Thursday 10 July 2008

Pilgrimage from Karakaya to Omerhacili 01/07/08

I don't know how far I made it last night but I'm estimating that Kaman is between 15-25kms away. The plan is to wake at six, arrive before lunch, and spend the day catching up on blogs...

The alarm goes off, I roll onto my back and attempt to open my eyes...It doesn't happen...

The snooze goes off, I feel around, find the phone and turn the alarm off. I really have no interest in going anywhere right now... :)

My body is still recovering from the Bala/Kopukoy experience and even though I ate a reasonable amount yesterday I still didn't eat what I would call a proper meal. Now I am feeling it. I'm starving hungry but with absolutely no energy to get up and do anything about it...

Finally I manage to open my eyes, only to discover it's already 10am. Probably one of the latest sleep-ins so far...and unfortunately I'm not feeling any better for it :(

The sun is in full force and it is HOT, but with my empty stomach driving me on I get going. After 3kms the first village comes into sight and I think I'm in luck. Stopping a man on the street...

"Is there a restaurant here?"

He laughs "No, no...Kaman" and points down the road...

I consider begging for food, if Kaman is more than 20kms away I'm going to be in trouble, but I figure I might as well find out how far away Kaman actually is first...

"Twelve kilometers"

Twelve kilometers, not too bad...I can do that!

The walk is easy and apart from my hunger the body feels great. Stopping isn't an option as I know I won't get going again, so I manage the full 15kms in under two and a half hours :)

Walking into Kaman some young girls of about nine or ten spot me and race over to practice their English. I'm impressed with their level and they keep me entertained for five minutes before I have to excuse myself to find some food. As I go to leave their mother comes out on her way to work so we walk together up the street. She works at the University and as we come to her turnoff she invites me for tea...

Now, thirty seconds ago what I wanted more than anything in the whole world was to sit down in front of a big Sish kebab with an ayran and gorge myself silly...but suddenly I have visions of a cafeteria filled with cute young Uni students lining up to talk to the charming traveller who has just walked into their midst, and there is nothing I'd like more in the whole wide world than following this nice woman for tea :)

My fantasies are short lived though, the students are on holidays! :) Oh well...Still, all the Uni staff are super friendly and I'm happy to spend an hour chatting away.

Finding a restaurant in the middle of town I make myself at home, and after a big meal finally start to feel human again. Settling down with a tea the blogs start to get ticked off...

The owner departs leaving his two sons, probably aged between 15-18, to look after the place. Shortly afterwards one of them turns to me...

"OK, we are closing now"

Hmmm, a bit strange but Ok..."How much is the bill?"

They start to discuss between themselves with one wanting to charge me 20YTL and the other 30YTL...

Said in English "30 Lira"

"What, how much!?!"

By my expression he figures it must be a bit much, he comes over and writes down "25"

"No, no, no, what's the real price?"

The boy just smiles at me "No, 25 finish!"

Now bargaining is fun with adults because there is a bit of honor involved and it only works when two people are happy to agree on a fair price. I think these kids just saw an opportunity to get some pocket money out of me and want to milk it for all they can...

I know the meal should cost between 8-12 YTL so I throw 10 Lira on the table and walk out. If it the bill comes to more than that they can work it out with their father themselves :)

I track down an internet cafe, put up some blogs, then around 6pm decide to try for another 15kms.

I found a road on Googlemaps which is much more direct than the main road, but it means I won't pass any major towns for a while. One good thing in Turkey is that there are springs for the shepherds everywhere, so water isn't a problem and I just have to hope there are some supermarkets and restaurants.

Buying some batteries on the way out of town one of the customers stops me in the shop...

"Raki? Raki?" pointing down the road...

Hahaha, not a chance! "Sorry mate, not today"

No more alcohol until I've caught up on my blogs...inshaallah ;)

The walk is beautiful, but twice on the way I get attacked by vicious farm dogs. Luckily all the animals I've come across so far are scared of rocks, if I find a dog that's not I'm in big trouble!

Arriving to Omerhacili just on dark I go to track down a restaurant...

"No, no restaurants here, just three supermarkets"

Better than nothing! Town is quite busy with young men roaming around, some drinking on the street, and I don't really like the feel of the place. After buying some food I go to leave...

"No, no, no...you can't leave! Too many dogs!!! Too many dogs!"

Sighing "Yes, I know"

I try to leave anyway but suddenly everyone on the street takes an interest and comes to persuade me not to go.

I'm pretty hungry and I explain I will stay for an hour, eat dinner, then walk a few hundred meters down the road to camp...

"No, no, no, you can't....stay with me, stay with me, dogs, dogs" One of the guys pleads while making biting motions like a dog...

Yusuf has a slightly crazy look in his eye and I have to admit, I don't entirely trust them all, they seem a bit too eager for me to stay. And I also want some time to myself to write my blogs...

"Thank you, but I will keep going..."

Setting up my picnic on the footpath I eat and chat, then the locals finally convince me to stay. I decide to leave it to the Gods...If Yusuf lives with his parents I will stay, if he lives by himself I will have a drink then take my leave...

Lucky for me his mother welcomes me in with a big grin and rushes off to prepare some tea. I get a room to myself with a comfy bed and by 11pm I'm ready for sleep. definitely better than getting eaten by the dogs. Thanks guys... :)

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