Pilgrimage from Az Zarqa to Amman 29/08/08

Steph's plane was due at 05:30 and only being 20kms from Amman I'm sure I can meet up with her before lunch. The dreaded sound of the alarm wakes me at six, dragging myself down to check out a guy I haven't met before is in reception...Jihad :)

Yes, Jihad. Rather unfortunate name to have in this day and age, especially being well traveled, which is probably why he follows up with...

"But my Western friends call me Jo" :)

Jihad won't let me go without joining him for a coffee but this early in the morning I don't need much convincing.

Hitting the highway I'm amazed it's already hot, thank God I left the hour I did. Without a map It's impossible to judge how far I've come but with regular coffee breaks I'm sure I'm making good time. Out of the blue I stumble upon a big old Roman theater. This is the one thing we really miss out on coming from Australia, there's nowhere you can walk where you may stumble upon any ancient architecture but in these parts it's common place...

The tranquility of the adjacent park is too much to resist, out comes the Apple and I set myself up for some writing with a tea. A local tourist guide joins me for a chat...

"How far to the city center?"

"This is the city center"

"Here!?!"

"Yes, wait...I'll get you a map"

True to his word he returns bearing a map of Amman and I'm incredibly pleased to see I've already made the city. Heading straight to an internet cafe I call Steph, finding out she's on the other side of town in an apartment she sourced on Couchsurfing! :) Go Steph!!!

Jumping in a taxi it isn't long before I locate our meeting place. The last time I saw Steph was when she left me in Damascus last winter so it's great to catch up...and especially here, less than 100kms from my destination! Cheers mum :)

The apartment is shared with two American guys, Taylor and David who are great value. Both are relaxed and easy going and couldn't make us feel more welcome. With a shower and free wireless I'm in no hurry to go anywhere, the evenings spent relaxing, talking and writing which is perfect...

Pilgrimage from Thughrat Al Jubb to Az Zarqa 28/08/08

Waking from a wonderful sleep a quick glance around ensures I'm safe to roll over and continue on. The sun has only just risen and there is not a sole to be seen, except for the occasional car driving below on the highway. Perfect :)

Waking again around 7am the air is still cool and with the sky slightly overcast I couldn't ask for a better day. Enjoying the nothingness I pack up my gear and set off...

Tap tap tap...

Big heavy raindrops start falling around me. Slightly panicked I glance skyward and am pleased the sky above me is blue. Rain is the last thing I'm prepared for and the last thing I was expecting out here. My waterproof bags aren't done up and there's no shelter as far as the eye can see. If it starts pissing down I'm in big trouble :(

The view behind isn't comforting, or what I can see if it anyway. Only a few kilometers from where I stand the desert disappears into a thick haze. God I hope that's not rain...

My pace quickens and the big drop ease off, within half an hour there's not a cloud to be seen and the temperature begins to rise...maybe rain wasn't so bad after all :)Encouraged by the continuous flow of waves and cheers from the passing traffic I soldier on. A line from a movie keeps popping into my head...

A merchant wishes the hero well as he leaves his tent "May you find water and shade..."

To someone who has never walked through the desert this is a pretty obvious yet strangely meaningless statement, but now I get it in it's entirety...and I really need some shade! Completely in my own little world I don't even notice the tree on the hill next to me until a rubbish collector yells out, literally jumping off the ground with enthusiasm to get me to join him. Sitting on a bit of cardboard with a little fire next to him for his tea he greets me like he's the happiest man in the world.

With a big toothless grin, sharp eyes, dark weathered skin and a bright orange safety vest he's a character, it's just a shame he's camera shy ;) There's only one glass between us and he insists on forgoing his tea so I can drink. Sitting there in the middle of nowhere enjoying a simple lunch of bread and cheese I feel entirely content.

Continuing on I only make 5kms before the heat starts getting to me again, it's now after midday and the sun is in full force. Spotting a tunnel I think I'm in luck but the incredible stench of wild animal knocks me back. Or is that just me???

Deciding it's probably this or nothing I make myself comfortable and quickly crash out. Feeling dazed on waking I try to get back to sleep but the smell and the flies become too much, I've got to get moving!

An oncoming police car slows down beside me and I prepare to for some questions. The next thing I know I'm blasted with their loudspeaker...

"WELCOME! WELCOME TO JORDAN!!!"

I can't help joining in as their cackling continues out the loudspeaker as they drive off :)

Turning off the highway I'm met with nothing but military facility after military facility. It seems a never ending wall of concrete and barbed wire, and just to tease I'm sure, all the trees are safely tucked away on the other side.

By the time I reach Az Zarqa I'm exhausted, having walked the last 14kms without a break. I'm also about to die of thirst! Collapsing at the first shop I come to I can barely speak and it isn't until finishing my second drink I finally start to make some sense.

Mahmud, Adel and Ahmed are awesome and ensure I'm entertained while I'm there. They don't let me pay and then insist I come across the road for watermelon. Now this is what I needed. Eating so much I can hardly walk I say a big "thank you" to the guys and go in search of a hotel.

Locating the center of town I soon find what I'm looking for...

"Do you have any rooms available?"

He rings up and checks with the boss "Yes, I only have one room left but it comes with TV and A/C"

"How much is it?"

"Twenty-five Pounds"

"Can you do it for ten?"

"The rooms without TV and A/C I could do for ten but this one I can not. Come have a look and then we'll see..."

He takes me upstairs and shows me the room...

"For you, you can gave it for 18 pounds. With a TV this is a good price"

"I will take it for ten, that's it. I really don't need a TV"

"Actually, we have one more room just like this but slightly smaller, you can have that for 15 pounds"

The next room is dodgy so pointing back to the other room...

"If you want I'll take that one for ten, otherwise I'll continue looking"

"Actually, we have one more room if you want. This one doesn't have a TV and you can have it for ten"

Wankers :) Normally I would leave at this stage but I'm hot, tired and want to do some writing...

Sighing "Yep, that will be great. Thanks"

Going for dinner and a quick stop at the internet I set myself up in my room typing. With one blog almost finished the "You are now running on reserve power" warning flashes...

I'll just finish this story then plug myself in...

One story leads to the next which leads to the next. Suddenly the computer shuts down...

Noooooooooooo!!!!!

Why do I do this to myself when I'm behind in my blogs. The document isn't saved!!! Frantically plugging the computer in my fears are confirmed...gone! :( I have a moment of despair, want to cry, want to throw myself out the window then take a deep breath and start again.

It's hard when I get behind on my blogs. All my spare time goes into trying to catch up and the problem is it's never ending, as soon as one blogs finished there's more stories to tell...

Pilgrimage from Syrian-Jordanian Border to Thughrat Al Jubb 27/08/08

An early start to the day will do me well so waking early I try rather unsuccessfully to get it together. By the time I'm out the door it's almost 9am! Setting off towards Jordan I'm soon to discover the hotel is not actually in no-mans land at all. One more Syrian roadblock is left to cross...

"Passport please"

I hand him my documents...

"This stamp is from yesterday! You can't cross today!"

"What!?! I stayed in the Taj hotel last night"

"Yes, no problem...but you need to go get another stamp"

Now, why the fuck they put a hotel in between two roadblocks that can't be passed on separate days is completely beyond me but the guy's not budging. Taking a deep breath I take my passport and go to head back...

"Wait, I'll stop a car for you so you can get a lift back"

This cheers me slightly as it's a bit of a walk. Arriving at the immigration office and making it to the front of the line I explain to the officer what I need...

Giving me a look like I'm causing him a lot of trouble "Wait here"

I wait as he processes the guy behind me, then the next guy and the next...

"Sorry, is there a problem!?"

"Yes, of course there's a problem! You got your stamp yesterday and your still here!"

"Of course I'm still here! I stayed in the hotel 500m down the road! I don't understand what the problem is!"

"Do you have a receipt?"

"They didn't give me one"

"Well, I need a receipt"

Taking another deep breath I trudge back to the hotel, get my receipt and return rather unamused, but luckily for me with receipt in hand they are much happier. Pulling out a sheet of paper they fill in my details and with so many names I'm obviously not the only poor bugger who's been screwed around by this system...

Smiling broadly "Okay, you can go..."

Forcing a return smile "Thanks"

What a mission! Making it back to the original checkpoint I pass through easily and one kilometer later take my first steps into Jordan :)

There's always a bit of uncertainty in the air when passing into a new country...

How will the police treat me?

How will the military treat me?

Will there be a restaurant in the next 100kms?

Hitting the first Jordanian roadblock a soldier yells out rather aggressively. heading over they demand my passport and ask why I'm walking...

"Your from Australia! Welcome, welcome. Here, take a seat"

"Thanks"

"You have walked from England!?!"

One of them rushes inside and returns bearing coffee...

"Here, please. for you"

The guys are great and we sit and chat for a good ten minutes. I go to leave and a soldier once again disappears inside returning with a big bottle of water. I only just filled up so politely refuse but not to be deterred he rushes back in, this time returning with a can of Pepsi. I couldn't ask for a better introduction to jordan :)

Clearing immigration without a fuss I pass the last checkpoint around 11:30, what a morning! But now there's only 90kms to Amman...and less than 200kms to Jerusalem!!!!!!!!!!!!

Everyone told me "Syria is hot, but wait till you get to Jordan!"

And they were right. The first thing to hit me is the temperature, it's hot! Really hot! So hot when I take a deep breath I can feel the sides of my nostrils start to burn! So hot I have to be careful not to burn myself when adjusting my grip on the camera tripod! It's hot!!! I'm obviously not getting far before evening, but I'll try...

The good news is though it's dry, not nearly as unbearably as humid heat and I find it's still possible to walk. Making four kilometers a little shop appears and I collapse on their balcony. I'd like nothing more than to wait here out of the heat and as I set myself up a guy comes over to chat. He's nice enough for the first five minutes but after that starts to drive me a little crazy. I'm too hot and tired to deal with him and after twenty minutes there's nothing to do other than bludgeon him to death with a blunt object or keep walking...

I keep walking :)

The next restaurant is great and with a big carpeted area filled with cushions I've soon crashed out. Wonderful!!! Wonderful that is until I get the bill. I asked the price of everything as I bought it and know the bill should be two pounds. The guy's telling me ten!!!

After a bit of an argument we agree on two pounds and feeling recharged I get into it. I love walking in the desert!

Stopping at Al Mafraq for internet and dinner I walk off into the night. By 11pm I've covered my 30kms and spotting a little hill just off the highway head up there to find a sleeping spot.

Lying under the starts is magical but as I'm drifting off I can hear some wild dogs barking in the distance...

Let's hope they don't get to close...

Pilgrimage from Khirbat Al Ghazalah to Syrian-Jordanian Border 26/08/08

Waking with my alarm at 7am the thought passes through my mind "Why did I bother finishing the movie?"

I want to get some blogs written before Maya comes but it isn't going to happen, rolling over I fall back asleep. Snapped back to reality by the phone it's Maya letting me know she's thirty minutes away.

Meeting her as she arrives I'm extremely happy she made the effort and offer to shout her brunch...

"Let's eat in the next street. The restaurants here piss me off"

Which they do, like any tourist area worldwide they are well over priced with a constant stream of people harassing you to buy something. Bugger that :) As we leave the square the last restaurant on the corner gives me a great vibe...

"Let's eat here"

With the tables centered around a fountain the atmosphere is peaceful and even though it looks expensive the environment is worth it. Catching up over a meal of chicken, rice, hommus, yoghurt and olives I'm left feeling very content. The bill arrives and I can't believe my eyes...550 Lira! That's the same amount the other restaurants wanted to charge me for one plate! A bargain with two teas, softdrink and the starters! It's comforting to see not everyone is caught up in the "Let's milk the tourists for all their worth" crowd :) No wonder this restaurant sends off good vibes.

From here it's in to the theater and I'm well impressed. I have to admit, the only reason I made the effort to get here was because all the other travelers I talked to who have seen a lot of ruins all say this is worth the effort. And I'd have to agree...

What makes the Busra theater so unique is that it is still in almost perfect condition. So perfect concerts still get held here. Quite extraordinary! Maya has been here before and is happy to act as my tour guide. From the theater it's down for a quick stroll around the old city before she has to find a bus back to Damascus. Spotting a juice stall in the square maya turns to me...

"Do you want a juice?"

"Sure, sounds great"

"How much is the orange juice?"

"One hundred lira"

"One hundred lira! For for one or for two?"

"For one"

Laughing "Come on, I'm Syrian! You can't charge one hundred lira for a juice. How much really?"

"One hundred lira"

Maya starts to look pissed off...

"Even in the expensive areas of Damascus you don't pay more than fifty lira for a juice on the side of the road. Are you stupid?"

"Oranges are expensive here"

"I'll give you one hundred for two"

"One hundred and fifty for two"

She turns to me...

"Do you still want a juice?"

"Nah, bugger him. I'll just get a bottled drink"

Maya removes two bottles from the fridge and assuming the prices are standard everywhere in Syria hands him fifty lira...

"No, seventy-five!"

"Look, the price for these is forty lira! Fifty is more than enough!"

"No, seventy-five"

Maya slaps her fifty lira down in disgust and walks away...

"See, that's how you have to deal with them. They are stupid!"

I have to laugh :) I'm glad it's not just the foreigners who have to go through this...

The bus isn't until 2pm which leaves us just enough time for a game of billiards. Saying our farewells I head back to the restaurant to wait out the heat. A couple of hours and two cups of tea later I go to leave...

"Could I please have the bill?"

"No"

"No, the bill, the bill"

Making dismissive waving motions at me "No no"

"No money?"

Smiling Broadly "Welcome welcome"

It does give me a bit of faith when I meet shop owners smack bang in the middle of touristville who still maintain some dignity and honor...cheers guys :)

A quick taxi ride back to the highway leaves me on the edge of Seida and not knowing if I'll find any restaurants elsewhere I stock up on more fried chicken. With my belly full of grease and feeling very ill I start hitching back up the highway. A policeman walks down from his office to find out what I'm doing...

"I'm hitching about ten kilometers that way then I'm going to walk to Jordan"

"Why?"

"Just for fun"

"Aaaah, very good. Very good"

Walking into the middle of the road he stops a truck and instructs him to take me where I want. Now that's the way to hitch :) Relocating my intersection I get to it. It's already past 6pm, a bit later than I wanted to start, but it means the conditions are now perfect for walking.

Thoroughly enjoying my last steps in Syria the distance goes quickly and I walk into the night. Rapid footsteps sound as I pass a building, a voice calls out in a mix of French and English...

"Mister, stop! Come here!"

Glancing over I have the feeling I'm next to a military complex but having learnt my lesson after getting shot at in Turkey I'm not game to hit them with my torch...

"Are you military? Police?"

"Stop mister! Stop! You must come here"

They didn't answer my question and are moving close. With my torch beam aimed just in front of he leader I give it a quick swivel up stealing a glance. Flicking from one to the next I don't like what I see. Three young guys, probably 22-25, all well dressed are coming out of a construction site. A bad feeling hits my straight away, they have the look and character of wanna be gangsters and I'm not sticking around to find out...

"Mister, mister! Come here!"

"No...goodbye"

Now, they are probably just university students who have found a good place for a party and want to invite me along but I'm not going against my intuition. Their language is aggressive and if they want to talk they will have to follow me up the road...and if they are willing to do that the conversation will be held in the middle of the oncoming traffic :)

A car zips past and using it's headlights I glance back to check if they are following, much to my relief they have stopped on the roadside watching me retreat.

By 11pm I hit the border and a policeman at the first checkpoint comes out to meet me...

"What are you doing?"

"Walking to Jordan"

"Ha, you can't do that! If you walk past here I will arrest you" Indicating to the car next to him "This is Abu Khali. He will take you to Jordan"

"No, seriously. I'm just walking. I've walked across the other Syrian borders with no problem. Why can't I walk here?"

He doesn't look impressed...

"If you want to walk, fine! But as soon as you pass here I will arrest you"

He takes my arm and much to the amusement of the other offices tries to manhandle me into the car. I decide it's time for some peer pressure. In Arabic and loud enough for everyone to hear I explain that I've walked all the way from England (obviously leaving out the part about driving across the border from Greece to Turkey ; ) ). My ploy appears to work, I suddenly have a big group swarming asking questions, then loosing interest they go back to their dinner. The original officer is still making motions like he's going to handcuff me and I resign myself to being driven. Abu Khali has already gone and there's no more cars, loitering around for another minute I slowly start edging away. The officer looks up...

"Okay, go go"

Making shooing motions at me it's all the encouragement I need :)

The official at the next checkpoint welcomes me with a cheeky look in his eye...

"Please sit, sit" Motioning to the bench next to him

"Where are you going?"

"Amman"

"You are walking?"

"Yes"

"And then?"

"And then I'm meeting my mum on the 29th and after that I don't know"

He gets distracted with another traveller and I get up to go...

"No, please. Sit, sit. I want to talk"

"I have seen you walking yesterday and the day before on the highway. Where did you start?"

"England"

"England, wow! How long has it taken you?"

"In total the walking has taken about eight months"

He explains to the other two workers what I'm up to and they all nod approvingly. Once again I get up to go...

"Ben, I have one question for you and you have to answer truthfully"

Taking a deep breath. Here we go :) I glance up at his face and am pleased he still has a playful look in his eye...

"So, are you going there?" Pointing west

Laughing "You know I can't answer that truthfully. How can I answer that?"

I am normally open with the fact I'm walking to Jerusalem but the one place I really don't want to let them know is here at the immigration office. Anywhere else they would have to go to an effort to get me blacklisted but here it will take one flick of a pen or click on a keyboard and that will be that. A rule about coming to Syria is they will not let you in if you have EVER been to Israel...

"So you are going to Tel Aviv!"

"No...to Jerusalem. My walk will finish there"

All three of their faces light up with big smiles and I can see nothing but admiration in the look from my questioner...

"Ben, you are a very good man. A very good man and a very strong man. Now you are free to go..."

Luckily for me none of the other immigration officers recognize me as a walker and before long I'm in no-mans land, a couple of kilometers from Jordan. Out of the blue a big flash hotel appears and I can't believe my luck. It looks expensive but I figure if they will let me stay for $30 I'm all for it...

"Hi, how much is a room?"

"Just you?"

"Yes?"

"Twenty dollars"

"Twenty dollars!?" I'm sure I heard wrong

"Yes, twenty dollars"

I can't believe it! With marbled floors, 24 hour reception, mini-bar, free internet, business center, TV, 24 hour cafeteria and a big new bathroom it is probably the best value hotel I have ever stayed in. Bit of a funny location, in no-mans land and all, but with a duty free shop downstairs selling vodka at $8/Litre I think this is where I'll come to retire ;)

Pilgrimage fom Al Jibab to Khirbat Al Ghazalah 25/08/08

A picturesque tree fringed lake, glistening in the mornng sun is the first thing to greet me as I wake. What Luck :) I didn't know a lake existed down here and to have randomly picked this place to camp is a miracle. Feeling incredibly content and peaceful I consider taking a photo but being a bit lazy doze off instead...

Opening my eyes once more I can't believe the sight in front of me...desert as far as the eye can see. The lake's disappeared!!! Should have taken that picture when I had the chance ;)

With hunger driving me on I make a move, shortly to arrive at Al Ghazalah. The chance of getting food at this hour is looking pretty slim, I slowly weave my way through the narrow dirt streets a passerby offers to show me a restaurant :) Ordering a big bowl of fool I'm in heaven...just what I needed!

A young guy spots me eating, comes over to the cafe and introduces himself. Turning to my host...

"What are you doing? He should be eating in your house!"

"House, restaurant, same same"

"I'll take him to my house then"

"But he's already eating"

Pretending I don't understand I absorb myself in my beans. An older man comes over to join us and turning to my host...

"What are you doing? He should be eating in your house!"

I have to laugh but start to feel a bit sorry for him, he has been extremely helpful and polite and now is copping grief for it :)

Of course noone lets me pay and as I head off the young guy offers to walk me back to the highway. Wonderful s I have no idea where I need to go. Passing through the fields I suddenly realize I'm surrounded by tomatoes! The mystery is starting to unravel...

"Where do you get the water from to grow tomatoes?"

"Underground"

That explains it. The far South of Syria has a thriving tomato industry based on ground water. Who would have thought??? Not me :)

Returning to the highway in great spirits the walking is a pleasure. Shops and restaurants start appearing again and the only concern I have is trying to decode the syrian street signs...

I've noticed that the distance to the Border is sometimes more than to Daraa, which I thought was just a mistake but it's starting to happen more and more often. If it's true it means I'm not on the right road and not heading to the right border crossing :( I really need to find a map!

The fruit stall workers ensure I don't go far without entertaining conversation and there's always a cup of tea waiting when I'm tired. AND they confirm I have to leave the highway to reach Daraa...not good!

The plan was to spend the night in Daraa, bus to Busra in the morning to see the old Roman theater then walk to Jordan in the afternoon. Right on dark I hit the Daraa turnoff and decide on a change of plans...

I'm going straight to Busra :)

Sticking out my thumb it doesn't take long before I'm 7kms from my destination. Waiting on the side of the road for another lift a car pulls up and I jump in...

"Where are you going?"

"Busra. Are you going to Busra?"

"Yes, yes...no problem"

Arriving at my destination and grabbing my bags I turn and shake the drivers hand...

"What, your not going to pay?"

Laughing "No"

"What, you have to pay, I'm a taxi!"

I'm not entirely sure if he's taking the piss and quickly checking around for a meter or taxi signs, I'm pleased there's nothing to be seen...

"Your not a taxi! Where's your meter or taxi signs?"

"Of course I'm a taxi! My car's yellow"

Yellow???

Popping my head out once again I confirm his car is yellow...

"That doesn't mean your a taxi!"

"In Syria ALL yellow cars are taxis"

Hmmmmm, I try to think if anyone I know has a yellow car. No luck. A police officer is close by so the driver suggests we talk to him. Sounds good to me...at least I will ensure I get a fair price :)

The cop thinks it's pretty funny and before we know it there are about five cops milling around all joining in the fun. Spotting a yellow car down the road that looks nothing like a taxi I'm sure this will destroy his story that all yellow cars in Syria are taxis...

"Look, that car down there is yellow! Is that a taxi?"

All faces turn and reply in unison...

"Yes"

Shit! They're joking right???

Well, they aren't. With that cleared up we agree on a price and wish each other well. Lucky he also has a sense of humor and wasn't pissed off.

All I want now is to find a room, have a shower and crash out. Unfortunately all the accommodation is dorm style and none of the "hotels" have showers, just buckets of water in a filthy little room. Finally locating a place with a hose I figure this will have to do. After a cold hosing and a quick walk around the old square it's time for bed. One of my good friends from university, who was incredibly pissed off I didn't see her while I was in Damascus, is coming to visit tomorrow.

Hopping into bed I have the great idea of watching a movie, the problem is though, once I've started a movie I can't not finish it. And this movie is crap! Really crap. The one stage where it looks like it's just about to get exciting it ends! Bloody unbelievable...

Pilgrimage from Darayya to Al Jibab 24/08/08

The constant buzz of mosquitoes drove me crazy last night and ensured I didn't get much sleep. I'd wake, smother myself in repellent, fall asleep then wake an hour later when the repellent started wearing of with mosquitoes biting my nose :( I really should have got it together to put up the tent but oh well...

It's 5am when I decide to get moving, feeling like I've been hit by a truck! The temperature is still cool and the highway is not so busy ensuring the walk is pleasant.

As the traffic starts to pick up I can't believe my eyes when truck after truck zips by laden with tomatoes. Like, literally every second vehicle on the road!

Where are they coming from???

I know the next 50kms is nothing but desert and everybody tells me from the border to Amman is the same story. Strange...very strange :)

Yesterday evening there was restaurants and service stations in abundance this morning is a different story. I'm greeted with nothing, nothing and more nothing. But the one good news is my old university is along here somewhere and even though it's summer holidays the teachers still have to work and I'm sure the cafeteria will be open.

The problem is on foot it's a lot farther from Damascus than I realized! By 10am I'm starving, every time I round a bend I pray this will be the last one and it never is, as I'm giving up hope and thinking I must have past it last night the big AEU" sign comes into sight! Thank God for that :)

"Ben! Ben!"

Snapped out of my daydream I look up to see a small truck pulled over on the side of the road. A woman's waving at me frantically, as I near I realize it's Sabaha and Abdula :)

"Hi Ben, we've been looking for you. You have come a long way"

Smiling "Yes"

"We are on our way to see some relatives in Daraa and we bought you a sandwich in case we saw you"

Oooooohhhh, champions!!!

It may just be my hunger but the sandwich is divine and washed down with a can of Pepsi I couldn't ask for more, what a treat! Some people are just too nice :)

Arriving at uni I'm disappointed both my teachers are away on holidays but the surprising thing is there's students everywhere! What are they all doing here during their break???

Finding a seat in the cafeteria and stealing some wireless it isn't long before some old friends recognize me and come for a chat. I find out everyone's here for "Summer school"....makes sense :) but noone can believe I've just walked in off the street on my way to Amman. They all knew this was what I'd be doing after I left in the winter but it's another thing to see it face to face...

It's great to catch up with every body but as time ticks away I realize I better get moving. Back on the highway I'm straight into a headwind, which is pleasant because it's cool but combined with the passing trucks ensures I'm constantly running back to retrieve my hat :( Makes for slow going...

Once again there's not a restaurant to be seen and just on dusk a turnoff appears to a town only one kilometer off the main road. Worth a try...

Two hundred meters from the turnoff a truck driver's delivering goods to a factory, I ask if they know whether there is a restaurant in town...

"No restaurant...but you will find I corner shop"

"Cheers" Better than nothing...

"But wait. Stop here and let's eat. Please wait..."

Opening the food cabinet on the side of his truck he searches around for any goodies he has to offer, emerging with a tin of meat, bread and some cheese. Looks great! :)

Setting ourselves up he joins me for a few mouthfuls but the other guy politely refuses...

"Okay Ben, I've got to go now. Welcome and enjoy"

He walks off down the street and it's then I realize he's not the truck driver! The other guy is and I have to stifle a giggle at the thought I've probably just been offered his dinner :) If he's bothered he doesn't show it and is still very polite, cheers mate :)

Continuing on into the night my bodies feeling great but it doesn't take long before I'm hungry once more. Around 11pm I spot a flashing light with a building next to it, finally I'll get to fill my belly! Pushing hard it's not till I'm almost level I realize it's a police station! :(

Rather demoralized I only make it another 200m before laying out my sleeping mat and calling it a day...

Pilgrimage from Damascus (Philistine Camp) to Darayya 23/08/08

Having another good sleep-in I wake feeling very lazy. This morning was meant to be for walking but there's no way in the world that's going to happen :)

Rami wakes, heads downstairs to locate some nourishment and returns bearing fool, a Syrian bean dish perfect for breakfast. Champion! Making the decision to start walking around 5pm with the hope of avoiding the heat, what else to do other than lie around, watch the games and smoking nagile :)

Rami and Alaa are thinking of walking with me for a small section but as the time draws nearer they both feel less and less motivated. Five rolls around and any slight interest that might remain is quickly vanquished by the rolling thunder greeting us at the doorway...

Is it really going to rain???

Making our way down to Rami's shop the occasional big drop crashes around our feet, but rain or no rain I'm going to get moving. Enjoying one last cup of tea the rain starts to fall in ernest, but luckily for me by the time I'm finished it's all moved on...

With the sky clear Rami decides he can spare thirty minutes and sets of with me. Passing from Philistine camp into Yarmouk it isn't long before the apartment buildings fade away into desert and the road is almost empty.

Wishing me well Rami turns back and with the thought "it's only 200kms to Amman!" fixed in my mind I head south. My road suddenly veers to the west which suits me fine. West is where the highway lies and as long as I'm heading south, west or somewhere in between I'm happy.

"Hello, hello, welcome"

A woman comes racing out of her house, arms waving and intent on getting me to join them for coffee. I'm going to be walking half the night anyway so why not :) Sabaha and Abdula are awesome, sitting in their loungeroom they couldn't be more welcoming and soon enough invite me to stay the night...

"Sorry, I've only just started walking. In the day time it's too hot but at night the temperature is perfect"

Abdula is having a very hard time comprehending why I'm about to walk off into night and sleep in a tent when there is a perfectly comfortable bed waiting for me here. Luckily Sabaha gets what I'm doing and manages to convince him I will be okay... :)

"Okay, but let me drive you to the highway. From here to the highway is not a place you want to be walking after dark"

"I'll be fine, thanks anyway"

I can see the concern on both of their faces and even though I have never felt unsafe walking around Syria at night, there are some areas of every country that are best avoided after dark. Walking out the door I start to realize I might be in one of them...

I know the highway is only a few of kilometers away so I'm not too concerned. It is a bit disturbing though that every person I ask for directions freaks out and starts making motions like I'm going to get my throat slit.

Two young guys hear me asking about the highway and volunteer to be my guide...

"Ben, this way"

"But the highway is that way"

"No, no...definitely this way!"

I'm sure the highway isn't in the direction they want to take me but with only empty fields in the right direction I will stick to civilization as long as I can...especially with these two tagging along ;) The stupid questions start straight away...

"Have you got any money?

"Just a little"

"Dollars or Syrian pounds?"

"Syrian pounds"

"Do you know karate?"

Sighing "No...no karate"

"Have you got a gun?"

"No, no gun"

"It's not safe out here, you should have a gun. Do you have a mobile phone? Let me see your mobile phone"

We are all alone and I decided I've had enough of this conversation, if they want to converse further they will have to learn some English... ;)

"Sorry, I don't understand"

"Mobile phone! Do you have a phone? What is your number?"

Shrugging "Sorry, don't know"

A small crowd comes in to view and I breath a sigh of relief...

"No Ben, down this way"

They point to a small alley but there's no way I'm leaving the bigger road...

"No, I'm going this way"

"But the highway is down here. This way, this way"

Reaching the group I once again ask for directions and sure enough the highway is in the opposite direction to where these two want to take me. The direction giver has a comforting smile and offers to walk me to the turnoff, I take a liking to the him straight away. Thankfully the two young guys loose interest before my new guide departs and I continue on alone.

Finally reaching the highway I get a quick rest with some truck drivers for fruit and tea before again turning south. Walking into the night I don't make it far before a old man in full Islamic dress, robes, beard, little hat and all, comes running up and stops me for a chat...

"Come, sit with me for tea"

"Sure"

He smiles warmly as we walk back to his tent...

"I have many children, do you have any money for me?"

Laughing "Sorry, I'm happy to come and talk but I won't give you any money"

"Yes, no problem no problem"

Receiving curious looks from the kids we sit on a carpet out the front of his tent drinking Pespsi...

"You like?"

"Yes, it's nice. Thank you"

"Now how much money will you give me?"

"Nothing, sorry"

Firm hands grasp the side of my head and suddenly my face is only inches away from my hosts. Cold dark eyes are staring into mine, he makes a quick throat slitting motion then alternates between chanting and blowing in my head...

"Okay, now you can go"

I'm not entirely sure if I've just been blessed or cursed but going sounds like a great option to me :) The family finds it all very amusing and saying my thanks I hastily depart.

I manage some good kilometers before finding a nice little spot off the highway to call it a night...