Pilgrimage from Goreme to Urgup 07/07/08

The phone goes off and I can see it's still dark...

Who's ringing me at this hour???

Glancing at the phone I don't recognize the number and hang up. Sitting bolt upright I realize that was the ballooning guys. Holly shit!!! They had to confirm with me this morning they had space. I grab the phone and luckily for me they must be use to this and ring straight back :)

"Hi, it's mike here from Kapadokya Balloons. We are pleased to say we have some space available, are you OK with a flight this morning?"

Bloody ay!!! "Sounds great to me mate...see you soon"

Excitedly rounding up all my stuff I head out the front to await the minibus. It's all go down at the office and after a quick coffee and some biscuits to wake us all up we get into it.

Mike was down at Fatboys last night watching the tennis as well, but because he starts work at 2am left before the rain delay...

"Did you see the end of the tennis?"

"Yeah, it got rained out again..."

"I know. But then they came back on again. Did you not watch the end?"

Laughing because I think he's joking with me I suddenly realize from his face he isn't...

"Nadal won in the fifth set"

You've got to be kidding me! The most epic game of tennis in history and I missed most of it. Not impressed!!! I'm sure it's not going to be these two's last battle though...

And now we have some ballooning to cheer me up! :)

Cappadocia from the ground is absolutely amazing but I have to say experiencing it form the comfort of a hot air balloon is something else. Effortlessly gliding from valley to valley we are treated with some spectacular sights that just can't be experienced from ground level. And I'm amazed at how much control the pilots actually have, they are able to hover within a meter of the ground or stone pillar before skillfully maneuvering away.

Mike, our pilot, is a character, keeping us entertained with his wit the whole flight. He has been flying balloons in this area for over five years and definitely knows the ropes. He was even able to fly us within reach if an apricot tree for an "in-flight snack", but I have to say his last "feat of strength" to show off really took the cake...

Here we are in the middle of the dessert with nothing but dust and rocks as far as the eye can see. From a couple of hundred meters above the ground Mike spots a pile of rotting lemons, no bigger than the balloon basket, which to the untrained eye is all but invisible from this height. Concentration etched upon his face he uses all his knowledge and cunning to successfully land us smack bang in the middle of them! Unbelievable effort Mike! You can tell it's obviously not the pilots job to clean the basket ;) And I have to say smelling of rotting lemons is a big improvement on smelling like pilgrim!

Safely back on terra firma (if you can call a pile of rotting lemons that???) we head over for what I've been told is a ballooning ritual, the champagne breakfast. Thinking back, I haven't had one of these since Champagne! Well overdue ;)

And once again I need to say a big "Thank you" to Kaili and Lars from Kapadokya Balloons. A truly magical experience that I will never forget. Cheers guys!

A 04:30 wake up call and Champagne breakfast really isn't conducive to walking anywhere, so after being dropped of at my hotel I have a decision to make...Go back to sleep or get going???

After a big breakfast and a bit of internetting I decide to make the move to Ugup. It is only 11 or 12 kilometers after all...

With a rough idea of where to go from Googlemaps and the bird's eye view from the balloon flight, I work my way into the labyrinth of sandstone pillars. The original plan soon disappears as I spot a sign pointing me towards my destination. I work my way from valley to valley surprised at how few people are out and about, I almost have the whole area to myself...

I soon realize that even though the signs have my destination written, the only thing they point to are "tea houses". I'm completely lost! But it doesn't really matter, the walking is great. I couldn't ask for a better scenery to be passing through.

Stopping for tea and a fun little chat with a family from California, the waiter points me in the right direction. With my destination in sight I head up the valley only to be met with a wall of sandstone blocking my way. Climbing one of the pillars I can see my track on the ridge next to me but the sandstone cliffs look unassailable...especially with the backpack. Heading back it isn't long before I find a section of the wall I'm sure I will be able to scale...

Starting slowly I crawl my way up knowing there are only two small sections that are likely to cause me any real grief. The first one is not too much concern, if I fall I will just bounce a couple of meters before hitting the ground but coming to the final section it's time to concentrate...

The wall above me is barely two meters high but is almost vertical, with a seven or eight meter drop to the ground below. The trick here is to be patient, I am in no hurry. Always having three firm points of contact, I move my fourth limb, get a hold, test, test again then slowly transfer my my weight ensuring my three firm points of contact...

It works and feeling extremely pleased with myself I clamber over the ridge onto the track above. Five minutes later I make Sunset Point and decide to celebrate with a glass of wine :)

A straight forward walk brings me down to Urgup and feeling slightly exhausted I realize it took almost four hours to complete the journey from Goreme. Not quite the easy day I had been planning but an enjoyable day none the less.

All I want to do is have a shower and a quick nap but all the hotels I'm finding are either overpriced or overly dodgy. If the shower looks like I will emerge dirtier than what I went in I'd prefer to camp ;)

Hotel Akuzun looks pretty posh but I decide to try my luck anyway...

"How much for a room?"

The guy points to the board next to him and I think it looks reasonable at 55YTL but then realize it's in Euros :(

"Are you a student?"

"I can be" :)

I'm impressed that Ahmet finds this funny as most people I try this with in Turkey don't look amused at all...

"OK 45 YTL"

A bit more than I want to spend but I'm tired, the place is great and I like the guy...

After a quick shower I head back over to Goreme to hang out with the balloon guys. A great group of people and what do you know...I arrive just in time for dinner :) Jess has prepared an awesome feast of meatballs and with a couple of beers it is a perfect evening.

Heading out for a beer back in Urgup the main bar in town is dead. It is Monday night but surely I can't be the ONLY tourist in the whole of Urgup wanting to go out for a drink! After talking to a few locals they tell me there is another bar down the road but it is also dead. A few beers later I decide to have an early night...

On the way home I spot the other bar but the guys were right. Dead! The workers are all sitting out the front on beanbags and there is a backgammon board close by...

"Do you guys want a game?"

They joke with each other and I can tell they don't take me seriously. Finally, after a bit of encouragement from his friend's one of them agrees. Considering the response I got when asking this guy is probably the worst player out of all of them but his coworkers are still impressed when I demolish him 5-1 :)

Once again trying to make my way back to the hotel I pass a wine bar with laughter emanating from within. Poking my head through the door I come face to face with a guy I take an immediate liking to. Jayjay also use to live in Japan, is well travelled, and now owns this place here. Sitting with a group of friends having a few drinks they are more than happy for me to join. Everyone speaks English and they have a great sense of humor, a very pleasant way to finish the night.

Jayjay's friends decide to call it a night and glancing at the clock I can't believe my eyes...it's 5am!!!