Pilgrimage from Gonluk to Sarilar 14/06/08

For some reason even with a comfy bed and all the beers last night I wake early this morning feeling great! Checking my phone I'm surprised to see it's only 06:50. So having a shower and packing up I head back to last nights hotel for breakfast.

Surprisingly they are happy to see me and I get a good feed before trying to set off. The one thing I really need to do here is buy a hat. All the stores open except the one that I've been told is where the hats are :( After loitering around town for over an hour one of the shopkeepers invites me in for tea and his friend comes and joins us...

Pointing at me "Muslim?"

Smiling "No"

"Catholic?"

Smiling "No"

"Christian?"

Laughing "No"

This confuses him a bit and he starts again repeating the questions again...

"No Muslim, no Christian, no catholic, no protestant..." I say smiling.

The shopkeepers daughter understands a little English and is looking slightly amused. Her look of amusement soon turns to embarrassment though as he tries again...

Pointing between himself and the shopkeeper "M-U-S-L-I-M..." Then pointing at me...

I just laugh shaking my head and shrugging.

The shopkeeper tries to put him out of his misery and seems to do a good job of explaining, the guy stops talking for a minute...

We all go back to our small talk before he starts up once again...

Pointing at the sky "Allah" Then pointing at his head.

I get the feeling he is asking me if I believe in God. This is a question I have a hard enough time answering in English and I'm certainly not going to try now with grunts and hand gestures....

I just smile and shrug

The guy isn't happy but the shopkeeper smiles at me, says a few words to his friend, who then excuses himself and leaves. Maybe sitting with an infidel was a bit much for him this early in the morning ;)

Finally my hat store opens! The choice is limited but beggars can't be choosers and I make do with this beauty here. Perfect :)

The road out of town is straight uphill which is always a good way to start the day. But my body is feeling great and I make good time before stopping for a picnic lunch 10kms later.

Finding a shady spot I set myself up and start writing on my computer...

tap tap...

Was that rain? The sun is still shining and looking up I see a small cloud which seems pretty harmless. Mustn't have been...

tap...tap...tap, tap...tap, tap, tap, tap, tap tap tap tap...

Suddenly it starts pissing down! Where the fuck did that come from??? The sun is still shining, the cloud above me still looks harmless, but me, and all my electronics, are suddenly becoming extremely wet!!!

I have shit strewn everywhere and I have a moment of panic trying to bundle everything up safely. Getting out my poncho I sit on my pack trying to cover as much stuff as I can. It seems to be doing the trick but if this rain lasts any more than five minutes I think I'm going to be in big trouble!

Luckily it doesn't and as quickly as it came it disappears. Just like that...

The mountain walking is brilliant. Quiet roads, great views, friendly people! Wonderful :)

Even though I didn't get going till after 10am this morning, by 21:00 I have still made 35kms. Days like this are great. I'm feeling good so I figure I'll take a rest, then try to make another 7-10kms before calling it a day. This will give me around 27kms tomorrow...

Arriving in a tiny village called Sarilar I get a bad feeling about the group of dogs up ahead. Most dogs in these parts have been friendly but for some reason I can tell these ones aren't. There are about six or seven in view and as I get close the leader starts up barking and running towards me. Normally more than one or two dogs attacking me at the same time scares the shit out of me but today I don't seem to care. I am even slightly looking forward to the challenge as I speed up my pace towards my adversary.

Not willing to tackle me head on he swings around to my back and has to go wide to avoid my boot. He has a collar on with HUGE spikes which in any other situation would look extremely comical. I wonder who he had to mug for that???

His barking and carrying on excites the others and I start to get a bit worried as more and more dogs start appearing from everywhere. There are now around 15-20 in sight but luckily for me only 5 or 6 are actually trying to do me harm.

With boots flying and tripod swinging I manage to keep them at bay. After a couple of close calls I bend down and pick a a big rock. This does the trick and sends them all running! Just then a truck comes around the corner and sounding his horn scatters them further. This gives me the break I need and before they can regroup I'm 50m down the road.

Passing the local Mosque two old guys come out to have a chat. It's just on dark and after finding out what I'm doing they invite me to stay the night :) The Mosque has accommodation next door and they show me into a great little apartment.

And then to top the hospitality off I get an invite for dinner as well. Champions :)