Monday, 29 October 2007

Pilgrimage from Banici to Zaton 26/10/07

The Gods were smiling on us this morning…well, we had hot showers at least. That was enough!

Much to my dismay, the woman who owned the apartments loaded us up with another kilogram of mandarins. We had only just managed to get through the last lot, and we still had some pomegranates left :( But little did we know how glad we would be for them…

It had rained last night and the storm clouds were looking menacing once again. There was ominous thunder rolling down the valleys so we figured we better kit up in our rain gear. We were just in time! Before we knew it huge raindrops were pounding down around us.

Neither of us likes sticking to the highway, and even though we get a great view of the coast, the trucks and buses make it a nightmare for walking.

So the first chance we got it was straight into the hills. Steph was a bit concerned with our lack of food, but I figured being only 30kms from Dubrovnik the worst that would happen is that we would go hungry for a day. And I walk with the belief that I will get food in all the small towns I pass, even if I don’t, thinking that I will helps me get there ;)

The walk was stunning! We were truly in the Croatian countryside. The villages were tiny, and there was nothing but mountains and rocks (lots of rocks!) between them.

Steph wasn’t feeling so good, so we were making slow progress. We had two reasonable sized villages to pass before Dubrovnik where I figured we could find a restaurant. It was 15:00 before we made the first and we were both starving. We were surviving on mandarins, pomegranate and chocolate, this wasn’t helping Steph’s situation!

I had had to listen to Steph telling me the whole way that these villages weren’t going to have food. It was becoming a slight irritation! Especially as we were going so slow and wouldn’t have any other options if they didn’t.

Then, just to make it worse, the first village didn’t! It had a nightclub…yes, a nightclub! Stuck up in the middle of nowhere was a village with a nightclub, but no restaurant. I wasn’t happy! Neither was Steph ;)

The next big village was only 5kms away so we staggered on. Before arriving a road forked off leading back down to the coast. We weren’t going to make Dubrovnik today anyway, so hunger got the better of us and we headed back down.

Funnily enough, the first town we hit on the coast had no restaurants either! It was just one of those days…

Taking the shortest road to the next village, going over the headland, we started thinking we had made another big mistake. The coast road disappeared, along with any signs of civilization!

But then all ended well. Steph had been praying for a restaurant with an ocean view at the end the road. Hahahaha, I know…it wasn’t enough just to have a restaurant at this stage, it still had to have an ocean view. I would have been happy with a caravan selling shit on a stick :)

But Mary answered her prayers and we were treated to a wonderful dinner with the best wine we have tasted since getting to Croatia. It was divine! And we even had an ocean view!

But best of all, there was a big open grassy area just across the road where we could camp.

Aaaaaah, what a day!

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