem is we don't know which direction the closest town is. Just as we're both about to loose it a taxi pulls up...

"How much to Amman?"

"Five Lira"

"Five Lira!!!"

"Yes"

Thats that. We say our farewells and agree to meet in Jerusalem. A bit of a strange parting but under the circumstances it's as good as it gets. I'm still super glad she made the effort to be here :)

Heading west I only make two kilometers before getting invited in for a drink. But this is one of the problems about being a tourist in Ramadan, my hosts can't join me in and I feel slightly guilty gulping down huge amounts of Sprite in front of them :)

The heat's now in full force and when I head off and spotting a market 200m down the road I stop once more. The guys here are great and hiding out the back of their store are happy to sit, smoke and drink tea :)

"How far is King Hussein Bridge?"

"Not far...about eight kilometers"

WOW! That's awesome :) I'm a lot closer than I thought. Not knowing what time they close for the day I decide to leg it down there as fast as possible. Even though it is stinking hot I make reasonable time and after a few short brakes make it down to the bridge...

My last border crossing!!!

Feeling very happy with myself I approach the first checkpoint...

"Sorry, we are closed"

Ugghhhhh! "When do you open next?"

"Eight am tomorrow morning"

Oh well, could be worse. I did hear a rumor they weren't open on Saturdays which would have been a real fucker. An American couple with a hire car also get turned away and offer to give me a lift back to town. Cheers guys :)

With no hotels for 50kms there's nothing to do other than stuff around until dark and camp close to the border. Having no luck finding internet at least one restaurant I ask lets me eat out the back which saves me from being completely miserable. And the heat just keeps getting worse and worse! Even spending the day sitting still in the shade it isn't until 6pm I finally stop sweating! Awesome!!!

Darkness finally sets in and walking a couple of kilometers back towards the bridge I find a nice clearing on the side of the road to set camp. This close to town I feel more comfortable in my tent but even at this hour it's like a sauna, it takes me a long time before I drift off...

Pilgrimage from Amman to Middle of Nowhere 04/09/08

Oooooh my God!!!

What the fuck am I doing up so early! It's 4am but knowing in another few hours I'll appreciate the effort I drag myself out of bed to pack the remaining gear still lying around the hotel room. Now this is really getting exciting! Due West to Jerusalem!!!

But first we need to taxi it back to the Roman Theater :) Which we do after a quick breakfast at the hotel, one of the main advantages of Ramadan for anyone silly enough to be up at this hour...4am breakfasts :)

The streets are almost empty and with map in hand Steph and I head off in search of our road to the border. It's great to have a walking companion again. It's been three months walking by myself and I'm sure I must be slightly mentally destabilized by the experience ;)

The temperature is perfect and with hardly any traffic the walking is great. Steph knew she would only be walking a few days so her gear isn't up to scratch. Her small backpack starts hurting straight away so I offer to carry her heavy stuff, the least I can do since she made the effort to be here :)

Trying to locate the same road we drove out on a few days ago we think we are in luck and head out of the city. Because of Ramadan none of the restaurants are open but at least we can still rustle together some nourishment from the mini-markets.

Seven or eight kilometers from the city we strike our first hurdle...the highway disappears within a small village. This isn't the road we drove out on! :(

"Where's the map?" Steph asks...

"I didn't bring it, we drove the road the other day and I thought we would just walk straight to the bridge"

"What do you mean you don't have the map!?! Didn't I ask if you had the map before we left?"

Laughing "Yes, you did. But that was only the map of Amman" :)

She doesn't look impressed...

Yep, the joys of a pilgrimage...and yes, obviously I haven't learnt anything from my last 6000kms :) But what it has taught me is I know I will be fine and I know I will get to my destination...

Just might take an extra few kilometers :)

Asking the locals doesn't get us far, all they want to do is send us back to the bus station in Amman but finally asking at a pharmacy we have some luck...

"Yes, go straight down here to Iraq Al Mere. Then ask there..."

So off we head. The temperature's starting to rise and the road begins winding up and down the small hills in front of us. Sweating more than two Sumo wrestlers in a Sauna we stop regularly before finding a great little resting place under a tree by a creek.

Crashing out I'm sleeping peacefully when suddenly a blood curdling scream rings out through the hills. Sitting bolt upright I realize the horrendous noise came from my mother and the two culprits are taking flight as fast as their legs will carry them...

Their reaction confirms their guilt and before I realize it, and still not knowing what happened, I make chase. Racing after them barefoot through the fields I slowly gain as they make it to the road and continue upwards towards the village.

They may be sixteen or seventeen but they definitely aren't fit. Sprinting up the hill I can see them tiring fast and know it's only moments before I catch them. They must realize the same thing, darting up a nearby driveway they turn to lob some rocks, briefly slowing me down, before tearing off again. The good news is they don't have anything in their hands so at least the didn't manage to steal anything.

A car with an old guy driving is making it's way down the driveway and being a small town I'm sure he will know them...

"Hi, do you know these two?"

He looks at me warily, obviously not sure what's happening, and he must have seen them throwing rocks at me so he knows somethings going on...

"No, why?"

"They were trying to steal from us. What are there names?"

Looking more uncomfortable "Sorry, I don't know"

"Are you Muslim? That is Haram! What are their names?"

"Yes, I'm Muslim. And it's Ramadan!" He points in the direction the two fled and spits on the ground "Ramadan!"

I stifle a small laugh. It's one thing to do something wrong as a Muslim in normal times but in the month of Ramadan it's a big no-no. I'm sure this guy must know them and I can understand him not wanting to give me their names. If I get the police involved it will be a big deal for the boys but also a huge problem for the families. I figure this guy is disgusted enough that word will get back to their them and things will sort themselves out. Wishing him well I set off back to the river to find out what happened, and if they did actually steal anything...

Steph laughing "Were you defending my honor?"

"Yes, I didn't know what they were doing but if it was bad enough for them to run like that then it was bad enough for me to chase them. What happened?"

"He grabbed my arse" Steph announces, impressed that even though our cameras and valuables are lying around in the open, the kids decided it was more important to get a feel of her bum than to make a quick buck from our cameras :)

I'm glad she's taking it well and can see the humor in it...little bastards! :)

Getting a little more rest and feeling slightly paranoid some rocks will come hurtling off the mountain side we make a move. The sun's now in full force and we take it easy stopping often.

Collapsing in an olive grove it's time again for a quick nap. As we wake, our next door neighbors pay a visit to find out what we're about. Quickly disappearing they return bearing water and figs and are happy to sit and chat...

"You can't walk this way. Its dangerous! There's nothing out there. Just desert"

"How far does the desert stretch before we reach some more towns?"

"Maybe twenty kilometers"

Twenty kilometers is doable. If we get a good chunk done this evening then start early before the heat we should be fine. Steph starts to look a bit worried though as we set off. I can understand, this is pretty wild country :)

Only a kilometer later and right on the edge of town a few young boys call us over to a little shop to shout us a Pepsi. I can tell Steph's starting to fray around the edges, firstly I've never seen her drink a Pepsi in my life and secondly as we go to leave she doesn't bother buying water...

Will half a liter be enough???

Knowing that she survived over 1000kms walking with me through Europe I let it slide, she's a big girl and knows what she's doing...

Looking out over the hills as we depart there's nothing to be seen as far as the eye can see. Nothing! No trees, no shrubs, no houses, no fences...nothing!

Steph shoots me a glance like she's about to strangle me for not bringing the map...ooops :)

The heat's still intense and even though it's starting to get late, with the steep up and down of the road the walking is hard. I can see Steph's struggling and for good reason, we've had a big day. Having already covered over thirty kilometers I'm happy to call it a night but Steph wants to keep at it. I figure she'd prefer to get as close to the edge of the desert and civilization as possible before tomorrow.

We now are in a funny situation. If there was a bus Steph would bus it out of here but not surprisingly she doesn't want to hitch by herself and we aren't really sure where there is to hitch to.

Kilometer after kilometer of desert finally takes it's toll, Steph cracks. There's been no traffic for couple of hours so I can't even hitch out with her. Darkness is falling and with no other options we set camp to wait out the night...

Just after dozing off I'm woken by a 4WD stopping barely 50m up the road from us...

Shit! I hope they're not hunting...

Steph's also awake and the tension in the air thick enough to carve with a knife. A minute goes by and they still haven't moved and I fumble around for my torch so if someone starts shooting I can let them know we're here.

Finally they depart but it doesn't even feel like I slept for five minutes before being woken again by the "tap tap tap" of a semi-automatic rifle firing close by...

We aren't getting much sleep tonight I'm sure...