Thursday 10 July 2008

Pilgrimage from Hamzali to Gulsehir 05/07/08

I'm well aware I camped in full view of the farmhouse last night so waking at 6am I'm proud that I actually manage to get moving at a decent hour.

As I start to pack up my sleeping bag footsteps close in and a gruff voice sounds outside. Shit, was he polite enough to wait for me to wake before finding out what I'm doing or is this just a coincidence? It didn't sound like he walked from very far...

Sticking my head out and explaining myself, the guy is eager to get me up to the house for tea. Packing my stuff up I go to meet the wife and they sit me out the front yard for a chat.

The guy has to go work before the tea is ready but instructs me to wait till he gets back. After 15 minutes I get out my laptop and start my blogs and after one and a half hours I start to realize I must have misunderstood him. It doesn't look like he's coming back and the old lady is probably wondering what the fuck I'm doing lounging around in front of their house :)

Packing my stuff away I go say "goodbye"...

"No,no...Chai, chai" Making swirling motions with one hand like stirring tea (something that every Turk must learn from birth)

OK...I sit back down wondering how long they will be...

The farm dog keeps me company and is one if the beasts I really hope I don't run into in a dark alley one night. His head is bigger than mine and I'm sure he probably weighs more than I do as well!

Half an hour later the guy turns back up with other workers in tow and I'm glad I made the effort to stay! Not only do we get tea but a HUGE feast of fried capsicums, eggplant and potato, fried tomatoes still sitting in an inch of melted butter, home-made jam, olives and fresh fresh bread. There is so much food with seven of us eating we still only get through half of it! Awesome!!!

Setting off in great spirits I round a corner to see a massive farm dog on the track ahead, easily as big as the one keeping me company at breakfast. With no owner in sight I'm not taking chances and arm myself with a huge rock. Barking as I get close he is blocking my way, but not looking too threatening. This is the biggest dog I've come face to face with so far and if I had walked confidently past I think he would have let me be...but getting within two meters I make the mistake of hesitating...

Bang! He's on the attack and my swinging rock is the only thing that averts disaster! Even though he is big, with the rock I have in my hand I know I will be able to inflict serious damage if he comes within striking range so it isn't long before I have him on the back foot and can still move forward.

My confidence is short lived though, glancing up I see my worst nightmare coming true. Another dog just a tad smaller, but a lot younger running over to join the fun. Now with two dogs both big enough to reach my throat and easily big enough to knock me off my feet the game changes. There is nor flurry of boots, tripod and rocks this time. Now we are playing serious!

Centering myself I know my only chance is to keep them both on the same side. If they flank me I'm fucked. The younger dog realizes this too and swaps between charging forward and trying to swing around behind me. It's a game of chess, every time he tries to go around I either have to attack, or scuttle around the back of the older dog...

With only one rock I'm not keen to throw it, using my boots when on the attack and the rock on the defense I manage to keep them at bay, but I know I'm likely to tire a lot quicker than they are...especially with my pack still on!

My heart misses a beat as I see more movement down the road...thank God it's the shepherd running frantically towards us. He is still 30 seconds away so my attention is straight back to my adversaries. They haven't even given their master the slightest hint of recognition and the game continues...

With arms, legs and stick waving madly the shepherd throws himself into our midsts, looking at me apologetically as he brings the dogs under control. There's nothing else to do other than smile. There was no harm done :)

The adrenaline takes a while to work it's way out of m system, that was the first time I've actually really felt in danger of getting more than just a bite or two...

Stopping for more tea with more farmers I finally emerge back on to the main road 10kms from Gulsehir around 1pm. Even though I was moving by 06:30 I have still only covered about 12kms :)

And then again as i stop to pick some dut from a nearby tree...

"Hey mate, take as many as you like. There free! Actually do you want to come in for a drink?"

Yoshkun speaks great English and works as a high school Arabic teacher. Having previously worked as a seaman he is well travelled and I great guy to chat to. His mum makes an appearance to bring us tea and then insists that I eat something as well :)

Finally hitting Gulsehir I grab some dinner, go to the internet, have a haircut and a shave then go in search of my cave!

It's a bit later than I had hoped to leave, and I feel in danger of not being able to locate anything suitable. I don't want to stay too close to any houses but I also don't have enough time to go too far from the main road...

Clearing the last hill I will be able to cross before dark my tension is released as I find a valley filled with sandstone caves. Perfect!

Finding a wonderful little place to call home for the night I set myself up, then proceed to the roof and enjoy the stars...

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